kender

here's the setup

88 crx si jdm b16 with obd 1 conversion
hondata s200b, hondalogger, romeditor
blitz sbc id and powermeter
garrett t3/t04e .48/.60 57trim
monza ssqv bov (same as hks ssqv)
2inch pipe from turbo to ic, 2.25inch from ic to tb
tial 38mm wastegate.

I first installed the turbo and it worked great, I got 7 psi by 3-3.5k rpms but then.............I turned it up to 10psi and ......
I was having problems with only getting 4-5psi on my turbo, despite a blitz sbc id setting to 10 psi. well I figured out the screw clamps on the charge pipes weren't tight enough, so I tightened them and they stripped. I just installed t-bolts on it last night and I finally got 8.7 psi, but it took me hitting 7k rpms to get it. when I first installed the turbo I got 7psi at 3-3.5k rpms.

well when I was installing the t-bolts I fould oil in the pipes just after the compressor, so I figured the fucker is leaking past an internal seal, there are no external oil leaks.

I am wondering if it is possible that the compressed air is leaking into the tubo cartridge and out the exhaust side or into the oil drain line, I know it sounds crazy but I can't see a boost leak past t-bolts and the oil leak is the only other problem.

I am going to remove the bov to see if that may be the problem as well. I have already tried to play with the settings on the boost controller but there is no change.

this pisses me off because the turbo was a refurbished unit that had a full rebuild, yet not 200 miles on it and it's leaking oil.

does this sound like it may cause the boost leak issue?

juiced2ndgenteg

NO

kender

then I have 2 problems, what causes the oil leak on a recently refurbished unit.

what else would cause a boost leak?

juiced2ndgenteg

a shitty BOV, and wastegate problems will cause a boost leak. The drain line will cause all kinds of oil burning/leaking problems, if it isnt correctly run. I am running a very similar setup, but with a .63 exhaust housing, 2.5" ic pipe, a HUGE FMIC, a TRUST WG and a really shitty crush bent 2.25" exhaust. I hit .8 bar(~11lbs) at ~5k in 1st & 2nd gear. but in any other gears it hits full boost around 1k-2k sooner. have you tried to disconnect your EBC and run straight WG spring?

kender

yeah one of the things I did first to eliminate that. the spring is for 5.66psi and all I got was 4.4 psi.

I now have a new problem......

you know the breather filter you can put on the valve cover instead of keeping the tube that runs from the valve cover to the intake????

well I have exhaust coming out of that.

I left for work this morning and after the engine got to operating temp I stepped on it and............4.4psi. so I slowed down and decided to try one more time............4.4psi just long enough for me to look at the gauge, then all of a sudden it spiked to 9.8psi and the tires started to hop ( wheel hop) I was already doing like 40mph. so I slowed down and pulled my head out of the back of the seat. and the car all of a sudden wouldn't idle, and I had smoke from under the hood.

all gauges were in the good, no high temps, pressures, etc. the smell of the smoke wasn't sweet so no coolant leak. if I played with the throttle it was fine so I cam home and opened the hood.

I had what smelled like exhaust and could see white smoke coming from the breather. and the car would idle but then the idle would go way down, then back to like 800rpms.

also the breather was soaked in oil.

so tomorrow I am going to run a compression test to see which cylinder has low compression. I don't have any knocking or odd noises, just smoke and erratic idle.

I am thinking that this may be why I didn't see the full potential of the boost, the exhaust and pressured air for at least one cyl. was going into the crank case, so less exhaust flow out means less to spin the turbine.

if anyone can shed some light as to whether I am on the right track please do.

juiced2ndgenteg

I don't want to say this but, that sounds like cracked ring lands on the pistons. a compression test will let you know. what size injectors are you running?

kender

the injectors are 450's.

I did a compression test today and the #3 was the only one above 135 ( 140 ) the rest were like 90-110. then with a few squirts of oil #3 went up to 160 and the rest between 140-155.

so the rings are bad. now I have to rebuild the engine and in the mean time drive around a stock hb.........but once the rebuild is done I'll be pushing 20+ psi.

juiced2ndgenteg

damn thats shitty. well good luck with the rebuild. the rings were prob. the boost problem the whole time.

kender

that's what I am thinking I mean shove 4.4 psi past the rings and into the crank case and that would definately back up the turbo oil drain and cause the oil leak from the turbo, also that means less exhaust flow out to drive the turbo. and to think I was to the point of almost turning to a supercharger since the damn turbo wouldn't put out more than 9.8 psi max.

the motor rebuild may take a little bit but I am hoping that parting out the crx ( or selling whole if someone wants it without a motor/trans) will help fund some of the rebuild.

it would fund all of it if I was going oem, but I am sleeving, 9:1 or 9.5:1 cr pistons, rods, balanced crank, arp studs. basically a motor built for 40+ psi ( I only want 20-25psi max and 15psi daily). of course then the tranny will need attention but that's the project that keeps on giving.

so if you have any input when the ?'s come up on here ( which they will as the build goes on) please feel free to help out.

thanks