coasting in neutral
legend behind the cowl
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,840
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no i know the energy isnt there compared to gasoline, the higher SCR was what i was going to use to gear the car more toward straight E85 use and not a flex fuel. but with more SCR, i can make more volumetric efficiency. start tweaking the DCR aswell and i can make more power too
and i cannot find any E85 station near me here in south pinellas.
and i cannot find any E85 station near me here in south pinellas.
If there was one in pinellas I'd be running the big injectors 24/7 and have my tune 100% but your right it's not there.
PSSHHH x2
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 14,291
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i contemplated making my own but im not sure if it'd be cost effective.
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El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
legend behind the cowl
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 0
I have a column Still and a benchtop "lab still" neither one can produce anhydrous ethanol without post production. I can get the cost down to under $2 a gallon, paying retail for sugar as my feed stock. - I have the Fuel Ethanol producers license. it's a free license. but I just can't justify making it when gasoline is the same price. now if I had access to a local sugar mill and could buy wast products cheap perhaps that $2 could be closer to $1.
isuck
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 491
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I can understand how people misspell my name when they only hear it spoken... but I'll never understand why people get it wrong on a forum. 
Your fuel injection system should maintain a nearly constant fuel pressure at the fuel rail at all times. This is pressure, NOT flow. The fuel injectors pulse on and off to provide fuel to the engine. Keeping the pressure constant, the ECU can precisely control the timing of the injector pulses and know precisely how much fuel is being delivered at any given time. Cool, huh?
If you have DFCO and actually engage it, the GPH should drop to absolute zero because the fuel injectors have stopped pulsing altogether. (but you'll still have that constant fuel pressure there and ready for when the ECU decides the engine needs fuel)
It's exactly like closing the nozzle on the end of a water hose. When you close it, water stops flowing, but there's STILL water pressure in the hose behind the nozzle.
Your fuel injection system should maintain a nearly constant fuel pressure at the fuel rail at all times. This is pressure, NOT flow. The fuel injectors pulse on and off to provide fuel to the engine. Keeping the pressure constant, the ECU can precisely control the timing of the injector pulses and know precisely how much fuel is being delivered at any given time. Cool, huh?
If you have DFCO and actually engage it, the GPH should drop to absolute zero because the fuel injectors have stopped pulsing altogether. (but you'll still have that constant fuel pressure there and ready for when the ECU decides the engine needs fuel)
It's exactly like closing the nozzle on the end of a water hose. When you close it, water stops flowing, but there's STILL water pressure in the hose behind the nozzle.
I deserve that, I'm sorry, I just typed it in a rush based off how I "spell" it in my head when I say it.
My apologies Loren.
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LOGIC? You seriously want to invoke logic in a conversation about fake hijackings, missiles hitting the pentagon, and bombs planted throughout the world trade center? I thought it was a given that logic was checked at the door when entering one of these threads.
Now there's some logic!
PSSHHH x2
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 14,291
Likes: 0
I have a column Still and a benchtop "lab still" neither one can produce anhydrous ethanol without post production. I can get the cost down to under $2 a gallon, paying retail for sugar as my feed stock. - I have the Fuel Ethanol producers license. it's a free license. but I just can't justify making it when gasoline is the same price. now if I had access to a local sugar mill and could buy wast products cheap perhaps that $2 could be closer to $1.
__________________
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 65
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My car is rated for 19 mpg in the city. I got 18 driving normal. Then after trying hard to save gas, when I filled the tank, I discovered I got 21 mpg. Basically I've been coasting as much as possible and have been accelerating from lights at only about 2,000 rpm most of the time (even slower in the neighborhood), which, believe it or not, is not old fart slow acceleration. I've also been using the cruise control all the time, it's surprising how much lower it keeps your RPM.
I've been almost late for college at least 5 times, and I've also goofed around with sports mode on Klosterman at least 5 times, and I've not coasted to lights many times because of people right on my tail, so I think there's even more room for improvement. Also I could cruise through corners a little faster to keep momentum, and maybe roll a little through some stop signs (that's a big ticket though if you get caught).
Any suggestions on tire pressure? I've always been keeping them 5 psi under the max inflation, but would it help mpg to put them to the max recommended psi? Thanks.
I've been almost late for college at least 5 times, and I've also goofed around with sports mode on Klosterman at least 5 times, and I've not coasted to lights many times because of people right on my tail, so I think there's even more room for improvement. Also I could cruise through corners a little faster to keep momentum, and maybe roll a little through some stop signs (that's a big ticket though if you get caught).
Any suggestions on tire pressure? I've always been keeping them 5 psi under the max inflation, but would it help mpg to put them to the max recommended psi? Thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,824
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If possible, try to find a route with either less traffic, or fewer stops. A route that will let you cruise at a more constant speed.
You can actually get better mileage (if you train yourself to do so) without cruise control. The cruise control is dumb. All it want's to do is maintain your speed within about a +/- 2 mph window. It can't read the terrain and know that adding a few mph at the crest of a hill and coasting for a few seconds after is a great way to improve economy.
I've found that for typical city driving trips, as long as I keep a fairly light foot, I'll see a gain of .1 mpg for every 3 second coast that I can sneak into a drive. If you have hills or overpasses, use them to your advantage. If you have a road to yourself, take that opportunity to gently speed up an extra 5 mph and then coast down to 5 mph under your target. As long as you're gentle with acceleration, you'll see a gain from the coast. And, of course, if you're IN traffic, learn to read the traffic so that you can build your coasting into the traffic flow.
21 isn't bad for a car rated at 19... but there's at least 23-24 in it without trying too hard. My wife's MINI Cooper is rated (new EPA ratings) at 23, and she's getting around 27-28. She's learned to drive a little smarter, but she's far from being a "hypermiler".
You can actually get better mileage (if you train yourself to do so) without cruise control. The cruise control is dumb. All it want's to do is maintain your speed within about a +/- 2 mph window. It can't read the terrain and know that adding a few mph at the crest of a hill and coasting for a few seconds after is a great way to improve economy.
I've found that for typical city driving trips, as long as I keep a fairly light foot, I'll see a gain of .1 mpg for every 3 second coast that I can sneak into a drive. If you have hills or overpasses, use them to your advantage. If you have a road to yourself, take that opportunity to gently speed up an extra 5 mph and then coast down to 5 mph under your target. As long as you're gentle with acceleration, you'll see a gain from the coast. And, of course, if you're IN traffic, learn to read the traffic so that you can build your coasting into the traffic flow.
21 isn't bad for a car rated at 19... but there's at least 23-24 in it without trying too hard. My wife's MINI Cooper is rated (new EPA ratings) at 23, and she's getting around 27-28. She's learned to drive a little smarter, but she's far from being a "hypermiler".
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15 seconds EXHILARATION
Joined: Jun 2002
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Coasting in traffic is really tricky. I was playing around with it for a little while, looking way ahead and coasting up to lights, trying to keep as much speed as possible while timing it to hit the light when traffic started to move. Then I almost got rear-ended by some guy who was intent on going 60 mph until the last possible moment before slamming on his brakes for the red light. I still try to look ahead and coast up to lights to a certain extent, but I will get back on the gas if I drop more than 10-15 mph below the people zooming up to the light around me. Coasting at 30 mph while others are still doing 60 royally pisses people off and is asking for major accident damage to the rear of your car.
