ok first off im trying to get some thoughts on what cams, and intake manifold/TB setup i should use on my motor, also what injector size.
im not looking to drop a shit load of money, but still wanna get quality stuff.
heres my build, make your selection accordingly....

LS/Vtec
B18, stock crank/rods, ARP rod bolts, Endyn "RollerWave" high comp. pistons(supposed to be right at 12.5:1 in this set-up.
B16 head, with ITR cams/springs/retainers. supposidly shaved .040, B16 intake manifold/TB, and LS injectors.

this set-up has been tuned on 93 octane and been running for close to 40K miles or so. just looking to get a lil more out of it....

so lets hear the opinions on what cam and intake setup you guys would suggest, and also list the reason why you suggest it....

thanx guys, and rep is waiting for all those with helpfull info....

 

uhh....itbs and vtec killer todas! up grade fuel system asap!

 

Def a biger pump than the sohc one you have. Dropping the tank is pain though.

ITR intake manifold too.

 

BC4's and a VICTOR X manifold.. You won't!!!

 

I'd go with a performer X manifold and S2 Pro 1's with skunk 2 pro series valve springs and retainers, manley valve locks.

 

ive heard of clearence issues with the pro 1's... obviously i should check clearences before i run it, but has anyone used these and ran into any problems?

Vance, ill be getting my hands on a 255 very soon.

 

probably not if your daring me to....and just why should i choose this set-up over what others have suggested?

 

since when do you have to drop the tank to change a fuel pump lol?

 

the motor is in an ef. you have to drop the tank on ef's and crx's to put in the pump.

as for your question troy. i've seen buddy club spec3's do really well and as for an intake mani. i'd either use a skun2 pro series or wait til they release their new composite intake mani.

 

If it is a crx or DA then you do.

As for the pro1's yes you really need to check valve to valve, retainer to guide seal, and valve to piston. The only one you really need to use special tools for is checking retainer to guide seal. If you degree them in to skunk to peak lift lobe centerlines then you will likely be safe but with the head milled 0.040" you really should be checking these things with any large cam. Everything but the valve to valve can be checked without removing the head, at skunk 2's recommended lobe centers valve to valve isn't really close.