turbo = more maintance, and more speed.

n/a = if built right, very reliable and quick not fast

and thats for a b16a ive had both n/a and turbo

n/a cost about 1000-1500 to go 14.0-14.3

turbo cost 1900-2500 to go 13.3-12.8

 

that statement = turbo

research will be your greatest source of strength in this endeavor.

 

Turbo
2000 - good quality turbo kit
700 - fuel management/tuning
----------
$2700

Power ~ 250whp@7-8psi
1/4 mile ~ high 13's

N/A
300 - pistons/rings
300 - gaskets/seals
300 - machine work
400 - good cams
400 - valvetrain
600 - fuel management/tuning
300 - header
opt - intake manifold, cam gears
-----------
$2600

Power ~ 180whp
1/4 mile ~ mid to low 14's

If you cannot do the labor yourself its going to be about $400 and about 2 daysfor a turbo kit install and probably almost $1000 and 2 weeks for the N/A build/install. IMO i would say the a turbo will be just as reliable as a 'good' all motor build but you cannot avoid the addition of more components that can just randomly break or cause problems for no apparent reason, but then again ripping arpart a perfectly good stock motor can generate problems too

PS dont forget youll be needing a good clutch too

 

if have to DISAGREE with you guys both i have a friend that had a bone stock b-16a1 in a 88 ef hatch that went 14.0 in the 1\4 mile. he got the motor for $1100 got a deal for some headers (comptech) and b&m fuel pressure regulator with guage for $50 custom ehaust (pipe bending method) with apexi n1 axle back can (don't know how much he had that for) lets say $100 for that. And a HDM intake a.k.a (Home Depot Motorsports) and a stock replacemnt clucth that he got for free. also some aerospeed lowering springs so on a real rough estimate i would say that with all he did he had about $1300 -$1350 in it that means getting the motor and everything else. it all comes down to driving ability a.k.a. DRIVING SKILLS. TRIVIA QUESTION???? it was a black 88 ef hatch, the guy was black, and the giveaway he had locks a.k.a. dreads. can you tell me who this is?

 

Well here is my 2 cents. I say "bang for your buck" turbo. If you want something really reliable then slightley moded N/A is for you. One thing most people don't seem to remember is, if you drive it like a race car and mod it like a race car it is going to brake like one. If you want real power, turbo is the way to go. The B16A responds very well to turbo, but you will have a lot of maintenance. I think the biggest thing may be trying to stop all the damn oil leeks. I have had both and I see less reliability in a turbo Civic. Hey think about it, the only turbo car Honda ever made was back in the late 70's or 80's (can't remeber) and there was only one. Good luck!!!

 

I hope you're not serious.
There's a slight weight difference between a 1988 hatch and a 2000 Si.....about 500lbs worth, assuming the ef wasnt gutted

 

yes i am serious and i was more leaning to the explanation of the cost oppossed to the cost you guys said. yes the ef was gutted pass and rear seats head liner and rear panels. did not really see that he has a oo si and yes there is a big weight difference in those cars even. also as you and many should know that the 88 is the lighest ef hatch you can get. but yeah that was his setup and that was his time 14.0 in the 1\4 mile. don't know who this was? Hint:used to frequent the ZMR shop.