ls/vtec turbo build
ls/vtec turbo build
I have been thinkin of doing an ls/vtec build and i need every ones help and little here and there tricks to help the build this is wat i been thinkin about doing and this build is for BOOST ..for the head.. b16a2 pnp head angle valve job, ferrea oversize valves, stems, and guides. port flow springs, retainers
itr or ctr cams and gears victor x intake manifold hondata intake manifold gasket ..the block b18a1 on stock bore hone and hot tanked polished cranks eagle rods wiseco pistons dont know if i want to 10.5.1 or 9.5.1 i really want to do a 10 comp arp head studs arp rod bolts block guard i really need your info on the guard...endyn oil pump block girdle the tranny is gsr 1st,2nd and ls 3rd,4th,5th and L.S.D...like i said before if there's and tricks that could better my ls/vtec build please help out
itr or ctr cams and gears victor x intake manifold hondata intake manifold gasket ..the block b18a1 on stock bore hone and hot tanked polished cranks eagle rods wiseco pistons dont know if i want to 10.5.1 or 9.5.1 i really want to do a 10 comp arp head studs arp rod bolts block guard i really need your info on the guard...endyn oil pump block girdle the tranny is gsr 1st,2nd and ls 3rd,4th,5th and L.S.D...like i said before if there's and tricks that could better my ls/vtec build please help out
sounds like a good build man keep us posted on how it comes
__________________
SQUADRON ONE
NIKON D60 / 18-55 VR / 55-200 VR /
1994-integra ls j fronted on boost 348whp
1996-integra ls-vtekkk dd
SQUADRON ONE
NIKON D60 / 18-55 VR / 55-200 VR /
1994-integra ls j fronted on boost 348whp
1996-integra ls-vtekkk dd
I would go 9.5:1 compression, since your using a beefy crank and rod combo, running alot of boost will be possible. 10.5 would be nice for lower boost but who wants lower boost?
Also instead of the CTR or ITR cams I would go with a more boost specific cam with a shorter duration but higher lift.
Also instead of the CTR or ITR cams I would go with a more boost specific cam with a shorter duration but higher lift.
going turbo? stock cams.
by increasing lift w/o increasing duration the ramp speed on the cam becomes too high and controling valve float becomes VERY difficult.
1. you must increase spring strength
2. if you increase spring strength too little you will still get valve float
3 if you increase spring strength too much you will put too much stress on your valvetrain and destroy your new cams =(
unless you are planning a complete head buildup with all new parts, stock cams are fine for turbo
EDIT: reread post, you are going for a complete head build, get a turbo specific cam like todd said
by increasing lift w/o increasing duration the ramp speed on the cam becomes too high and controling valve float becomes VERY difficult.
1. you must increase spring strength
2. if you increase spring strength too little you will still get valve float
3 if you increase spring strength too much you will put too much stress on your valvetrain and destroy your new cams =(
unless you are planning a complete head buildup with all new parts, stock cams are fine for turbo
EDIT: reread post, you are going for a complete head build, get a turbo specific cam like todd said
ya buy those turbo specific cams and watch your power dwindle ...
The most power i've ever seen made was with a set of All-Motor cams . Skunk2 Pro 1's actually .
ITR/CTR is a good start you can run them with stock valvetrain with an appropriate revlimiter on a mild amount of boost but over 10psi or reving past 8200 or so I would recomend a dual spring/retainer setup ..
Those ITR/CTR cams will be good for any setup making up to around 550-600 ish past that look into cams .
I've used Skunk2 STage 1's and 2's with good results on stock block built head builds always pick up 20-30 over a set of ITR's
The most power i've ever seen made was with a set of All-Motor cams . Skunk2 Pro 1's actually .
ITR/CTR is a good start you can run them with stock valvetrain with an appropriate revlimiter on a mild amount of boost but over 10psi or reving past 8200 or so I would recomend a dual spring/retainer setup ..
Those ITR/CTR cams will be good for any setup making up to around 550-600 ish past that look into cams .
I've used Skunk2 STage 1's and 2's with good results on stock block built head builds always pick up 20-30 over a set of ITR's
__________________
R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup
Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped
R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup
Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped
just go LS turbo and not LS vtec turbo.
and the reason you dont use all motor cams on a turbo car is because of the pressure difference between the intake and exhaust, it MIGHT give you good power gains, or you might just start spitting exhaust into your intake (bad) or fresh air with fuel into your exhaust (worse)
all motor cams are designed to use a scavenging effect of the exhaust to pull air into the cylinder, this is created by having lots of overlap between the exhaust and intake lobes on the cam.
if you have an un-knowable, variable pressure on the exhaust side, and a knowable, but still variable pressure on the intake side, you cannot determine which side will have the higher pressure at any given time. if your exhaust pressure is higher than the intake pressure, then exhaust shoots back out the cylinder, up the charge side. (obviously bad)
if the intake pressure is too high, and exhaust pressure is too low, then the air+fuel mixture might be pumped through the cylinder, directly into the exhaust, this causes your motor itself to run lean (very bad) and the unburnt air/fuel mixture in the exhaust can quickly destroy your turbo at the worst, or at the least increase exhaust temperatures to an unsafe level.
stock cams have only a small amount of overlap, which prevents this.
turbo cams are designed for higher lift like a high performance all motor cam, but without the extra overlap, like i mentioned before, this causes an extra-high ramp speed. with a properly built head this is no problem.
and the reason you dont use all motor cams on a turbo car is because of the pressure difference between the intake and exhaust, it MIGHT give you good power gains, or you might just start spitting exhaust into your intake (bad) or fresh air with fuel into your exhaust (worse)
all motor cams are designed to use a scavenging effect of the exhaust to pull air into the cylinder, this is created by having lots of overlap between the exhaust and intake lobes on the cam.
if you have an un-knowable, variable pressure on the exhaust side, and a knowable, but still variable pressure on the intake side, you cannot determine which side will have the higher pressure at any given time. if your exhaust pressure is higher than the intake pressure, then exhaust shoots back out the cylinder, up the charge side. (obviously bad)
if the intake pressure is too high, and exhaust pressure is too low, then the air+fuel mixture might be pumped through the cylinder, directly into the exhaust, this causes your motor itself to run lean (very bad) and the unburnt air/fuel mixture in the exhaust can quickly destroy your turbo at the worst, or at the least increase exhaust temperatures to an unsafe level.
stock cams have only a small amount of overlap, which prevents this.
turbo cams are designed for higher lift like a high performance all motor cam, but without the extra overlap, like i mentioned before, this causes an extra-high ramp speed. with a properly built head this is no problem.
Last edited by D15superman; 10-18-2008 at 04:06 PM.