Honda/Acura Tech Honda tech discussion.

electrical ground/short problem

Old Sep 10, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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Default electrical ground/short problem

Just got done with my swap to JDM h22, engine works fine other then a noise coming from pulley area.
Now i start it and i'm having elec problem. turn headlights on and the power in dash/radio blinks and tach drops and stays at 0rpms. turn fan on(ac doesnt work yet) same result. push in the brake, same quik short of elec, tach drops but sometimes comes back up. sunroof/window switches also give me same result but only when motor would be stressing or when its already closed and im pushing switch to close. Bad ground? fried electrical parts somewhere?
i have a volt meter, no jumps or power loss in that, voltage or the light, light is connected using a fuse in fuse box.
and the temp is reading all the way in the red sometimes usually after the power jumps, and its not close to overheating

just tighted up all engine grounds, bout to sand down all contact points and screws to make sure it gets a good ground. have complete crashed prelude in back still have all elec parts, already started switching out relays.

Last edited by Epidemic813; Sep 10, 2005 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 10:42 AM
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check ground on tranny... Um Did you swap an entire harness ? Do you have a pinched wire bundle ? Check Connection on Alt, Starter. Main power seems to be fubared if your dash i messing up you have a common ground issue like power to a ground ie Shorted Wire to a ground
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 94EG_Hatch
check ground on tranny... Um Did you swap an entire harness ? Do you have a pinched wire bundle ? Check Connection on Alt, Starter. Main power seems to be fubared if your dash i messing up you have a common ground issue like power to a ground ie Shorted Wire to a ground
what he said...
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 01:48 PM
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ran good for a day, next morning it was this.
Swapped with engine harness, had it installed in my other lude that got totaled because of frame damage.
so i followed what i saw from how that was installed as far as wiring. going to check the wires and grounds to make sure i didnt miss anything
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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Yo bro, does the front of your crashed prelude is fucked up, or is good, cuz I need the radiator sostener
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 06:52 PM
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if you are having a power loss on one system while you put on a power load for another system then your electrical system can't handle the load. ( obvious part.) this is due to a couple different things. Battery is shot, may have worked one day but if it had a bad cell you wouldn't know until it all of a sudden gives up. Bad charging system, if the alternator can't put out enough juice this can happen. If the grounds are not making good contact you will have a resistive ground point, which means either all the current is flowing through that one point and the resistive nature of it is causing a low current flow, which can make the car act this way; or since electricity like the path of least resistance, one bad ground can couse the current to go to the other grounds, which if they are too small this again limits current flow.

since this is involving so many different systems if it were a cruched wire bundle you should be able to see it easily. if the grounds for these were shorted ( connected to ground in a different spot) it wouldn't make a difference, ground a wire at the end or 2 feet up the wire, as long as nothing is in between it dousn't matter. if the hot side of the circuit were shorting then you'd blow fuses from power going straight to ground. If it's not what I mentioned above the only thing I can think of in addition is if something punctured the wires bundle and crossed the wires, which when the puncturing item is withdrawn you'd have a small hole and several crossed wires.

If you can get it to autozone have them run a charging system diagnostic to rule that out.
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kender
if you are having a power loss on one system while you put on a power load for another system then your electrical system can't handle the load. ( obvious part.) this is due to a couple different things. Battery is shot, may have worked one day but if it had a bad cell you wouldn't know until it all of a sudden gives up. Bad charging system, if the alternator can't put out enough juice this can happen. If the grounds are not making good contact you will have a resistive ground point, which means either all the current is flowing through that one point and the resistive nature of it is causing a low current flow, which can make the car act this way; or since electricity like the path of least resistance, one bad ground can couse the current to go to the other grounds, which if they are too small this again limits current flow.

since this is involving so many different systems if it were a cruched wire bundle you should be able to see it easily. if the grounds for these were shorted ( connected to ground in a different spot) it wouldn't make a difference, ground a wire at the end or 2 feet up the wire, as long as nothing is in between it dousn't matter. if the hot side of the circuit were shorting then you'd blow fuses from power going straight to ground. If it's not what I mentioned above the only thing I can think of in addition is if something punctured the wires bundle and crossed the wires, which when the puncturing item is withdrawn you'd have a small hole and several crossed wires.

If you can get it to autozone have them run a charging system diagnostic to rule that out.


Didnt i just say that but so he can understand it
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 08:32 PM
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whoa good answer, iunno y but i understand the long one more, thanks for the help tho, hadda order a throttlecable. stuck tb ate up two already before i realized it waz a tb prollem, so ill put that on 2morrow and see wut happens, sanded down all grounds pretty shiny now maybe thatll work,
got an optima yellow top dry cell batt, so im really hopeN its not that tho that would prolly b the easiest fix, jus too expensive to replace with another optima
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 05:38 PM
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if it's a new optima I would highly doubt that is the problem, but on the off chance it is a fluke then I believe they have a 12 month warranty.
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kender
if it's a new optima I would highly doubt that is the problem, but on the off chance it is a fluke then I believe they have a 12 month warranty.
Try lifetime warrenty 2yr direct replacement
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