H2B conversion kit
The Underdog!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 0
i have no experience with this, but i was looking at it and there is a lil fabricating to do. heres some FAQ's
Which motor mounts do I use with the QSD H2B kit?
DA, EG, DC, and EK chassis’s utilize all B-series mounts. We do NOT advise the use of just OEM mounts alone. At the minimum urethane inserts is a must. We highly recommend using any of the major aftermarket B-series mount kits available.
EF chassis’s require any aftermarket bolt-in-kit, or re-welded B-series mounts.
Remember, the B-series transmission does not relocate, therefore all of the mount positions are retained around the transmission.
Which rear L-bracket do I use?
Same as with a B-series. EF uses DA, EG/DC uses DC, EK uses 99+ SI.
Which flywheel and clutch do I use?
Any B-series flywheel and clutch assembly. From the flywheel out, everything is B-series. Just like the B-series, make sure the clutch used matches your small or large splined tranny.
Is the position and length of the axles or shift linkage changed in any way?
No. If the transmission does not budge, neither do the axles or shift linkage. You retain the same B-series drivetrain components used in your chassis.
So what has to remain from the H-series drivetrain?
Nothing. Again, the H2B uses entire B-series drivetrain from the flywheel out to the axles. Such a simple concept.
So all I need from the H-series is the longblock and it’s components?
Correct.
Does the engine adapter plate work with an F-series block?
Yes.
Does the kit work with the later model SH blocks?
Our adapter plate will bolt up to any H or F series engine. However, the new SH blocks used with the ATTS transmission were designed with a different block casting than the rest. The rear of the block is completely different and does not work with our B-series intermediate adapter. But you can weld the core mounts onto the block. It's been done, and proven to work.
Is hood clearance an issue with all chassis’?
Yes. This is the sacrifice you have to make to optimize your drivetrain. Since the B-series transmission is not repositioned, the H-series engine will now sit in a slightly higher postion.
DA, EG, DC, and EK owners can run an OEM hood while spacing the rear hinges 1.5 inches.
The EF faithful are not so fortunate. A cowl style hood/or modifications will be required. You need a solid 3 inches of clearance in a Rex. And no, the SIR hood does not even come close.
What must be done to the drivers side framerail?
Framerail modifications must be made in all chassis’s to gain the clearance needed for the alternator belt. A focus of engine clearance resides around the rear balancing shaft gear.
Running a smaller alternator belt from either the B/D-series engine will assist but still requires clearance to fit.
Prepare to drop your engine in and out a few times before satisfied clearance is obtained.
What other modifications are required on the engine?
Well, you also need to grind the rear of the block to create clearance needed for the drivers side axle.
heres a link to this guy steve-o from honda-tech he did this into a eg
Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: H22 H2B EG Civic Project has started. (56k, go swap a motor)
Which motor mounts do I use with the QSD H2B kit?
DA, EG, DC, and EK chassis’s utilize all B-series mounts. We do NOT advise the use of just OEM mounts alone. At the minimum urethane inserts is a must. We highly recommend using any of the major aftermarket B-series mount kits available.
EF chassis’s require any aftermarket bolt-in-kit, or re-welded B-series mounts.
Remember, the B-series transmission does not relocate, therefore all of the mount positions are retained around the transmission.
Which rear L-bracket do I use?
Same as with a B-series. EF uses DA, EG/DC uses DC, EK uses 99+ SI.
Which flywheel and clutch do I use?
Any B-series flywheel and clutch assembly. From the flywheel out, everything is B-series. Just like the B-series, make sure the clutch used matches your small or large splined tranny.
Is the position and length of the axles or shift linkage changed in any way?
No. If the transmission does not budge, neither do the axles or shift linkage. You retain the same B-series drivetrain components used in your chassis.
So what has to remain from the H-series drivetrain?
Nothing. Again, the H2B uses entire B-series drivetrain from the flywheel out to the axles. Such a simple concept.
So all I need from the H-series is the longblock and it’s components?
Correct.
Does the engine adapter plate work with an F-series block?
Yes.
Does the kit work with the later model SH blocks?
Our adapter plate will bolt up to any H or F series engine. However, the new SH blocks used with the ATTS transmission were designed with a different block casting than the rest. The rear of the block is completely different and does not work with our B-series intermediate adapter. But you can weld the core mounts onto the block. It's been done, and proven to work.
Is hood clearance an issue with all chassis’?
Yes. This is the sacrifice you have to make to optimize your drivetrain. Since the B-series transmission is not repositioned, the H-series engine will now sit in a slightly higher postion.
DA, EG, DC, and EK owners can run an OEM hood while spacing the rear hinges 1.5 inches.
The EF faithful are not so fortunate. A cowl style hood/or modifications will be required. You need a solid 3 inches of clearance in a Rex. And no, the SIR hood does not even come close.
What must be done to the drivers side framerail?
Framerail modifications must be made in all chassis’s to gain the clearance needed for the alternator belt. A focus of engine clearance resides around the rear balancing shaft gear.
Running a smaller alternator belt from either the B/D-series engine will assist but still requires clearance to fit.
Prepare to drop your engine in and out a few times before satisfied clearance is obtained.
What other modifications are required on the engine?
Well, you also need to grind the rear of the block to create clearance needed for the drivers side axle.
heres a link to this guy steve-o from honda-tech he did this into a eg
Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: H22 H2B EG Civic Project has started. (56k, go swap a motor)
Thread Starter
Scissor Me Timbers!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 0
i have no experience with this, but i was looking at it and there is a lil fabricating to do. heres some FAQ's
Which motor mounts do I use with the QSD H2B kit?
DA, EG, DC, and EK chassis’s utilize all B-series mounts. We do NOT advise the use of just OEM mounts alone. At the minimum urethane inserts is a must. We highly recommend using any of the major aftermarket B-series mount kits available.
EF chassis’s require any aftermarket bolt-in-kit, or re-welded B-series mounts.
Remember, the B-series transmission does not relocate, therefore all of the mount positions are retained around the transmission.
Which rear L-bracket do I use?
Same as with a B-series. EF uses DA, EG/DC uses DC, EK uses 99+ SI.
Which flywheel and clutch do I use?
Any B-series flywheel and clutch assembly. From the flywheel out, everything is B-series. Just like the B-series, make sure the clutch used matches your small or large splined tranny.
Is the position and length of the axles or shift linkage changed in any way?
No. If the transmission does not budge, neither do the axles or shift linkage. You retain the same B-series drivetrain components used in your chassis.
So what has to remain from the H-series drivetrain?
Nothing. Again, the H2B uses entire B-series drivetrain from the flywheel out to the axles. Such a simple concept.
So all I need from the H-series is the longblock and it’s components?
Correct.
Does the engine adapter plate work with an F-series block?
Yes.
Does the kit work with the later model SH blocks?
Our adapter plate will bolt up to any H or F series engine. However, the new SH blocks used with the ATTS transmission were designed with a different block casting than the rest. The rear of the block is completely different and does not work with our B-series intermediate adapter. But you can weld the core mounts onto the block. It's been done, and proven to work.
Is hood clearance an issue with all chassis’?
Yes. This is the sacrifice you have to make to optimize your drivetrain. Since the B-series transmission is not repositioned, the H-series engine will now sit in a slightly higher postion.
DA, EG, DC, and EK owners can run an OEM hood while spacing the rear hinges 1.5 inches.
The EF faithful are not so fortunate. A cowl style hood/or modifications will be required. You need a solid 3 inches of clearance in a Rex. And no, the SIR hood does not even come close.
What must be done to the drivers side framerail?
Framerail modifications must be made in all chassis’s to gain the clearance needed for the alternator belt. A focus of engine clearance resides around the rear balancing shaft gear.
Running a smaller alternator belt from either the B/D-series engine will assist but still requires clearance to fit.
Prepare to drop your engine in and out a few times before satisfied clearance is obtained.
What other modifications are required on the engine?
Well, you also need to grind the rear of the block to create clearance needed for the drivers side axle.
heres a link to this guy steve-o from honda-tech he did this into a eg
Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: H22 H2B EG Civic Project has started. (56k, go swap a motor)
Which motor mounts do I use with the QSD H2B kit?
DA, EG, DC, and EK chassis’s utilize all B-series mounts. We do NOT advise the use of just OEM mounts alone. At the minimum urethane inserts is a must. We highly recommend using any of the major aftermarket B-series mount kits available.
EF chassis’s require any aftermarket bolt-in-kit, or re-welded B-series mounts.
Remember, the B-series transmission does not relocate, therefore all of the mount positions are retained around the transmission.
Which rear L-bracket do I use?
Same as with a B-series. EF uses DA, EG/DC uses DC, EK uses 99+ SI.
Which flywheel and clutch do I use?
Any B-series flywheel and clutch assembly. From the flywheel out, everything is B-series. Just like the B-series, make sure the clutch used matches your small or large splined tranny.
Is the position and length of the axles or shift linkage changed in any way?
No. If the transmission does not budge, neither do the axles or shift linkage. You retain the same B-series drivetrain components used in your chassis.
So what has to remain from the H-series drivetrain?
Nothing. Again, the H2B uses entire B-series drivetrain from the flywheel out to the axles. Such a simple concept.
So all I need from the H-series is the longblock and it’s components?
Correct.
Does the engine adapter plate work with an F-series block?
Yes.
Does the kit work with the later model SH blocks?
Our adapter plate will bolt up to any H or F series engine. However, the new SH blocks used with the ATTS transmission were designed with a different block casting than the rest. The rear of the block is completely different and does not work with our B-series intermediate adapter. But you can weld the core mounts onto the block. It's been done, and proven to work.
Is hood clearance an issue with all chassis’?
Yes. This is the sacrifice you have to make to optimize your drivetrain. Since the B-series transmission is not repositioned, the H-series engine will now sit in a slightly higher postion.
DA, EG, DC, and EK owners can run an OEM hood while spacing the rear hinges 1.5 inches.
The EF faithful are not so fortunate. A cowl style hood/or modifications will be required. You need a solid 3 inches of clearance in a Rex. And no, the SIR hood does not even come close.
What must be done to the drivers side framerail?
Framerail modifications must be made in all chassis’s to gain the clearance needed for the alternator belt. A focus of engine clearance resides around the rear balancing shaft gear.
Running a smaller alternator belt from either the B/D-series engine will assist but still requires clearance to fit.
Prepare to drop your engine in and out a few times before satisfied clearance is obtained.
What other modifications are required on the engine?
Well, you also need to grind the rear of the block to create clearance needed for the drivers side axle.
heres a link to this guy steve-o from honda-tech he did this into a eg
Honda-Tech.com: Hybrid: H22 H2B EG Civic Project has started. (56k, go swap a motor)
I really want to do this conversion sounds like it will be easy!
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