ghey headgasket
ok well driving my car i seen that the thermostat was a little crazy i replaced that and worked fine, next thing you know i get on it and im blowing clouds of smoke thats from burning oil, so i came to the conclusion i need a new headgasket, well from that i kept over heating and put antifreeze in there 24/7 no lie in like 3 days i put about 5 gallons, i jack the car up today drain all the antifreeze and im still leaking so now im sitting there and saying WTF, checked it out and all the antifreeze was leaking out the left side by the oil pan, so now its up to me to replace it but i need help from the wonderful TR, if someone could show me how to do it myself because the car is in my garage and is not moving
thanks
thanks
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Springhill


22" Nothing less
Springhill

22" Nothing less
its not the problem of over heating its the problem of it leaking then over heating, for one i know i need a headgasket, i just got back from my garage and i seen water/antifreeze leaking from the side of my oil pan so i figured i had water in my oil its leaking and i need a new gasket, so i proceed take off my oil pan , now the pan is off and its still dripping,idk if that explains it enough for you to help me but i need my car back on the road asap
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Springhill


22" Nothing less
Springhill

22" Nothing less
Get the upper timing cover off. They are 10mm bolts. You will have to remove the vavle cover. Follow your leak. If its to hard to tell. Clean off you area you need to look with brake clean or something that does the job well. Turn the car on let it run while your looking for the leak.
i think it was the water pump like u said i got a closer look at it, i pulled the"pulley" toward me more and more water started to flow out, im just learning w/ this new shit so how hard would thib be to replace
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Springhill


22" Nothing less
Springhill

22" Nothing less
its easy. Trust me. Just get what you need to remove what is in your way. Its right there
up top. Ive never done one in a car though.
Its always been before the motor was installed.
When installing I know must people arrue of this. But the water pump already has a gasket. You can in my case, just run some RTV or some Hondabond around the inner plate. Right above the rubber gaket inside the new water pump. Its up to you. You can just put it on and bolt in down. Or use the rtv.
Another thing. Those bolts will break easy. Just tighten them down to where they are good. Do not go more then when it feels like the bolt is going to break. Just be careful cause you don't want to break those bolts.
up top. Ive never done one in a car though.
Its always been before the motor was installed. When installing I know must people arrue of this. But the water pump already has a gasket. You can in my case, just run some RTV or some Hondabond around the inner plate. Right above the rubber gaket inside the new water pump. Its up to you. You can just put it on and bolt in down. Or use the rtv.
Another thing. Those bolts will break easy. Just tighten them down to where they are good. Do not go more then when it feels like the bolt is going to break. Just be careful cause you don't want to break those bolts.
alright the problem is the head gasket and the water pump leaks really bad, now i just need help or directions on how to do it
thanks
thanks
__________________
Springhill


22" Nothing less
Springhill

22" Nothing less
First I would go and buy a manual with all the torque specs on bolts if you don't already have one plus it can teach you what to do.
Also although replacing the water pump is not hard you'll need to put the timing belt back on which means making sure you don't skip a tooth, that you are at TDC, and all the rest.
I also suggest an OEM water pump.
My best suggestion is have someone who has worked on engines before come over to walk you through this, there are some many minor things that you have to remember that you won't want to screw up.
good luck
Also although replacing the water pump is not hard you'll need to put the timing belt back on which means making sure you don't skip a tooth, that you are at TDC, and all the rest.
I also suggest an OEM water pump.
My best suggestion is have someone who has worked on engines before come over to walk you through this, there are some many minor things that you have to remember that you won't want to screw up.
good luck
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if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point
...91 SMF SCCA
...91 SMF SCCAhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
– the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production
There really is no other way to tell you this without being there. Basically remove everything and anything in the way and connecting the the head. Removing the intake mani. is optinial. Although I remove it because I always leave the intake bracket off on the back side to elnimate a step pernamently. Hoses, part of the engine wirring harness etc.. Thats for removing everything. . Its common sense when removing things. And there really is no way of putting things in the wrong place on install. If you need to mark what you removed.(draw a line across whatever you removed.) Plugs off the harness really only go one way.
Now for the tbelt. Make sure that the cam timing is at tdc or the t marks on the cam shaft pulley are level with the head side to side.(small lines) You can slide the tbelt off without having to do anything else. Just when you put it back on check the tension. (Adjust if ness.)Slide the tbelt off the cam pulley using your fingers. This is a sohc right? Its fairly easy. When you remove the head bolt nuts. Start from the center and work your way out when breaking loose the head bolt nuts. You could warp the head doing this incorretly. In fact since you were overheating I would have the head resufaced and the block measurred for warpage to do this correctly.
The best way is get a helms, or haynes either one is just as good for this. Go step by step if this is your first attempt.
I will do all this for you wilthout cleanup, parts etc for $200.00 labor. If you had a metal headgasket cleaning off the old headgasket should be a brezze. If this a paper gasket make sure you clean it all off. And make sure to get clean around the dowels.(this is key) Probably forgetting some stuff. Its really not that hard. I would really recommend you do this on your own for the learning exp.
Now for the tbelt. Make sure that the cam timing is at tdc or the t marks on the cam shaft pulley are level with the head side to side.(small lines) You can slide the tbelt off without having to do anything else. Just when you put it back on check the tension. (Adjust if ness.)Slide the tbelt off the cam pulley using your fingers. This is a sohc right? Its fairly easy. When you remove the head bolt nuts. Start from the center and work your way out when breaking loose the head bolt nuts. You could warp the head doing this incorretly. In fact since you were overheating I would have the head resufaced and the block measurred for warpage to do this correctly.
The best way is get a helms, or haynes either one is just as good for this. Go step by step if this is your first attempt.
I will do all this for you wilthout cleanup, parts etc for $200.00 labor. If you had a metal headgasket cleaning off the old headgasket should be a brezze. If this a paper gasket make sure you clean it all off. And make sure to get clean around the dowels.(this is key) Probably forgetting some stuff. Its really not that hard. I would really recommend you do this on your own for the learning exp.
Last edited by crx1.8; Mar 16, 2005 at 09:07 AM.


