need help wiring this pain in my ass.

red= 12v(i know how to hook this up)
black=ground(i know how to hook this up)
white=analog output, connects to any auxillary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input. (i have no idea where this goes)
blue=serial output, connects to a rs-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging.(i have no idea where this wire goes)

in addition to knowing where those two wires go, doesnt this thing hook up to the stock wiring harness? all it has is the connection from the A/F guage to the o2 sensor, and the connection from the guage to the four wires i posted above. doesnt the ecu have to read the o2 sensor as well? i dont see how this could be connected to stock wiring harness or ecu. please help the wiring challenged.

 

should be power, gound and then run to the gauge. you will continue to run your current o2 and this will just go into a secondary o2 bung (most test pipes have one).

-Mike

 

i dont have another o2 bung, does this mean i have to have it tapped? i thought this replaced the existing o2 sensor.

 

ok, if i take out the stock o2 and put this one in its place, am i going to throw codes and my engine run like crap?

 

whats up buddy!

hey you need to find out if the gauge (which im sure it does) has a narrowband output, which should be the white wire,

what you will have to do is depin the stock o2 heater cause you dont want this thing to be heated up with another source, then you will have to find your o2 input wire coming from the o2 sensor into your ecu (im not sure on the accords what it is)

you will need to cut the o2 input wire and wire in your white wire, this will give the ecu a narrowband reading, also on my PLX-M300 model you had to put in a small resistor in that wire, you might wanna jump on the net and find out if you do

 

thanks

 

I have that same gauge on my crx with a b16 and I use it as my only o2. the red is 12v switched, black is ground ( which you already have) the white is the 0-5 v output ( or you can select the output on the back of the gauge to read a lower range I.E. 0-2v or 0-1v) if your ecu reads the stock o2 as 0-5v then leave the adjusment to p0 ( as it was out of the box) if the ecu reads smaller the adjust to an apropriate range, I have hondata so the 0-5v worked for me.

once you have that, the white wire is connected to your ecu o2 sensor SIGNAL input wire ( not sure what the color code is on yours but someone else mabe able to shed some light) and just unpluging your stock o2 will prevent the stock wire from getting a signal, so you don't have to cut the wire you can solder or splice onto it. for the o2 sensor heater cel that your asking about, take a 1k ohm 1/8 watt ( at least 1/4 watt prefered)resistor (radioshack extreemly cheap) and either at the ecu or at the o2 plug connect the resistor to the 2 wires that go to the heater control ( one power and one ground). the resistor will let the ecu see a load and fool it to think the heater is good. This worked perfect in my car until I found out where to turn it off in the hondata editor.

the blue wire is not used.

also if you have problems with the car hesitating at a constant rpm and find you have to increase rpms to stop it or turn off the car and then back on again, its the wideband, you will need to have your rom reflashed to run in open loop mode. I had this problem and no one at aem had a clue, but I noticed while tuning it didn't have this problem, so I have been running in open loop for over a month and no problems.

pm if you need anymore help.

 

What up Corey, finally starting to install all the goodies. goodluck