Honda/Acura Tech Honda tech discussion.

Ls integra overheating

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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 10:15 AM
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Default Ls integra overheating

I have a 99 integra ls. Recently it died on me. I thought it was the battery but after few days of having a new one that one died as well. It also overheated prior to dying the second time. I pulled the alternator and found that it was bad. Installed a new one and seemed to run great. After driving it for about ten minutes it began to overheat again. It only overheats when I'm driving. It goes back to normal when I disengage the clutch/come to a stop. I periodically stopped and looked under the hood. The radiator fans were not running. Also recently had a new water pump installed. Could it be the thermostat? Cooling fan relay? I don't have a multimeter. What could it be?
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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First check the fuses. If good, the fans need to be checked. Hot wire them straight to the battery with speaker wire but be careful. The wires will get real hot, real quick if the fans are bad due to the fans having too many ohms of resistence. The fans will get real hot, real quick as well if bad. Good luck.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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only a retard uses speaker wire to test stuff.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by thegoldenchild
only a retard uses speaker wire to test stuff.

wire is wire, just as long as your just going to use it for a split second to see if the fans are working, BUT im more for certain that if your fans are not coming on, then you either have a bad temp sensor on the thermostat housing or bad fan relay by the pass side fire wall.. Mine just recently did the same thing and i have rigged a switch temorarily till i can replace the sensor and the relay..
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 05:12 PM
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Underhood Fuse relay box Fuse/relay 57 Its a 20amp check that first.
If the fuse is good and you have a test light make sure you have voltage. Its hot at all times. If thats all good move to Radiator fan switch located under dizzy. Disconect the plug it will have two wires green and black. Use a 12 gauge jumper between these two. Does the fan come one? Replace Radiator Fan Switch
If the fan doesnt come on wire your fan with proper gauge wire to battery. Does it run? If no replace fan
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Duralast / Cooling Fan Switch - Radiator Part Number:
TU197




</IMG>



Price:
$22.99



Notes:

Stamped A-93


Santech / Relay - Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Part Number:
MT0956




</IMG>



Price:
$30.99



Notes:

Located in power distribution box.







</IMG>


Price:
$45.99


Application:
With SAK/Mitsuba manufactured

Warranty:

LLT

Fan Motor
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 04:22 AM
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Well I decided to change my thermostat and radiator cap. Bled the coolant and test drove it again. Same problem. Temp gauge keeps fluctuating but engine shows no signs of overheating. Overheats when driving and sits at the sane temp at idle. Fan comes on when the ac is on but that's the only time. Could there still be air in the coolant system? If it's just the relay or the switch why would the temp be fluctuating like it is? Doesnt the fan coming on when the ac comes on rule out a bad fan motor? I'm lost.
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 05:21 AM
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My dumb ass move: I put to much rtv on my waterpump and had dried rtv beads in my pipeing...I removed the termostat and it was all sitting right behind it. It was doing the same shit, Just something to ponder on.
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 06:24 AM
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i had this problem...

it actually gets "hot" while driving but when stopped it "cools", (the exact opposite of a car that is having overheating problems) but no sings of over heating.. also had changed my alt and had gone throu two batteries, also changed the thermostat and did not help..

well i was puzzled just like you..

i decided to clean up all my grounds sand them and clean them up real good, (specially the one on your valve cover) then i got in my car drove and it was fine.. so try that im not saying the same exact thing is happening to you, but that fixed my problem and the symptoms are pretty much the same.. keep us updated..
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 07:58 AM
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there are 2 temperature sensors, one for your gauge and one for the fan. You may have to look outside the engine for the reason/cause of your high speed overheating problem. High speed overheating problems can be and often are related to the radiator. The faster/harder and engine works the more heat it makes. A radiator that has internal flow restriction or deposits coating the coolant tubes will not be able to remove heat from the coolant efficiently enough to prevent overheating. Take a look at the A/C condenser (which looks like a radiator) mounted in front of the radiator. If the cooling fins on the condenser are bent or filled with debris, like leaves, bugs, etc., the air will not flow through and pass over the radiator’s cooling fins. Also look between the radiator and A/C condenser, debris can collect in-between the two and interfere with air flow. Keep in mind, the harder an engine works the harder a radiators job is. High speed overheating problems are a good indicator of an inadequate radiator.
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