Civic rear disc brake conversion
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Hey guys
I have a 1990 Honda Civic DX 4 door. It has rear drum brakes right now. I have sourced the front and rear brakes from a wrecked 1990 Acura Integra.
For the rear discs to work on my car I had to also get fromthe Integra the rear traling arms spindles and e-brakes cables. I also took the sway bar as well
Anyways my question is what I should use for a master cylinder to make these brakes behave correctly. I want the front/rear brake bias to be correct. I already removed the proportioning valve from the Integra as I feel it is set up differently than the Civic.
As for the master cylinder the one from the Integra will not bolt onto the Civic b/c the bolt holes are inverted and do not line up. The Integra and Civic MCs look the same at first glance. They both have a 15/16 bore. However the Integra MC has a larger fluid reservoir and cap than the Civic.
Questions:
1. Is the proportioning valve between the Civic and the Integra?
2. Should I get a MC from a 1988-1991 Civic Si or CRX Si...anything with rear disc brakes?
Thanks for your help
I have a 1990 Honda Civic DX 4 door. It has rear drum brakes right now. I have sourced the front and rear brakes from a wrecked 1990 Acura Integra.
For the rear discs to work on my car I had to also get fromthe Integra the rear traling arms spindles and e-brakes cables. I also took the sway bar as well
Anyways my question is what I should use for a master cylinder to make these brakes behave correctly. I want the front/rear brake bias to be correct. I already removed the proportioning valve from the Integra as I feel it is set up differently than the Civic.
As for the master cylinder the one from the Integra will not bolt onto the Civic b/c the bolt holes are inverted and do not line up. The Integra and Civic MCs look the same at first glance. They both have a 15/16 bore. However the Integra MC has a larger fluid reservoir and cap than the Civic.
Questions:
1. Is the proportioning valve between the Civic and the Integra?
2. Should I get a MC from a 1988-1991 Civic Si or CRX Si...anything with rear disc brakes?
Thanks for your help
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The proportioning valves between cars with 4discs and those with 2discs are different. You did right by taking the teg prop valve. You might also want to check that the clutch line fitting is the same size for both master cylinders. I know that when swapping a 3rd gen teg MC into a 5th gen civic that the fittings differ in size and location.
As for the MC usually youve gotta replace the booster since the two wont line up right otherwise. Even if you got the MC off of an Si it might be using a different booster.
As for the MC usually youve gotta replace the booster since the two wont line up right otherwise. Even if you got the MC off of an Si it might be using a different booster.
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Thanks for your reply Bill. What clutch line fitting are you referring to? I have a cable clutch if it matters. You are right about the brake booster needing to be changed to make the MC work. The Integra and Civic MCs look the same in terms of the aluminum housing but the fluid reservoir on the Integra is larger. In order to use the Integra MC I would also need the Integra brake boost since the bolt holes are 180 degrees out of phase.
1. Would it be worth it to use the Integra MC? Like I said before both MCs have 15/16 stamped on them. So I know they are the same size as far as their bore areas. I am just wondering if the larger fluid capacity of the Teg MC would give me any braking advantage.
2. My theory is that the only thing I need from the Teg here is the proportioning valve and that I can keep the Civic MC since they both have the same bore and piston area.
Please any advice here is welcome.
1. Would it be worth it to use the Integra MC? Like I said before both MCs have 15/16 stamped on them. So I know they are the same size as far as their bore areas. I am just wondering if the larger fluid capacity of the Teg MC would give me any braking advantage.
2. My theory is that the only thing I need from the Teg here is the proportioning valve and that I can keep the Civic MC since they both have the same bore and piston area.
Please any advice here is welcome.
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God...dont mind me I dont know why I said clutch line I meant brake line. hahahaha 
Anyways what I mean is that the BRAKE line fittings may be different as well and youll have to cut off the stock fitting put on the teg fitting and then reflare the line. Its a pain in the ass.
If they have the same bore than theres no sense in changing them out just for a larger reservoir. Hell you could just swap the reservoir if youre in the mood. Still though I would have thought that the teg MC would be larger. You sure the stamping is the same on both? Doesnt make sense.
Anyways what I mean is that the BRAKE line fittings may be different as well and youll have to cut off the stock fitting put on the teg fitting and then reflare the line. Its a pain in the ass.
If they have the same bore than theres no sense in changing them out just for a larger reservoir. Hell you could just swap the reservoir if youre in the mood. Still though I would have thought that the teg MC would be larger. You sure the stamping is the same on both? Doesnt make sense.
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Hey Bill
The brake line fittings are in the exact same location on both MCs.
I am *positive* that both MCs say Nissin 15/16 on them. The *only* difference between the two is the mounting bolt location and the size of the reservoir.
Is there any advantage to having a larger reservoir all other things being equal? I dont think so myself.
How do you test the MC to make sure it is working properly? I dont have my FSM with me right now. I remember reading about pressing the pedal and looking for a certain felling or result...like checking for the airtightness of the brake booster. Even after my last brake overhaul (with drum brakes) with a good bleeding the brakes really are not as touchy as I would like them. Does this mean the MC is the culprit?
If the Civic MC needs to be replaced anyways then I will just buy a new Civic MC and I will have a completely new upgraded braking system. What do you think?
The brake line fittings are in the exact same location on both MCs.
I am *positive* that both MCs say Nissin 15/16 on them. The *only* difference between the two is the mounting bolt location and the size of the reservoir.
Is there any advantage to having a larger reservoir all other things being equal? I dont think so myself.
How do you test the MC to make sure it is working properly? I dont have my FSM with me right now. I remember reading about pressing the pedal and looking for a certain felling or result...like checking for the airtightness of the brake booster. Even after my last brake overhaul (with drum brakes) with a good bleeding the brakes really are not as touchy as I would like them. Does this mean the MC is the culprit?
If the Civic MC needs to be replaced anyways then I will just buy a new Civic MC and I will have a completely new upgraded braking system. What do you think?
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Then perhaps they are the same thing I just find it out that they would have the same part number but mount differently. Odd.
There is no advantage to having a larger reservoir unless youve got a leak somewhere in the system in which case a jug of brake fluid would be nice.
I whole heartedly recommend getting a set of speed bleeders for your setup or if you have an aircompressor a brake bleeder kit. Actually I just saw in the store the other day a hand held brake bleeder kit that doesnt require a compressor and only costs about 20 bucks. Anyways back to speed bleeders. Basically theyre little check valves that you install in place of the stock bleeder screws. It turns the whole job into a one man operation since you dont have to have someone opening and closing the screw while you depress the pedal.
To check the MC just look at the general condition of it and see if there are any visible leaks. The only way youll know that the MC is about to go out other than by pulling it is that the pedal will start to sink a little more than normal. Im assuming you drive the car enough to be familiar with how the braking feels so if the pedal seems to drop faster than before then chances are youve got a leak in the MC.
When you change out the MC remember to bench bleed it or else itll be a pain in the ass to get all the air out of it when its in the car.
There is no advantage to having a larger reservoir unless youve got a leak somewhere in the system in which case a jug of brake fluid would be nice.
I whole heartedly recommend getting a set of speed bleeders for your setup or if you have an aircompressor a brake bleeder kit. Actually I just saw in the store the other day a hand held brake bleeder kit that doesnt require a compressor and only costs about 20 bucks. Anyways back to speed bleeders. Basically theyre little check valves that you install in place of the stock bleeder screws. It turns the whole job into a one man operation since you dont have to have someone opening and closing the screw while you depress the pedal.
To check the MC just look at the general condition of it and see if there are any visible leaks. The only way youll know that the MC is about to go out other than by pulling it is that the pedal will start to sink a little more than normal. Im assuming you drive the car enough to be familiar with how the braking feels so if the pedal seems to drop faster than before then chances are youve got a leak in the MC.
When you change out the MC remember to bench bleed it or else itll be a pain in the ass to get all the air out of it when its in the car.
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M4|\| B1ll 0h m4573|2 15 4ll 0v3|2 7h15 0|\|3. L37 m3 jump 1|\| \^/17h 50m3 3><p3|213|\|c3.
0|\| my f14|\|c35 C|2>< \^/3 4dd3d 1|\|73g|24 |234|2 d15c 90-91 b|24k3 p|20p0|2710|\|1|\|g v4lv3 51|2 f|20|\|7 b|24k35 1|\|73g|24 MC 4|\|d b|24k3 b00573|2.
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70 7357 y0u|2 MC 51mply 7u|2|\| 7h3 c4|2 0|\| 4|\|d d3p|2355 7h3 b|24k35 fully. 1f 7h3 b|24k3 p3d4l 5l0\^/ly 51|\|k5 70 7h3 fl00|2 7h3 MC |\|33d5 4 |23bu1ld (75 buck5 f|20m |\|4P4). 1f y0u \^/4|\|7 70 fu|27h3|2 1|\|c|23453 y0u|2 b|24k1|\|g 3ff3c71v3|\|355 u53 qu4l17y D074 flu1d 4|\|d 7h|20\^/ 1|\| 50m3 5741|\|l355 l1|\|35. 7h47 p3d4l \^/1ll |\|3v3|2 f33l 4|\|y f1|2m3|2 4f73|2 7h47.
H0p3 7h15 h3lp5...4|\|d g00d luck.
0|\| my f14|\|c35 C|2>< \^/3 4dd3d 1|\|73g|24 |234|2 d15c 90-91 b|24k3 p|20p0|2710|\|1|\|g v4lv3 51|2 f|20|\|7 b|24k35 1|\|73g|24 MC 4|\|d b|24k3 b00573|2.
7h3 4dv4|\|74g3 0f 4 l4|2g3|2 MC 15 b3773|2 b|24k3 f33l 4|\|d 1f y0u 4|23 |204d |24c1|\|g 7h3 l4|2g3|2 |2353|2v3 74|\|k \^/1ll 4ll0\^/ y0u|2 flu1d5 70 |23m41|\| c00l3|2 l0|\|g3|2. K33p 1|\| m1|\|d 7h0ugh 1f y0u u53 7h3 1|\|73g|24 MC y0u H4V3 70 u53 7h3 b|24k3 b00573|2 f|20m 7h3 1|\|73g|24 45 \^/3ll. D0|\|7 m1>< 4|\|d m47ch 317h3|2. 4l50 1f 7h3 MC 15 f|20m 4|\| 4B5 c4|2 17 \^/1ll b3 5l1gh7ly d1ff3|23|\|7 bu7 y0u c4|\| m4k3 17 \^/0|2k.
70 7357 y0u|2 MC 51mply 7u|2|\| 7h3 c4|2 0|\| 4|\|d d3p|2355 7h3 b|24k35 fully. 1f 7h3 b|24k3 p3d4l 5l0\^/ly 51|\|k5 70 7h3 fl00|2 7h3 MC |\|33d5 4 |23bu1ld (75 buck5 f|20m |\|4P4). 1f y0u \^/4|\|7 70 fu|27h3|2 1|\|c|23453 y0u|2 b|24k1|\|g 3ff3c71v3|\|355 u53 qu4l17y D074 flu1d 4|\|d 7h|20\^/ 1|\| 50m3 5741|\|l355 l1|\|35. 7h47 p3d4l \^/1ll |\|3v3|2 f33l 4|\|y f1|2m3|2 4f73|2 7h47.
H0p3 7h15 h3lp5...4|\|d g00d luck.
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Originally posted by "Someone"
Originally posted by Mr Self Destruct
Man Bill oh master is all over this one. Let me jump in with some experience.
Originally posted by Mr Self Destruct
Man Bill oh master is all over this one. Let me jump in with some experience.
Should be finishing up my term paper but this is more fun to talk about then Motorollas 68k chip family.
Well that and I dont post much so this is helping my post count.
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The advantage of a larger MC is better brake feel
***Are you talking about the reservoir or the piston itself? Becasue both MCs have 15/16 stamped on them. I am assuming that this means they both have a 15/16 bore. Is that correct?
Keep in mind though if you use the Integra MC you HAVE to use the brake booster from the Integra as well.
***Yeah I noticed that. The Integra MC wont even bolt onto the Civic brake booster anyways b/c the bolt holes do not align.
To test your MC simply turn the car on and depress the brakes fully. If the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor the MC needs a rebuild (75 bucks from NAPA).
***On the Integra MC I removed the rubber seal at the end where the shaft meets the brake booster. It looks like there is a pressed in seal with a metal ring. How do you remove this seal/ring to get inside the MC? My Haynes manual says that the fatory recommends that you not rebuild the MC if it needs to be replaced. I think that is BS.
John I do not plan on road racing so I do not need the large reservoir that the Teg MC offers. Assuming that both MCs have the same 15/16 bore size is there any reason to make a mess and install the Teg MC? I will be using the Teg prop valve for sure.
Thanks
