Ok, I posted a similar question earlier but I was tired and retarded and called the head studs, bolts. Sorry, my bad. Now with that out of the way...

First question, should I use ARP or Golden Eagle head studs? I see some people like the GEs but there are a bunch of ARPs floating around, possibly for a few reasons. GEs are relatively new so that could be one reason. OR, ARPs could be that much better. I am leaning towards GEs being newer but so am I, lol. Anyhow, GE or ARP? And are the B18C1 studs the same as the B18C5 studs? I know the blocks are identical but the heads are different. Does the head make a difference in which studs to use? GEs website doesn't clear it up enough for me, it just says B18C, no 1 or 5 designation. I am looking for some personal experience with both, if possible.

Second question, are main studs necessary, or are the main bolts reused? Is it a good idea to reuse them and if not, GE and ARP both make them but which ones are better. Again, I am looking for opinions from personal experiences, if possible. If no personal experience is available, I am just going to reuse them and just use head studs.

Last question about thread lock, is it necessary? I am not talking about the red stuff, I am talking about the green or blue stuff, you know, the lower strength Permatex stuff. Keep in mind that this block is going to last for a while and is being freshened up 100% with all new everything. So, long story short, I don't want it falling apart at 30,000 miles; I want it to hold together and not come undone till I take it apart in a few years. Sorry for my rambling, I am still tired and retarded, lol.

 

ARP headstuds, work awsome, i've never had a head lift with those.
The b18c1 and b18c5 are identical, part#- 208-4303
Main bolts can be reused, but if you have the money... why not.
ALLWAYS use the ARP assembly lube, at the base, and on the nut.

 

go with the Ge studs they cost cheaper and are made the same minus the treatment at the threads,u can buy mainbolts only if you feel that the ones u have are not worth useing,i have never had a problems with stock.and use the lube on the block threads and i use a drop or Red locker on the nut nothing wrong with that,make sure all your specs are correct,and make sure the studs go all the way down the block blow them with highpressure air if need be

 

1. either stud is fine. i've used both with no problems
2. blue locker for non-lubed critical bolts (flywheel, pressure plate)
3. main bolts can be reused as long as they've never been over torqued and stretched.
4. and "tired" and "retarded" posters are OK, but be sure not to assemble a motor yourself if you are tired, or if you are retarded, and especially if you are both.

 

LOL! Yeah, when I get tired I become retarded so I should assemble my motor after a good nights rest!

But yeah, thanks for all the info, it's greatly appreciated. It looked like to me that the motor was never taken apart so I'm sure the main bolts are still good but I'm gonna mic them to make sure. I think the chiltons manual has some specifications, if not I'll buy a new one and compare the old ones to it.

 

well you dont really need to mic them, mains are not like headbolts,the reason you dont reuse headbolts is cause they are understress,mains are not cause they are stationary your crank does not move as it spins"well it should not" so that is why its on to reuse them

 

Well, that makes perfect sense. Thanks.

 

OEM head bolts are reusable, and are not torque to yield throwaways. As long as they have not been overtorqued, they are good for reuse. This is clear in the Helms and factory manuals, which do not mention TTY degree specs for the bolts or note that bolts should be replaced. Though one assumes the manuals are working on the assumption the engines being worked on were factory assembled or otherwise assembled to spec.

It is important to note, because a lot of guys will tell you Honda head bolts must be thrown away once removed. I think this is due to the use of OEM TTY bolts on a lot of other engines with aluminum heads (Ford, Chevy, Europeans...).

The best way to see if an OEM bolt has been overtorqued is to measure it against a new one. If it has been troqued beyond 75 percent or so of its yield, it may not spring back to the OEM length, and will be just a bit longer. If so, don't reuse it.

This also can happen to ARP studs. Once any bolt or stud is stretched too close to its yeild limit, it may lose its elasticity.

In addition to stretch due to overloading, look for torsional stress. If you think someone has rebuilt the motor, there is a chance the bolts were torqued without the threads being lubed, or with dirty threads, which could cause twisting or torsional stretching.

I use a magnifying glass to look up and down a bolt for signs of twisting, which shows up in the grain on the surface. When a head bolt breaks, it is usually due to a torsional stress twisting it in half.

 

I have seen honda head bolts reused before, like on d-series motors and other lesser Honda motors. I've reused the head bolts on my b16a, after I measured them with a micrometer. So I know where you're coming from but this new motor is getting head studs, no ifs, ands, or buts about it, LOL.

 

i have also reused headbolts many times,but if replaceing them of course studs are even cheaper and stronger way to go..there are acouple bolts i dont like to reuse like the tensionor bolt i like to replace thos when i can,and oil drain bolt,mostly to have new threads and help on stripping