So I'm wondering, I have to rebuild the bottom end of my B18B, and I would like to bump compression a bit, so when I go LS/VTEC next semester, the cams will respond a little better.

Here's the question:

On my LS crank, are there any OEM piston/rod combos that will increase compression without having to have GSR/ITR pistons pressed onto LS rods?

I know the bearings on the LS are a lot wider, so I can't run straight GSR rods, but I would like to avoid having used pistons pressed onto used rods if possible.

So, LMK what you are running, or what your friends are running on B18B's only please.

-Tim

 

Tim,

On the ls/vtec motors I have built I have used OEM brand new pistons & had 1mm removed from each side of the inside of the piston to clear the ls rod.

I also had arp rod bolts installed according to arp's specs on the ls rods.

 

John -

I'm PMing you about this right now.

Thanks for the input.

 

I'm pretty sure some pistons(p30's) dont require the rods to be shaved, and also what I heard, correct me if I'm wrong but its better to shave off the inside of the piston instead of the rod since theres more material

 

def get some p30s ull have ~11.56..prolly the best oem piston to get on a DD..for ls/vtec

 

yea i did some research and found a thread about this on H-T...

the PR3s and P30s dont require any milling, and i will prob go PR3 just cuz theyre cheaper and easier to get ahold of, and the end difference between the PR3 (11.35ish) and the P30 (11.57ish) is minimal...

that pretty much what i needed to hear, thanks guys, rep for all

 

well if u get them brand new im pretty sure they are the same price?..but u could always just use a 2layer HG to raise it a little more too..

 

hmotorsonline.com sells them

 

if you need them pressed i will do it plus i have sets of brand new wrist pins

 

Where are you located and how much do you charge, I'm gonna be needing this done in a few weeks