we could do a how to rebuild john's new spair b16 block!?!11?!1

EDIT: written up before i do it...

 

yeah JOHN YOURE WELCOME!!!!!

enjoy the new world of disassebling and rebuilding a nice jdm b16a

 

yeah i know thanks so much for the help man! the block is so pretty i'm going to pressure wash it after work tomorrow and read up on how to take it apart.

 

another homemade turbo motor builder in the making, have fun

take it apart piece by piece, hell you cant screw anything up, this way you will know what it is when the talk about it in the helms manual, kinda like seeing the test before its given

 

I decided I'll do a writeup on Distributors as they relate to mix matching for swaps obd conversions and ignition diagnostics in general.

 

Their are alot of FAQ's i see asked here that could be address in the honda-tech FAQ/Archive sections , or by using the search button. Would it be ok if we linked to some honda-tech threads ?

 

my builds with the SOHC bone yard turbo setup....
parts used:
1)turbo-air reaserch M10 or t-25 witch can be gotten from just about any DSM guy doing the 16g swap
it has a great spool for a d15 or d16 engine
2)manifold-HF I have had great luck with removing the exhaust housing from the turbo and welding it directly to the manifold it's self (much easyer than making or getting a flang)
3)intercooler-(this is for 92-00) most honda owner's get ride of the A/C soooo...
the intercooler that come's stock in the 88-91 thunderbird turbo coupe or ford murkuer(sp?) fit's perfectly inplace of the condensor right next to the radiator the great part is the inlet for the turbo on the intercooler will sit about 3" directly infront of the turbo air out (some turbo's will need the compresor housing's to be spun just a bit to line up right....no biggie) then with a small peice of hose connect the turbo to the intercooler (easy) the outlet of the IC is on top of the IC and face's the engine at this point you will need to get some mandril bent pipe witch you can get from lenard from GEARHEAD...2" if memmory serve's the angle's should be 2x90 deg. and
2x45 deg. bend's you can get these pipe in aluminized pipe witch will save you some money a flange will have to be made to fit what ever BOV you are using not a big deal....if you want a cheep BOV go with a 2nd gen mitsu. eclipe BOV used
NOW....
your next step will be the map sensor witch check's the pressure in the manifold if the PSI is to great the ECU will freak out, now knowing that you are adding boost you know that it will freak....SO the fix for this is take the MAP sensor off and mount it where you want and run a vacume hose between the manifold and the MAP you will have to go to HOMEDEPOT to get a fitting to atach the hose to the manifold unless you are working on a 88-91 SOHC in witch the MAP already has a hose connection, now the reason for the hose, also while at homedeapot pick up a cupler that will have a conection at ether end to to split the hose in the middle and conect the cuppler in the middle now also another impotant trate that the coupler must have is 3 connection's in the middle of it to connect 3 other hose's, conect those 3 hose to the 3 fitting...now while your out on the town picking up parts stop by your local pet store and pick up 3 "tetra valve's" any pet store that sell's fish tank supply will have these once you have all this!!!!! remmember the 3 hose's that i had you conect? well cut each one of those about 1 1/2inch's long and put 1 on each hose simple right? yes,good so what this do's is when you build boost the extra PSi that is built wont go to the MAP sensor and it wont bug out on you!!!!

Now that all that is taken care of and im sure you are taking the time to do it and do it right....right? dont skip step's dumbass.....
now this leave's us with a few other thing's to wrap up such as...
COOLING your turbo!!!!! honda has supply'd a great coolant source for you already!!!! now on your TB there are 2 coolant line's and on the turbo there are 2 coolant port's!!!! do I have to expaint this any further for you??? probibly so here it is....diconect the 2 line's from the TB and conect them to the turbo, now there should water line's that conect into the turbo via "water line's" now these conect to the turbo with "banjo bolt's" these need a "copper" washer on both side's to make a good seal and NO regular washer's wont seal, dont half ass it because I just know that's what your little deprived mind is thinking right now.... and the line that you ARE going to use is fuel line now why is this you ask well I'll tell you if you use somthing like vacume like it will get hot and blow out the line and leave you on the side of the road pissed while your friends and I are laughing at you for being so stupid,so use the fucking fuel line.
and now Oyes there is more you still need to get oil to your turbo and yes once more honda has yet once more given you a oil source right above your oil filter (called a oil presure sending unit) NOW get a high presure line I would use steal braded line seeing as you dont want to lose oil while driving would you? well i would say NO!!!!!but you ask "art where can i get this magical steal braded line?" easy GOODYEAR RUBBER CO. there in the book do your own foot work and look it up slacker....when you get up off your lazy ass and make it there bring your oil presure sending unit (right above your oil filter) it's what you will be taking out to get your oil for your turbo now the reason you want to take it there is they can make a fitting into the braded line to bolt right into the back of the block and then bring your turbo as well so they can make a banjo bolt fittling on the other end of the line so now you have a line that will conect the oil from the block to the turbo. Oya and make sure to have the line made long enough...about 4ft.

NOW HAHAH yes there is more HAHAHA!!!!!!!! IF you have a 92-00 you can get a automatice radiator in place of your 5spd radiator, why you ask??? silly person you know i have a good reason behind this, the 5spd radiator is fine and all BUT the automatice radiator has a extra cooler built in...you can use this to cool off your oil befor it hit's the turbo this is a good thing....just trust me on this ok....soooo now you are asking "but art how can I tell if it's a auto radiator?" fine I'll tell you, at the bottom of the radiator there will be 2 copper nipple's sticking out...hey guess what those are the line's you want to run the oil through!!!!!! and congrade's if you guessed it on your own you now in my eye's are slightly smarter than a monkey sucking it's own cock....
but if you opt not to do this hey it's ok and just conect it as previusly talked about

so this leave's getting the oil back into the engine get 2 fitting's one to conect to the turbo and one for the oil pan now the trick to the oil pan is put the fitting in as high up as you can on the oil pan the oil return MUST be able to gravity drip into the oil pan if it's below the oil level the oil will backup in the turbo and burn out the turbo bearing's thus leaving you with a junk turbo now this take's care of fluides coming in and leaving turbo if you can read I hope you have the space in the lump 3 feet above your ass to take in and understand the listed info above.....

so let's see you still need to know what to do with your exhaust right? of course you do, so it's easy with the turbo you should have also gotten a O2 housing this hold's the O2 and let's you connect the rest of your exhaust to the turbo, so with your O2 use your stock one....yes that's is a given but Im sure there are a few of you out there that where scratching there heads on that one....so for your down pipe get the lower part of a exhaust manifold from a crx you can match that up to "most" turbo O2 housing's and do what you need to connect it to the rest of your exhaust system
now that all that has been typed and my hands are atarting to hurt....
this leave's fuel.....now if you are planing on running waist gate pressure
(around 7 PSI) you can change out yor injector's to accord or prelude injector's just make sure they are the same ODB as your car or they wont work, and to up the fuel PSI get a integra FPR and there's your fuel fix so that was easy also a better fuel pump is sudjested a 190lph

now this leave's a few line's to button up so here we go folk's

now your waist gate acuator has a vaccum line, run a vacum line from there to your IC piping this take's the boost being made and once it reaches the right amount it will open the waist gate and keep you at the proper PSI witch for stock engine's you sholdent go more than 8psi so conect in a boost meter....

And for they BOV run another line into the intake manifold not befor but INTO the mainfold or your can T it off of another vac. source this make's a vac. for the BOV when you let off the gas the TB closes and creat's a vac. for a moment and open's the BOV to releas extra boost left over in the IC pipe and donst back feed it into the turbo (not a good thing to back feed your hard working turbo)

so here are the basic's layed out for you now with this setup dont think you are going to run 20psi...trust me you wont for more than 2sec.LOL
this is only ment for a max of around 8PSI your stock ecu for a MPFI with the fuel upgades I have listed will only be good for the 8psi no more so i will add more later but this should make you think for now
art

 

I thlink joo ne3d to werk on yur spelin and sentence structure, but +1 for making a write up.

 

I could dedicate a Page on my server for this Setup in a way that members can just click through the Information. i have aot of write ups ive done and Have already posted in our old Sticky, there is alot of info in there no One ever takes time to look or knows that its there. But I would Host a Info page if you guys want. Wouldnt have an issue with it.

Actually i am gonna do this and eventually register a domain for it I think itd be a nice reference site.

http://www.section-08.com/HondaGuide/index.html

I have some content so far. If someone would actually like to do some of their Own right ups and have me review and post them I will. Lemme know

 

**Basics of Engine Swaps: what fits in what**

Overview

In order to properly cover every aspect this section will be broken down into many sections. First, its important to decide what you’re goals are. If you’re interested in running 15 second quarter miles without hassle or complication then finding a B16 is probably your best bet. Some of us are interested in running 11 and 12 second quarter miles. For this type of performance it’s important to plan every detail so that the engine is capable and reliable when asked to perform. Another part of planning that should be done before the swap begins is whether or the engine will be naturally aspirated or have forced induction. These are all questions that need to be answered before the swap so that you’re satisfied when everything is complete.

Finding the Proper Engine:

There are many engine choices for each vehicle so we’ll cover all of them. First it’s important to understand that On Board Diagnostics play a large role in which engines are easiest and recommended. All Honda’s 1991 and earlier are considered OBD 0. This means that the engines don’t utilize any oxygen sensors and have little in the way of emissions control. Next there are OBD 1 engines that are found in all cars from 1992-1995. These vehicles have traditionally been the best platform for the most “factory-like” hybrids. Finally, anything from 1996-1998 is OBD 2. 1999-2000 is OBD 2b. It’s also important to remember that its only legal to swap in engines of the same or newer OBD series. That is to say that an OBD2 engine can be placed into a 1988 CRX legally and without many wiring problems. Consequently its illegal in most states to use OBD 0 engines in cars that should have OBD1 or OBD2 power plants. Of course there are people who disregard these laws and regulations but its not recommended or necessarily that easy.

4th Generation:

1. ZC, D16A8, D16A9: Completely Bolt-In Swap.
Transmission: Use ZC/D16A8/D16A9 Tranny
Shift Linkage: Use stock Civic/CRX shift linkage
Axles: Stock Civic/CRX
Wiring: Retain stock harness
Upper Radiator Hose: stock
Lower Radiator Hose: stock
Throttle Cable: stock
*There may be clearance issues with the ZC, either a new hood, trimming of the old hood or trimming the valve cover is required.

2. B16A: Mount kit required
Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1
Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra
Axles: B16A Axles
Wiring: DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection first. To use PR3 or PW0 four wires need to be added, VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, knock sensor and second O2.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
Emissions: Purge cutoff solenoid valve needs to be Teed into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum source.

3. B18A: Mount kit required
Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1
Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra
Axles: B18B Axles
Wiring: For Si, EX, and HF (port injection) models modify the engine harness to fit. DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection. Custom wiring harnesses are available for dual point injection applications from Hasport.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.

OBD1-OBD2 Engine Swaps into 89-91 Civic/CRX

To install an OBD1-OBD2 engine into your 4th Generation Civic/CRX the following adjustments will need to be made. First, if your car has dual point injection a conversion will need to be made to port injection. All Integra's 1994 and up and Civic's 1992 and up all use hydraulic transmissions. Therefore its not compatible with 4th Gen Civic's because these vehicles have cable transmissions. To complete the swap a B-series cable transmission will need to be used or a cable-hydro transmission conversion will need to be made. The left side bracket needs to be changed to a 1990-1993 Integra bracket.
For the ECU, it is best to use the ECU which belongs with the engine. Several wiring adjustments will need to be made to make the engine run correctly.
For LS-VTEC's, CRVTEC's and other Frankenstein's it is easiest to use the ECU that corresponds to the distributor and head. There are also reprogrammed ECU's which can be considered.

4. B17A/B16A2/B16A2/B16B: Mount kit required
Transmission: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket p/n #
ECU: B16A ECU/B17A
Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. The axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01.
Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage.
Wiring: For these engines, you will want the injectors, ECU and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then use Hasport conversion harness p/n #W88-Si-VTEC for the additional wires needed to run VTEC.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
B18C/B18C5: If your engine is a 92-93 B18A or B17A, the one that came with the engine, but for the other engines, any of the cable clutch operated B-series transmission including Japanese or American market S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1. Mounts: Hasport bolt in mount kit p/n #M88-B16-10. For 94 and up engines the timing belt side engine bracket will need to be changed for the 90-93 Acura bracket.
Axles: With a small amount of modification, the axles that come with the engines being transplanted (excluding the B20 engines) will work perfectly in most cases. Click here to see the modification needed. If the axles are from a 94 or later car, the left-hand transmission seal, the one for the intermediate shaft, should be changed for one from a 94 Integra, p/n #91205-PL3-A01.
Shift Linkage: Hasport custom linkage p/n #l88-B16-10 or shortened 90-93 Integra linkage.
Wiring: For this engine, you will want the injectors and distributor from the 89-91 B16A. If your car is an Si, HF, EX the stock harness can be easily modified to fit the engine. Then the VTEC and air intake bypass can be hooked up with the addition of only two wire to the ECU and one to ignition power. For dual point injected motors, Hasport sells a conversion harness to help.
Upper Radiator Hose: 94+ GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 94+ GSR or Type R
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.

5th Generation

1. B16A2/3: Completely bolt-in Swap, VTEC needs to be wired, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol
2. B18B: Completely bolt-in swap, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol
3. B17A: Completely bolt-in swap, cable-hydro transmission kit(not recommended) or hydraulic b-series transmission, VTEC needs to be wired.
4. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
5. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.
6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.
7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired.
8. B16A: Not recommended! Too much work, more costly compared to B16A2/3's.
9. D16Z6: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired.
10. D16Y8: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired.

6th Generation

1. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
2. B16A2: Completely bolt in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
3. B16A3: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired, OBD Conversion.
4. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
5. B18B1: Completely bolt-in swap.
6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired.
7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired.
8. D16Z6: Completely bolt-in, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired.
9. D16Y8: Completely bolt-in, VTEC needs to be wired.

7th Generation

1. K20A2: Completely bolt-in swap, shift linkage needs to be modified.
K24: Mostly bolt-in swap, found in the 2002+ CRV, shift linkage needs to be modified.

General info on swaps and prices

The ZC is widely regarded as the easiest engine to swap into 4th Generation Civics. The positive aspects of this engine include the price; DOHC design, availability and both engines are directly bolt in. The ZC is a Japanese Domestic Market engine and was featured in the CRX Si. And because this engine is D-series it will work with all D-series cable transmissions. The price for these motors can range from 500-750 depending on the source and condition with the transmission being optional. The Si transmission has the best gear ratio and will provide the best acceleration. Other choices include the DX and HF transmissions although the HF transmission is not well suited for high performance driving. Using the ZC transmission makes this swap slightly more complex. First, the axles and intermediate shaft need to be from the ZC or D16A1/3 setup. The computer and On Board Diagnostic's are all OBD 0 and there are several ECU's that can be used. These include the D16A6 ECU (Si), D16A1/3 (Integra), and or the ZC ECU. All have similar fuel cutoffs and with a stock drive train little power will be made above 7000rpm.

The D16Z6 is another inexpensive option that can be installed without much trouble. This motor will bolt right in and can be found for around 600-800 dollars. The positive aspects of this engine include VTEC, availability, and price. Usually with this setup the d16 long block is mated with a cable d-series transmission. There are several options with the ECU. Either the D16Z ECU is used, or the stock ECU is retained and a VTEC controller added. *Remember, all 4th Generation Honda's use cable transmissions while 5th and 6th Generation Honda's use hydraulic transmissions.

The B16A2/3 is the most popular swap and probably yields the best power for the cost. First generation B16's usually cost around 1200-1500 minus the cost of engine mounts. It is important to note that this engine will NOT bolt directly into a 4th generation engine bay. Aftermarket engine mounts from Hasport, Place Racing or self-fabricated mounts will need to be used. The first generation B16 also came stock with a cable transmission and for the complete swap the axles, intermediate shaft, and ECU will be needed.

The B16B is a Japanese Domestic Motor and isn't very popular because of its smaller displacement and price tag. This engine was found in 1998 Civic Type R's and has a design similar to the B18C5. Its intake cam is slightly more aggressive and its compression is slightly higher. However, because of this engine's smaller displacement there it offers less torque. Therefore this engine offers little improvement over a B18C1 and when comparing price tags this engine is quickly dismissed. This engine comes with the same transmission as the ITR and has LSD. If the B16B can be purchased for less than 4000 it would be a great deal. Unfortunately its nearly impossible to find this engine that cheap and its recommended that a B16/B18 is purchased instead.

The B18C1 came in USDM Acura Integra GSR's between the years of 1994-2001. This engine has 170 horsepower and 128lbs of torque, which makes for a very fast daily driven car. For this swap the shift linkage, axles, and ECU will all be needed. Another important aspect of this swap that should be considered is the year of the engine. Post 1995 engines are all OBD2 and this can make for an easier swap. However, its also important to realize that switching a car from OBD1 and OBD2 or vice versa is not as complicated as it sounds. Skunk2 and other companies even make a conversion harness that makes the wiring completely push and plug.

The B17A is widely considered the "black sheep" of Honda B-series engines. This engine came in 1992-1993 Acura Integra GSR's and came with 160hp. However, the increased displacement compared to the B16 added 6 lbs of torque bringing its overall total to 117. To make this swap more complicated it's important to realize that this transmission is cable, not hydraulic, and its OBD is 1. Therefore, a cable to hydro transmission switch is required or the other option finding a hydraulic transmission. However, this engine is a viable option in 4th Generation Civic's and should be considered if found. All that's needed is a mount kit offered by Place Racing or Hasport. Usually these engines are rare and very few engine distributors are selling the B17 due to its unusual characteristics. Prices should range between 1800-2400 for this engine.

The B18C5 came standard in 1997-2001 Integra Type R's. These engines are the highest performance B-series engine offered in the United States and carry the largest price tag. Compared a B18C1 these engines have higher performance camshafts, a lighter valve train and higher compression. In addition its intake manifold is designed for high-end horsepower, which does sacrifice some low-end torque. All of this amounts to 195 horsepower and 128 lbs of torque. The ITR transmission is the most highly sought after transmission coming standard with LSD and having the best final drive. Also, due to the age of these motors and their capability their price ranges between 4600 and 5200.

The H22A is found in Prelude VTEC's and JDM Accord's. This engine comes with 190-220 horsepower and is not considered a great candidate for Civic's and Integra's because of its larger size and weight. Hasport and other companies are making a mount kit for this engine but the geometry of the car is changed dramatically. (The engine and transmission are 85lbs heavier than a GSR motor) However, with the right suspension and some weight reduction the front end can be lightened to the point where the car will be drivable. The benefit's from this engine is its increased low end torque. Unfortunately its very difficult to retain air conditioning and room in the engine bay is at a minimum. Plus, the H-series engines have a poor rod/stroke ratio which translates into less revving capability and less potential with high end horsepower. Overall, this swap is not recommended although it can be done.

The D16Y8 is found in 96+ Civic EX's and Del Sol Si's. This engine is very similar to the D16Z6 but has 2 more horsepower and a square combustion chamber for an increase in compression due to the extra queche area. However, its OBD2 instead of OBD1.

The "Mini-Me" is a hybrid engine that produces around 135hp. This setup is usually made from a DX(1.5liter) bottom end and D16Z6 or D16Y8 VTEC head. Because of the 1.5-liter's excellent rod-stroke ratio this little beast will make power to 8000rpm. Another interesting characteristic is the increased compression that results from this setup. Overall this engine is great for those who have some experience with engine building and can acquire the VTEC head for a good price.

For information on LS/VTEC and CR/VTEC, view our article int he FAQ section.

The K20A2 comes standard in the Acura RSX Type-S. This engine has 200 horsepower and 142lbs of torque and can be bolted into the new Civic Si. However, the Type-S has a 6-speed gear box while the Civic Si comes standard with a 5-speed. There are two ways to account for this change, one is to retain the Civic Si's transmission while the second is modifying the Civic Si's shift linkage so the 6 speed transmission can be used.