I have the list of colors I need for the Main and Rod bearings using the helms and the chart. Just want to make sure that iam doing this right..


The letters stamped on the block FOR EXSAMPLE C B B C B
the numbers stamped on the crank FOR EXSAMPLE 2 3 2 2 2
C+2=Yellow etc.. ?

So whatever is stamped on the rods exsample 2 2 2 3 letters will be stamped on the crank to get the right bearing size for that rod - journal size?

Also how do I know what rod is for what cylinder number because when I took them out I didn't keep track of what rod came out of what cylinder. I figured if its getting new bearings it wouldn't matter since whats going to be placed on the rod to crank readings its going to give me the correct size bearings for the picticular match journal rod size?

 

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another question is when everything is assembled, How can I kinda feel if the bearings are to tight when rotating the crankshaft manually. If its to loose or to tight. Will there be some drag?

 

you must make sure your Tq specs are all right when doing it and use LUBE the put the 17/19mm crank bolt back in you should be able to turn it as for size i dont no ask Kj i use aftermarket bearings i think the number and letters stamped on the crank and block are mains and the ones the rods aare of course rods

 

what is your reason for changing the bearings? just to freshin up, or did you have rods knocking? if you had knocking, you need to check your crank and rods for wear and damage. if they're worn then you should go with a crank kit, and get you rods resized at a machine shop. either way you should go with after market bearings and then you wont have to worry bout all them special sized oem bearings. also you should check your bearing fit with plastiguage, then you'll be sure it's right.

 

plastiguage +1

 

yea thats what iam using. I just want to know if there is going to be some amount of drag when turning the crank? I don't know if this is true but it should kinda give me a feel if the bearings are to tight or loose. But thats all on top of using the plastigauge.

So the letters on the block will be matched with the numbers on the crank. And the Numbers on the rods go with the letters on the crank to get the correct bearing size.

 

there will be 5 numbers and 4 letters on the crank. the letters corespond to the rods and the numbers corespond to the letters on the block. match them up and then you'll get the size bearing that is called for. before FINAL assembly plastigauge all the bearings. honda has the bearing clearence's set pretty tight. .020 is getting on the loose side. you should shoot for between .015 and .020. for BOTH the rods and the mains. and remember the $150 oil pump is the only thing that will save bearings. so don't skimp in that department. also there should be little to no drag on the crank when JUST the mains are bolted down and lubed up. when you install the pistons and rods there WILL be some drag from the rings. but it should NEVER be a struggle to turn it over with a wrench(on the crank pulley bolt). I hope this helps.

 

+1 on a vtec oil pump it is a must

 

alright thanks. I guess iam putting to much thought into this. Its alot easier then I thought it was going to turn out to be. Thanks everyone for your help.