vtec question?
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vtec question?
This is for a freind of mine first off. He was informing me he was going to open the vteck solinoid ( i think is whhat he said) so that his vtec would be on at all times ( ofcourse hooked up to a switch for racing purpose). I told him that with out feeding it more air/fuel tht he would not gain anything. Am I correct or will he have more power?
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Originally Posted by freakasis
unless you tune it for the vtec then you actually lose power.
hooking it to a swith and/or leaving it on it dumb.
and its VTEC
no K's no H's just VTEC!!
hooking it to a swith and/or leaving it on it dumb.
and its VTEC
no K's no H's just VTEC!!
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tell your friend he needs to learn how the vtec works and what the fuel maps on the ecu do before he tries anything like this.....wait better off tell him he's a ricer and stick to the neons and led shift knobs.
not only will this loose power but the motor would be running the wrong timing as well as injector pulses, the result will be miss firing and wrong a/f ratio, basically he'll fuck up the motor if he runs it like this for too long.
the reason vtec gives more power is the same reason muscle car owners change out their cams, higher rpms need a different cam profile inorder to make power. but on the muscle cars the cams make that unmistakeable lopping (sp) idle, why, because the cams that are good at high rpms suck at low rpms. the cams in a vtec motor are basically 2 different profiles, 1 for low rpms and one for high rpms. With this you have a good idle and good performance at high rpms.
on to the ecu, in the muscle car you have to adjust the carb, ( for the older engines) or flash the ecu for the efi motors, when you install the different cams. The ecu on a vtec motor has the settings for the low cam profile and the high cam profile, and it switches them when the rpm hits a certain point. effectively the wtec ecu " retunes the carb" on the fly.
there is a small window that you can play with the vtec engagement and get more power ( assuming you also change the fuel maps at the same time), but for the most part honda sets it dead on at the factory.
moral of the story, don't rig the vtec with a switch.
not only will this loose power but the motor would be running the wrong timing as well as injector pulses, the result will be miss firing and wrong a/f ratio, basically he'll fuck up the motor if he runs it like this for too long.
the reason vtec gives more power is the same reason muscle car owners change out their cams, higher rpms need a different cam profile inorder to make power. but on the muscle cars the cams make that unmistakeable lopping (sp) idle, why, because the cams that are good at high rpms suck at low rpms. the cams in a vtec motor are basically 2 different profiles, 1 for low rpms and one for high rpms. With this you have a good idle and good performance at high rpms.
on to the ecu, in the muscle car you have to adjust the carb, ( for the older engines) or flash the ecu for the efi motors, when you install the different cams. The ecu on a vtec motor has the settings for the low cam profile and the high cam profile, and it switches them when the rpm hits a certain point. effectively the wtec ecu " retunes the carb" on the fly.
there is a small window that you can play with the vtec engagement and get more power ( assuming you also change the fuel maps at the same time), but for the most part honda sets it dead on at the factory.
moral of the story, don't rig the vtec with a switch.
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