I appreciate you are a small guy trying to make a few bucks......but there are some things you could at least post up. For starters....material, size of material, welding procress, jigging, better pictures of the welds, weight, etc. Not to mention I don't know how this not-so-close-to-being-tech thread that turned into a forsale thread in the tech forum is flying, but thats up to the mods.

 

but its nice to not have the "my car won't start!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" threads

but a way you can test it is jack up one corner of the car, and when the opposing tire lifts, measure the difference from the ground to your pickup points, if it does anything its bound to do it there, or to be a bit more accurate, jack it up on the LCA

 

Yeah, we don't really have the equipment to measure the tortional resistance of the frame before and after

 

I will try that.............

I am using 3/16 end plates, mild steal tube at 16 gauge, welding MIG until I have the money for a TIG. Does this help?....and it is not a for sale thread, I have not put up any price's at all!!! I am just showing some work I will be doing.

Thanks
Chris

 

Somewhat....

Sq. Tube outside Dim:________________
Sq. Tube wall thickness:_____________
Wt. of final assy Sq Tube:_____________
Wt. of final assy round tube:____________
O.D. of round tube:______________
How you jig it up:_______________
Mild Steel of XXXXX specification
Here are the better pictures:______________

It's torsional FYI and you are probably wanting to calculate/measure torsional rigidity and not resistance for sus parts here. And if you don't have the equipment, get creative or pay someone. But then again, this is TR and Honda owners, so people will probably buy it with out any real testing results.

 

I will do that just for you…………
Just for the record I am not an Engineer. I had an idea that in theory should work. Taking a strut bar and a trunk bar then tying them together will do something. If you think it will not please LMK how……. It has already been proven that a strut bar works and the TypeR use's a trunk bar from the factory, so I am thinking Honda had some type of reason for doing that.
I am taking it to a guy to have everything checked and certified. Maybe he can give me all the info you are asking. My welds are fine, and hell I could just grind them all smooth and you would never seen them. But I will get better pics.

All I can tell you at this time is:
1” 16 gauge mild steal Round/Square tube
I use a laser cut 3/16ich mild steal plate for the ends and the mounting of the bar. Right now I am working on a JIG. I have only been able to make them out of the car. I am working on a JIG now seeing is not all Honda/Acura will have the same distance from strut to trunk, but they are the same from strut to strut and frame bolt to frame bolt. If you like you are more then welcome to come check it out. I tack weld it all together in the car and then pull it out and weld the rest. This was the first one I made, so they should get better.


Wight is not much at all, and I am pretty sure that is due to the 16 gauge steal. It's funny I don't see anything on Password JDM's website that says what there bars wight is. ummmmm

Thanks
Chris

 

You're right, posting after midnight means no spell checker for me.

I don't see how you could "get creative" to measure the torsional rigidity of a chassis. The physics equations for doing so are not something most people have immediate access to.

 

^^^ very true...........
But I will try and do what jlude90 said. This may work..........

I am going to have to set up a road course lol, let people test it out............

 

ill be the dummy driver for the road course !!

 

lol, someone will have to be!!!