i really dont wanna deal out the money for a hondata or emanage . will a vafc 1 or 2 work just as well?

 

no they won't

 

chrome pro will work good enough for the price of your vafc

 

crome pro/uberdata/turboedit/BRE depending on the obd version.

 

AFC with dsm 450's will work pretty good, but nothing like uberdata/turboedit, hondata and any of those. What are your goals? and what car is it?

If you just want a little more power for your daily driver an AFC with injectors and good tuning should be good for 10-12psi. Of course there's a lot of variables so more info from you would be good.

 

too much timing will kill a motor over time...an afc actually creates this problem by fooling the map sensor to compensate for the larger injectors which in turn makes the motor think it has less load on it and increases timing advance.
i wouldnt use an afc for anything over 6-7psi, where timing starts becoming a bigger issue

 

Yes timing is an issue, but can be compensated by other things. It will really depend on your goals. Every motor is different too, so you will never get a straight answer. I have seen D-series run 15psi on the afc hack for over a year and had no issues, then I've seen some blowing up with 8-10psi and the hack.

It's not a bad option but not the best.


By the way I ran 9psi on the hack for a few months, no problems whatsoever. 88 Hatch with a SOHC Vtec ZC, 42/48 T3

 

As others have said, the best solution would be a chipped factory ecu using crome, uberdata, hondata etc.

Why piggybacks suck by pgmfi:
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.

Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)

But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable.

 

Couldn't of said it better myself, Well put Mtber... Well put, The cost of a VAFC is about the same cost of a chipped ECU.. why buy something thats going to lie and trick your ECU, lies will get you into trouble

 

in short don't get the piggy back hack, it.s like screwing a fat chick while watching porn...... you see a skinny chick but in reality your still riding a whale.