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Adjustable KYB AGX Settings

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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 02:44 AM
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Default Adjustable KYB AGX Settings

we have a 2000 si Turbo, we went with Neuspeed Springs and AGX adjustables. when we go to the track in Gainesville you might only be able to pull like 3 runs if your luckly cause its so busy, My questions is since im limited on time what should i start the front off with stiffness wise, and also the rear, we dont have alot of time to experiment so can anyone help me with whats a good starting point to help with traction. the front are 4 way adjustable(1 being soft and 4 hard) and 8 way on the rear(1 being soft and 8 being hard) all help is appreciated
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 04:28 AM
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pm bodyrollin' or aim him at yourlocalgod71 he is great at this stuff!
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I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 05:14 AM
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You want to keep the weight on the front wheels to help with traction.
Probably start full 8 in the rear, and 2 up front?
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 07:50 AM
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most people would tell you to start with the rears really stiff and the fronts pretty soft...however, with most struts that only have one adjustment that controls both bound and rebound proportionatly when you set them "stiff" it increases the bound resistance and decreases the strength of the rebound, the reason it does that is because if the strut does not rebound it wont have much/any suspension load time and thus helps when cornering by keeping the suspension loaded. so the same concept would apply when drag racing i would think, if your front is stiff it will stay loaded, thus (in theory) reducing wheel hop, and i would prolly start with the rears at medium, and increase from there as you feel necessary. now mind you that my expertise lies in the cornering ability of cars and how to set them up for that, but what i said is a pretty sound theory, you should try it, i dont see why anything about the strut would change just because it is going straight instead of turning....


oh and if you have any further questions feel free to PM me or IM me like angela said, and my screen name is yourlocalgod718 (she forgot the 8)
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 08:18 AM
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Originally posted by BodyRollin'
oh and if you have any further questions feel free to PM me or IM me like angela said, and my screen name is yourlocalgod718 (she forgot the
dayum me to hell
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if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point ...91 SMF SCCA

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
TR "Old Skool EF" Member #017 chi town brat TR "eg6" crew #6

I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production
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Old Mar 18, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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i had agx's in my gsr rex and i had the back stiff as possible. i would keep the front medium and try to stiffen them and if it doens't help then try going softer.
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