Bearing Sizes
Rick James bitch
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Bearing Sizes
Is their a chart somewhere that I can find out what size the main & rod bearings are? What I mean is like achart that shows what size each color is.
MAIN:
Letters are on the block, numbers are on the crank, put the two together to get color code
ROD:
Letters are on the crank, numbers are on the rods, same process as above
Blue .0594-.0593
Black .0593-.0592
Brown .0592-.0591
Green .0591-.0590
Yellow .0590-.0589
Pink .0589-.0587
Red .0587-.0586
BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
Main Bearing thickness by color
Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”
Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”
Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”
Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”
Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”
Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”
Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”
Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”
Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”
Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”
Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”
Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”
Although most people do not have inside micrometers, bearing micrometers or snap gauges,
you can still use this chart when using plastigage to check bearing clearance.
If you want to increase or decrease a bearing clearance, you can calculate how much
of a color change is necessary by looking at the changes on the chart. Remember you can
mix colors for even a more fine-tuning but it would not be wise to jump more than one color.
In other words, do not mix a brown and yellow bearing together to equal a green clearance
value. Just use the greens together. It is ok to mix a green with a yellow or a green with a
brown. When doing your rebuild and replacing bearings with like colors, you still must check
your results with plastigage to be sure. Don’t assume anything. Also remember, when swapping
to aftermarket rods, throw the color codes away as they will not work anymore. You need to
start from scratch to obtain your desired clearance. On the other hand, you really cannot
measure accurately to the nearest .0001” without machinist quality tools, so don’t get carried away on that last one ten thousandth of an inch variance.
Letters are on the block, numbers are on the crank, put the two together to get color code
ROD:
Letters are on the crank, numbers are on the rods, same process as above
Blue .0594-.0593
Black .0593-.0592
Brown .0592-.0591
Green .0591-.0590
Yellow .0590-.0589
Pink .0589-.0587
Red .0587-.0586
BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
Main Bearing thickness by color
Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”
Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”
Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”
Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”
Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”
Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”
Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”
Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”
Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”
Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”
Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”
Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”
Although most people do not have inside micrometers, bearing micrometers or snap gauges,
you can still use this chart when using plastigage to check bearing clearance.
If you want to increase or decrease a bearing clearance, you can calculate how much
of a color change is necessary by looking at the changes on the chart. Remember you can
mix colors for even a more fine-tuning but it would not be wise to jump more than one color.
In other words, do not mix a brown and yellow bearing together to equal a green clearance
value. Just use the greens together. It is ok to mix a green with a yellow or a green with a
brown. When doing your rebuild and replacing bearings with like colors, you still must check
your results with plastigage to be sure. Don’t assume anything. Also remember, when swapping
to aftermarket rods, throw the color codes away as they will not work anymore. You need to
start from scratch to obtain your desired clearance. On the other hand, you really cannot
measure accurately to the nearest .0001” without machinist quality tools, so don’t get carried away on that last one ten thousandth of an inch variance.
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Rick James bitch
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Thank you sooo much for the info. While u were responding to my post I figured I better go & check my rod bearings. Well I got all green & eagle h beam rods. Im like 100% sure the crank has been turned. I put 1 set of bearings in a rod & started to tighten it to check my clearances & I never finished bc I did the first faze of tightening & their was enough play that I could feel the rod move & when i moved the crank & let the rod hang fee it would just move. wouldent even touch the plasitguage. I think I MIGHT be able to use honda bearings for the mains but I can not for the rods. Im going to take it to the machine shop you told me about & see whatr numbers they give me.
Engine lab of tampa
201 S 78th St
Tampa, FL 33619
(813) 630-2422
Is this correct?
Engine lab of tampa
201 S 78th St
Tampa, FL 33619
(813) 630-2422
Is this correct?
Thank you sooo much for the info. While u were responding to my post I figured I better go & check my rod bearings. Well I got all green & eagle h beam rods. Im like 100% sure the crank has been turned. I put 1 set of bearings in a rod & started to tighten it to check my clearances & I never finished bc I did the first faze of tightening & their was enough play that I could feel the rod move & when i moved the crank & let the rod hang fee it would just move. wouldent even touch the plasitguage. I think I MIGHT be able to use honda bearings for the mains but I can not for the rods. Im going to take it to the machine shop you told me about & see whatr numbers they give me.
Engine lab of tampa
201 S 78th St
Tampa, FL 33619
(813) 630-2422
Is this correct?
Engine lab of tampa
201 S 78th St
Tampa, FL 33619
(813) 630-2422
Is this correct?
__________________
Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831
Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831
Rick James bitch
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I figured that since I had 3 sets of brown & 2 sets of green & it came out to .0015 on all the sets I could change the green to black & brown to blue & that would take me to .0011 The book calls for .0009 - .0017 I figured that I would be able to run a little better if I dont run them so tight that way Ill be able to spin up faster. Now for the rods Im going to have to go after market. What brand would be best to try to stick with?
Rods depend on your budget and goals
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Rick James bitch
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Well I got the specs from my crank today & I also found a service manual & it turns out the crank was never turned. I guess someone must have had a line bore done to the block. As far as rods I have eagle h beam rods& I tried a set of green bearings & they are waaaay too small. So I may have to go aftermarket on those like acl. I found someone who owns a shop & can get a set for like 20 something.
My plan is to go turbo later on so I would prefer to have it built accordingly
My plan is to go turbo later on so I would prefer to have it built accordingly
Well I got the specs from my crank today & I also found a service manual & it turns out the crank was never turned. I guess someone must have had a line bore done to the block. As far as rods I have eagle h beam rods& I tried a set of green bearings & they are waaaay too small. So I may have to go aftermarket on those like acl. I found someone who owns a shop & can get a set for like 20 something.
My plan is to go turbo later on so I would prefer to have it built accordingly
My plan is to go turbo later on so I would prefer to have it built accordingly
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* IP E-Mail
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* RIP Kevin/Slo_Si RIP & Pablo/Fathead
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* RIP Kevin/Slo_Si RIP & Pablo/Fathead
Rick James bitch
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With bearings if y our doing a Stock rebuild Stay OEM. I honestly prefe OEM honda bearings all day long but in my last couple of builts Ive been using Clevite Larger varity and I feel they stand upa lil better. I think its great your learning how todo all this BUt you may need to take a trip to a machine shop and hve the guys mic your shizzy and elp you figure out exactly what you need. I hate when you get a nice as engin build and 100mileslater your bearings fail...