stleger184634

to start off my car is a:

1997 Honda Prelude Base
I have swapped in a fresh f20b from tiger japanese ltd.
I am using a new h22a dizz w/ external coil

For future questions the car ran before the swap but had a blown motor

My problem is as follows:

When the swap was completed I had spark but my fuel pump did not work so I ran a few test found out my main relay was not putting power to the fuel pump even though a continuity test on the main relay said that it should be in perfect working condition so I put it back in and then not only did the fuel pump still not work I had lost spark. So i ran a few more continuity test checked my grounds on my main relay still nothing so i just replaced it with a new one since there fairly cheap. Now my fuel pump works but still no spark + injectors are not pumping fuel but fuel pump works perfect and there is power to the diz and injectors so i checked the coil its fine. But just to be sure I took my dizz apart and tested it and its fine( should be since its new but you never know) when i have the stock 97 ECM hook'd up it shows no codes on my scanner. So after 2 weeks of trouble shooting everything i can possibly think of checking all wires for shorts more continuity test on everything that is related to spark + injectors pumping still nothing everything test out 100% fine.

Also every few times i try to crank the car my new main relay clicks very loud and very fast but will stop when i hook up a obd2 scanner????


So now that i can find nothing wrong with it i realized that this year prelude has a honda immobilizer that may of been tripped when i disconnected the stock ECM and my car has all the symptoms of having it tripped. There is no spark and injectors dont work even though the engine is turning over and when i put my key in after i try to crank it, it is on for 2 seconds then when i take it out it blinks 5 times which from what i have read means the immobilizer is active even though i have the original black key i do not have the red dot key though. But i thought no worries because i have a obd2 to obd1 conversion with a minty fresh p13. But even with the obd1 conversion on which again from what i have read should disable the imobilizer it still jsut cranks with no spark and injectors are dead still and the key light still comes on for 2 secs then blinks 5 times(which i dont quite understand because my friends gf has a 99 accord and hers does the same thing but it runs)

I need help this is the longest it has ever taken me to get a swap to run, granted i will admit i have never owned a prelude only civics 97 and down and i have done alot of swaps and i am very familiar with trouble shooting on hondas. Also i have my roommate helping me and he stumped also and he is the most knowledgeable person i have ever met when it comes to hondas and wiring between both of us we can find nothing wrong with this car if anyone knows anything that could help me i would greatly appreciate it. I am calling honda tomm to get the reset code for my immobilizer but if that does not work i dont know wtf to do.

quietflight6787

Wow this sounds wild, Not sure but did you check all the grounds, not just main relay grouns, like cu grounds and such too? just a long shot man

1nycelude

check the ground that connects to the thermistat housing that controls a lot including the fuel pump there should be like 4 wires grounded to the same bolt. also obd1 and obd2 have different injectors, so that might be why the injectors are not firing for the obd1 ecu. im pretty sure that the f20b does not require a resistor box as the same as the 5th gen preludes. but the 4th gen obd1 prelude (p13) requires the use of resistors. dont know if this helps but it is all i can see so far.

custom240sx

The resistor box has nothing to do with the actual motor, it has to do with the injectors being used and the ecu being used. Which ecu did you have in their originally running the car? Take the injectors off the blown motor and put them on the new motor and try that.

1nycelude

also make sure that on the wiring harness there is a plug on the drivers side by the shock tower it needs to have a cap on it. if it doesnt it will not allow it to start

custom240sx

If your talking about the jumper for the injectors that bypasses the resistor box it may or may not be there...that is what we are trying to figure out.

By the way you can multimeter the injectors and see what ohm load they are to see if they are compatible with the ecu being ran.