SPOONCIVIC

ok so im buying a set of cams with in a week or two.heres the thing im not sure what will clear my set-up....this is the set-up

b18c block (jdm gsr)
ls crank
rev rods
wisco 11:1 pistons

b16a2 head
full rev valve train
.5mm over sized valves

its 12:1 comp after its added up with the stroke and pistons

now,with the LS stroke being longer than a GSR and the .5mm valves what will clear?skunk2 says not to use their stage-2 or stage-3 cams with over sized valves.and i really dont want stage-1 so if anyone can help that'd be great.

Eluzzionz

well if they dont recommend it...its for a reason...i doubt u should of went with oversized .. not really a reason too...im sure someone could tune it and make it work...either way goodluck....

T4eg

U could get valve releifs opend up in pistons to give room. i did the skunk2 pro stage 1s on a 82mm 12:1 ls vtec made 210whp.

KJ

The problem with the oversized valves w/ the stage 2 cams is that the valves can hit each other, not really the piston so much since Wiseco should be able to accomodate a .5mm oversize on the valve no problem. You will need to check valve to valve and valve to piston clearance before final assembly of the head.

SPOONCIVIC

head is on the car and has been running for bout 6 months.so much for checking before final assembly i guess.....now what should i do?

ive heard of claying, what is this and how much does it run?

and as for skunk2 pro stage1 i really want more power then that...ive spent to much time and money to settle for a mild cam and little power gain.

JDMBlackGSR

I dont think that you can go over a stage 1 cam, with any brand, due to the oversized valves. I looked into this when I was going to get cams and valves. I ended up getting stage 1 cams so that I could upgrade the valves.

KJ

Skunk2 pro 1's are a big cam. Lift is greater or equal to the older stage 2's. The pro 1's are not a small cam.

You need to pull the head to clay check valve to piston clearances. This involves installing and removing the head several times and cranking it over by hand each time and taking measurements with vtec locked. In order to check valve to valve clearance the head will need to be removed also. The way I did it in the past was to install the head and cams onto a spare b16a block that had a crank in but no rods or pistons. I cut a hole in the side of the block for a window and then threw a timing belt on and rotated the motor and measured the valve to valve clearances with feeler gauges at different cam gear settings. You could also put the head on a set of head stands and fit a custom belt on there that just fits over the cam gears only and keeps them in time, I've seen pictures of people doing this although I don't know where to get the belt at. I've also heard you can put the head on a set of stands and use a standard timing belt that is pinched with a set of vice grips, never seen this one work though.

Also when checking valve to valve you will need a spare set of rocker arms for one cylinder that have been modified (ruined) to keep both valves locked into vtec. To clay check you can use your good rocker arms and just swap the pins.

Hope this post made sense.

BERT-O

Nope, one mis-shift and go-boom!

what header? if its a "el cheapo" header, why don't u add 156456456456 shot NOS instead!

What intake manifold, what are you using for tuning? What gearing? What kind of power are you looking for? mid range? top end?

SPOONCIVIC

greedy 4-2-1 header

JG mani

and i will use hondata s300

with a 200 shot

skunk2racing97

good info, very well put