im assuming you installed the new regulators correctly?

honda regulators are notorious for being crappy. if there are no teeth or the teeth are misalligned that would also fix your prob....

 

senor honda: with the switch activated there is no fire to the motor, with it turned off there is fire and ground. I took the motor and hooked the direct to a battery and both motors worked fine, as soon as I plug them into the car there is nothing.

skunk2racing97: the regulator is installed correctly, its weird that it wont work once hooked to the cars plug.

 

There Might Be A Relay That Has Gone Bad, Is Shows Power But Wont Let Any Current Thru, I Dont Know If Your Car Has A Relay, Use Test Light To The Plug Inside Door Going To Window Motor - When You Activate Switch Does Light - Light Up? Do You Have Power At The Switches? Does Power Transfrer Thru Switches?

 

I replaced the relay just in case when this all started. There is fire at the switch and coming out of the switch at the motor. Today I made a wire jumper and wired the motor directly to the wires coming out of the harness in case the plug was bad and still nothing, its really strange, I grew up working on cars and my dad still owns his own business of over 25 years and he as well is dumbfounded.
LMK if any suggestions!

 

Electrical Problems Like This Are Hard To Figure Out Without Hands-on, I Would Just Trace It From One Item To Another Until You Find The Broken Link

 

when you checked for power at the motor did you use one wire and a ground or did you use both wires? becuase i had a master switch go bad and both were getting +12 which caused the window to not move.

 

ok. So next test the switch when activated, to see if fire is coming
*out* the switch and to the motor. If fire comes *into* the switch, but is not leaving to go *to* the motor, I would suspect the switch is bad.....
sometimes the switch problem turns out to be intermittent , and therefore harder to track......except with multiple on-off flickings while connected to a volt-ohm meter.

The reason I suggested unbolting the motor from the door and jumpering both the 12volts and the ground to the motor, was to see if there was some sort of path the 12v could take; that would no longer be available if the motor could not touch the door.
I also wanted to see if there was some possibility that the door
frame was actually the ground/return path that would no longer be available once the motor was unbolted from the door. Keep us posted as to what you find with the switch-Bob

 

solving a power window problem
ttt