Hard Motor Break-In
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Hard Motor Break-In
I was reading the post on the Hard Motor Break-In and i was wondering if anyone had did it and what the results were.. also i would like to know what people think about this concept
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i think u should break in the motor according to how u will be driving it if u plan on racing alot beat it up on break in every motor i have built i beat up and i never have any problems just my 2 cents good luck
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Originally posted by Vapor
as someone who's followed many a motor from build up to part out, I can tell you that 80% of the "break in" is in fact done in the first 20 minutes. I've watched compression jump 100 points from before starting it to just after and then 20 mins of high idle time later, it's at near perfect levels. After seating the rings, there is nothing else to break in. Bearings begin wearing and heading towards replacement the minute you turn the crank. Gaskets either seal or don't. There is either oil pressure, or there isn't. Valve sealing is done at the machine shop. By the time your rings seal completely (about 100-150 miles plus a few WOT runs), valve springs and cams have also worn past any casting flaws or fatigue stresses.
as someone who's followed many a motor from build up to part out, I can tell you that 80% of the "break in" is in fact done in the first 20 minutes. I've watched compression jump 100 points from before starting it to just after and then 20 mins of high idle time later, it's at near perfect levels. After seating the rings, there is nothing else to break in. Bearings begin wearing and heading towards replacement the minute you turn the crank. Gaskets either seal or don't. There is either oil pressure, or there isn't. Valve sealing is done at the machine shop. By the time your rings seal completely (about 100-150 miles plus a few WOT runs), valve springs and cams have also worn past any casting flaws or fatigue stresses.
i dont believe the process is very important as whichever way you decide to do it will 99% of the time yield the same exact results. i say just give the motor a little bit of load early so the rings can see some heat and get some thermal expansion seating. is say moderate or hard driving is the best way to do it, i am totally against grandma'ing it around to break it in. i noticed with my motor that it smoked for the first 10min after start up then wetn away while i was driving it and then when i gave the motor some load it smoked again. after a couple hundred miles no more smoking and ~6-7% leakdown across the board. just make sure the rings get a little heat early. also, make sure u change the oil/filter early
PS, this all referring to a motor with forged internals not oem. oem clearances are so tight i dont even think it matters
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my new motor is getting broken in on the dyno.... 
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I've been seeing a lot of people doing a hard break-in with success. My last motor, I followed the Helm's break-in, which is much more gentle. Compression was perfect at 240psi across all 4 cyclinders. However, I think I'm going to try a hard break in with the next setup. 1000 miles is just too damn long.
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ok now if your building the motor and your going to put a turbo on it...... should you put the turbo on for break in or should yo wait until its already broke in?
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ok that answers my question.....i didnt think it would matter just making sure thanks for everyones comments and help
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