lsvtec questions..
Ok so I have a block and its all stock. I take it apart and just remains a bare block. Its a b18a1 what do I need to do to get the .25 itr pistons to fit? what mm bore does it need to be at? And where is engine lab in tampa?
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WTB:A clean 90-91 civic hatchback. Red or black or white in color. Good exterior. Looking to spend around $2,000.
WTB:A clean 90-91 civic hatchback. Red or black or white in color. Good exterior. Looking to spend around $2,000.
First you need to get the pistons, they won't bore it without having the pistons. And also I would use b16 pistons instead of ITR they yield a higher compression, then the ITR's. Just bring them the pistons (make sure you order them .25 over) and bring them to the machine shop and tell them that you want them to bore it .25 over. And have them inspect the block, and see if it needs to be decked. It's probably a good idea to look into ARP Rod bolts also, which need to be pressed into the rods. ARP Rod bolts will make it alot safer to be revving higher.
thanks matt. When I order the pistons is there a way to tell if its the .25 oversized ones or not? Like a marking? Also Do you know where in Tampa engine lab is?
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WTB:A clean 90-91 civic hatchback. Red or black or white in color. Good exterior. Looking to spend around $2,000.
WTB:A clean 90-91 civic hatchback. Red or black or white in color. Good exterior. Looking to spend around $2,000.
The arp rod bolts, do I take those to the place that is going to shotpend the ls rods?
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WTB:A clean 90-91 civic hatchback. Red or black or white in color. Good exterior. Looking to spend around $2,000.
WTB:A clean 90-91 civic hatchback. Red or black or white in color. Good exterior. Looking to spend around $2,000.
Yes take the rodbolts to the machine shop, to have them pressed in and resized. I can't remember which ARP rod bolts you need but im almost positive there the 9mm ones. And I don't suggest using CTR pistons bc your comp will be dangerously high, and theres a chance they may pop out of the top of the block. Its not worth the extra 2-3whp you will gain from using the CTR pistons. And Im not exactly sure where engine lab is but I know its somewhere in the ybor area.
And yes theres a small marking on the top of the pistons that will have an arrow and then .25 marking the .25 over piston.
Heres a picture of my pistons when I got them from honda, if you look close you can see the .25 stamp on the top.
And yes theres a small marking on the top of the pistons that will have an arrow and then .25 marking the .25 over piston.
Heres a picture of my pistons when I got them from honda, if you look close you can see the .25 stamp on the top.
Originally posted by RaIn.
Yes take the rodbolts to the machine shop, to have them pressed in and resized. I can't remember which ARP rod bolts you need but im almost positive there the 9mm ones. And I don't suggest using CTR pistons bc your comp will be dangerously high, and theres a chance they may pop out of the top of the block. Its not worth the extra 2-3whp you will gain from using the CTR pistons. And Im not exactly sure where engine lab is but I know its somewhere in the ybor area.
And yes theres a small marking on the top of the pistons that will have an arrow and then .25 marking the .25 over piston.
Heres a picture of my pistons when I got them from honda, if you look close you can see the .25 stamp on the top.
Yes take the rodbolts to the machine shop, to have them pressed in and resized. I can't remember which ARP rod bolts you need but im almost positive there the 9mm ones. And I don't suggest using CTR pistons bc your comp will be dangerously high, and theres a chance they may pop out of the top of the block. Its not worth the extra 2-3whp you will gain from using the CTR pistons. And Im not exactly sure where engine lab is but I know its somewhere in the ybor area.
And yes theres a small marking on the top of the pistons that will have an arrow and then .25 marking the .25 over piston.
Heres a picture of my pistons when I got them from honda, if you look close you can see the .25 stamp on the top.
Pop out of the block??? Maybe i am retarded but i have never heard of this. People use that setup all of the time. . . Fast people. And it would be more than 2-3 hp.
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onecattyKat: everybody wants colby
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He doesn't mean literally pop out of the block, if the dome is too high, and the stroke too long, your going to smack the piston against the valves. Have the block clay tested (What's the real name for this procedure?) at Engine lab before you run this setup.


