ITR sway bar on a EK????
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Gibbon
A beaks kit isnt neccesary. The 6G civic subframe does not tend to rip as easily as the 5G. The subframe of the 6G civics is flatter while the 5G civic is stepped. This step puts more stress on the furthest (lowest from the actual swaybar) bolt/nut. Im not saying yours wont rip out it might eventually but chances are it wont rip out as quickly as it woud if you were putting it on a 5G civic. The other problem with the subframe possibly tearing is the nut that is tack welded on the back of the subframe is so damned small you end up with a ton of pressure and the tack welded nut wants to come through the subframe because there is such a huge amount of force distributed over a small surface area. To solve this problem you can take a chisel and hammer and knock the tack welded nut off the back of the subframe. Once this is done you can put large washers on the back side of the subframe and then put the bolt through the subframe and washer and put teh nut on now the force is distributed over a larger surface area because of the washer. If you want some assitance putting the bar on let me know Ill probably be available this weekend.
Robster
A beaks kit isnt neccesary. The 6G civic subframe does not tend to rip as easily as the 5G. The subframe of the 6G civics is flatter while the 5G civic is stepped. This step puts more stress on the furthest (lowest from the actual swaybar) bolt/nut. Im not saying yours wont rip out it might eventually but chances are it wont rip out as quickly as it woud if you were putting it on a 5G civic. The other problem with the subframe possibly tearing is the nut that is tack welded on the back of the subframe is so damned small you end up with a ton of pressure and the tack welded nut wants to come through the subframe because there is such a huge amount of force distributed over a small surface area. To solve this problem you can take a chisel and hammer and knock the tack welded nut off the back of the subframe. Once this is done you can put large washers on the back side of the subframe and then put the bolt through the subframe and washer and put teh nut on now the force is distributed over a larger surface area because of the washer. If you want some assitance putting the bar on let me know Ill probably be available this weekend.
Robster
twisted logic
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Originally posted by "Someone"
Originally posted by Robster
Gibbon
A beaks kit isnt neccesary. The 6G civic subframe does not tend to rip as easily as the 5G. The subframe of the 6G civics is flatter while the 5G civic is stepped. This step puts more stress on the furthest (lowest from the actual swaybar) bolt/nut. Im not saying yours wont rip out it might eventually but chances are it wont rip out as quickly as it woud if you were putting it on a 5G civic. The other problem with the subframe possibly tearing is the nut that is tack welded on the back of the subframe is so damned small you end up with a ton of pressure and the tack welded nut wants to come through the subframe because there is such a huge amount of force distributed over a small surface area. To solve this problem you can take a chisel and hammer and knock the tack welded nut off the back of the subframe. Once this is done you can put large washers on the back side of the subframe and then put the bolt through the subframe and washer and put teh nut on now the force is distributed over a larger surface area because of the washer. If you want some assitance putting the bar on let me know Ill probably be available this weekend.
Robster
Originally posted by Robster
Gibbon
A beaks kit isnt neccesary. The 6G civic subframe does not tend to rip as easily as the 5G. The subframe of the 6G civics is flatter while the 5G civic is stepped. This step puts more stress on the furthest (lowest from the actual swaybar) bolt/nut. Im not saying yours wont rip out it might eventually but chances are it wont rip out as quickly as it woud if you were putting it on a 5G civic. The other problem with the subframe possibly tearing is the nut that is tack welded on the back of the subframe is so damned small you end up with a ton of pressure and the tack welded nut wants to come through the subframe because there is such a huge amount of force distributed over a small surface area. To solve this problem you can take a chisel and hammer and knock the tack welded nut off the back of the subframe. Once this is done you can put large washers on the back side of the subframe and then put the bolt through the subframe and washer and put teh nut on now the force is distributed over a larger surface area because of the washer. If you want some assitance putting the bar on let me know Ill probably be available this weekend.
Robster
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I dont know Rob...Ive seen some nasty tear outs on 6th gens from the ITR rear anti-roll bar. If youre going to go with a bar that thick AND plan on actually putting it to use (ie: autocross) then Id beef up the subframe.
twisted logic
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Originally posted by "Someone"
Originally posted by Bill
I dont know Rob...Ive seen some nasty tear outs on 6th gens from the ITR rear anti-roll bar. If youre going to go with a bar that thick AND plan on actually putting it to use (ie: autocross) then Id beef up the subframe.
Originally posted by Bill
I dont know Rob...Ive seen some nasty tear outs on 6th gens from the ITR rear anti-roll bar. If youre going to go with a bar that thick AND plan on actually putting it to use (ie: autocross) then Id beef up the subframe.
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well the suspension is constantly working so youre always going to be putting the mounting points under stress. Id make sure to add some type of reinforcement plate when installing it and then not worry anymore about it. There are a few companies that produce them or you can just go and fabricate your own.
