98hciv

I just wanted to see what you guys think. I did a ls/vtec in a 98 ex. Dont be to hard on me I did all the work my self.

Here is the list: b18a block, shot peened ls rods on usdm itr pistons, b16 head with full port and polish, 3 angle valve job, stock A2 cams, port matched intake manifold, port and polished h22 throttle body, mitsubishi 390cc injectors, lightened ls flywheel , gsr pressure plate, centerforce stage 2 clutch disc, si tranny, and a p61 ecu. Im sure there is stuff I left out but I ended up spending like 5 grand on all this so you get the picture.

Miles

let me know how those injectors work out for you... debating whether to use those or some rc's...

98hciv

its in!

98hciv

IM

Sunrise City Rider

Thats awesome dude...Keep up the great work...Learn from what you did and improve...Don't think you know it all from this but it seems that since you want criticism, you are not all uppidity like other Honda heads that turned a wrench once or twice...

Did you use ARP Rod Bolts? If not, I strongly suggest you do and ARP Head Studs or at least new Head Bolts...

What electronics do you plan on using? Since you have the P61, which is the 92-93 b17a/GSR ECU, you should put a knock sensor in the LS block and use its feature as a precaution to prevent detonation...

I suggest a Fuel Pressure Regulator with Fuel Pressure Gauge...Turn the Fuel Pressure down to about 40psi at idle and use a V-AFC to tune on a dyno...

Did you plastigage the bearings? If so what did you find? Did you use overbore Pistons?

Be sure to break in the motor with 10w30 cheap oil and do so for about 500miles...Take it easy and you will have a long lasting high power/high torque daily driver...Keep the REVs under 8500RPM...Run an Oil Cooler to keep the oil temps down and invest in an Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, Air Fuel, and Volt Gauges...

Zee

98hciv

now its in

98hciv

I will let you know how the injectors work, and to sun city rider thanks for the kind words. I tried to use arp rod bolts but couldnt get the damn stock ones out. I think it was because they were in there when the rods were shot peened, but I did use arp head bolts. I did kinda skip a couple of things like the knock sensor and fpr, vafc and a few others that you mentioned but Ill have all that soon, I just wanted my car back too bad. One question though, why should I use cheap oil to break it in instead of synthetic?

GLintch

It's not "cheap oil" it's the REAL oil - what the engine really needs anyways. The engine needs to be lubricated with real oil first, nice and easily.

Then you can pour some synthetic oil in and rev it hard, hope this helps.

It's like an athlete - feed it whole milk when it's a baby - then throw some Gatoraid/Poweraid and make him run the track!

Sunrise City Rider

The Cheap oil will not contain all the additives you want for longterm wear protection...Thats what you want to speed up the break in period...You want the metal to find its sweet spot as soon as possible so you can move on to driving it as you normally would...I will stay away from synthetic and instead run a High Quality 20w50 weight oil after the breakin period...There really is no reason for you to run Synthetic oil on your setup...Save your money for a set of cams and suspension...

Zee

98hciv

thanks, I will do that. Anyone want to buy five quarts of castrol syntec lol