D15superman

i got an ef hatch "project car" recently: d16z6 motor, small turbo, obd0 ecu, VAFC, and a dizzy from an ls.

the car boosted fine, but definatly had some fuel/ignition problems under load. i had to take the car on a short trip and it lost all power while driving.
coasted to a parking lot where it sounded like it was running on 2 or 3 cylinders, just chugging like h3ll.

shut it down and started looking around for problems, and i thought i found it in the dizzy: the rotor (and its pinion) was loose and broken.

i decided to take the opprotunity to convert to OBD1, so i got the correct dizzy for the motor, a chipped P28 ecu programmed for boost + the 450 dsm injectors, an obd0-obd1 conversion harness, an obd0-1 dizzy conversion harness, and the 4 wire o2 sensor.

installed it all, soldered all the connections.

car still wont start.

the fuel pump is working (walbro 255, i can hear it running)
there is fuel in the tank
the fuel pump relay clicks 3 times like its supposed to
the CEL pops on for 2 secs then turns off witht he key in the on position
starter works fine
battery is fine
im getting spark on all 4 cylinders

the only things left to check are the VAFC, and the injectors.



ill pull all the injectors and test each one of them (and their wires) if the injectors are all good, and its just the wires not getting signal (what i suspect the problem is)
im just going to remove the VAFC but i dont know how, i didnt install it in the first place.


so my question: anyone have a diagram for wiring the original VAFC to an EF harness? or can anyone give me a step-by-step removal process?

thanks

CBURKE

I had to do this as well and it can make the car not start. You can A. put all the settings to 0 kinda like it's not even there. Or B. just follow the wire colors. Each wire that is tapped into has a friend on the other side, same color. Just solder them back together.

other then that I can't think of what it would be. Maybe put the old injectors back in? Are you sill running an injector box?

D15superman

i zerod out he vafc settings, the car still didnt start.my guess is that something in the obd0-obd1 conversion changes the way vafc needs to be wired in /shrugthis VAFC is ghetto-wired in, its all a huge mess.... im dreading removing it and repairing the wires.im at work right now, but when i get home ill see what happens

JoKiE crx4294

might have cracked some ringlands, Due to the afc hack and/or not being tuned.

CBURKE

NO, it never started.

I am thinking if you have the resister box still and the ecu is obd1 it does not look for that. You have peak and hold injectors in there. Obd1 is not peak and hold. Trying putting your stock oned in just to see if it starts.

JoKiE crx4294

He said it lost power while driving.

D15superman

when the car lost power while driving (and subsequently refused to start) it was obd0, dsm 450 injectors with the resistor box and vafc hack

now its obd1, dsm 450 injectors with resistor box and im about to remove the vafc hack.

so dsm 450s wont work on obd1? i dont have the stock injectors but the eprom in my ecu is set for 450cc's

if they wont work does anyone know what 450 injectors will?

89civrex

i had that same problem on my ls boost
i was driving like a granma and just lost all power
turned out it ran lean as hell and burned holes in my valves
do a comp test
you might have burned up your valves
no fuel and your cylinders get real hot and something has to give
my set up was a bass map from vega at only 6 lbs
it would start to "break up"
just a thought check your compression before you start buying parts that wont work

also about your 450's junk them buy some RC's
you can RC 310 on a stock ecu anything bigger than that you need a tune
i had to call RC to find that out

D15superman

that was my first instinct when it happened, that i blew a head gasket or otherwise lost compression.

i was driving, as you said, like a grandma, but at the time the vafc was working properly and the obd0 ecu had a basemap chip. with VAFC set to -40% on those 450s and , the basemap set for 8 to 10 psi. i was only at 7psi (even lower when it happened, i wasnt revving high enough to get full boost)

additionally, the crank is not hand turnable (evidence of compression) and cranking the motor while trying to start sounds normal (not extra fast, which is what happens when you lose compression)

i DO plan on getting a compression test done, its just a matter of my bro getting the kit out of storage- however evidence suggests that the car should at least be able to start with the existing compression

89civrex

true i drove mine home on two cyl.