WS6 or SS
Thread Starter
I <3 your mom
Joined: Mar 2002
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WS6 or SS
Well heres the deal i have two cars right now and im thinking about selling both and going with something newer. But im really torn between a WS6 and a SS? I have always loved the WS6 but im not sure which would be the bet way to go, i need some help 
. I know the SS will be cheaper and lighter and just as fast if not more. I will be getting a 6 speed on either one. I also want a LS1 so those came in the 98 and up i think? Also i will have close to 5K to put into the car right after i get it. So im looking to put half of that money into getting the car to hook and ride good. The rest into making will be getting her to go alittle faster. So what mods should i get first? From reading on your forum it looks like the rearend is pretty weak so im thinking thats where some of the money would go and plus i would throw some gears in there too. What is the best gears for a 6 speed? Im not to worried about gas im getting a job amost 3 miles from my house. Blue98TA is Shawn that works with me at UOE and im in love with his ride so that is my turning point to go to a real car.
thanks for any help
Rich
. I know the SS will be cheaper and lighter and just as fast if not more. I will be getting a 6 speed on either one. I also want a LS1 so those came in the 98 and up i think? Also i will have close to 5K to put into the car right after i get it. So im looking to put half of that money into getting the car to hook and ride good. The rest into making will be getting her to go alittle faster. So what mods should i get first? From reading on your forum it looks like the rearend is pretty weak so im thinking thats where some of the money would go and plus i would throw some gears in there too. What is the best gears for a 6 speed? Im not to worried about gas im getting a job amost 3 miles from my house. Blue98TA is Shawn that works with me at UOE and im in love with his ride so that is my turning point to go to a real car. thanks for any help
Rich
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Glad Shawn could influence you.
First thing first. Do Free mods like TB bypass, EGR delete is optional (i havent done it), descreen the MAF (might throw an SES light might not)...
The Hurst shifter that comes in the car is nice... but a pro 5.0 or ripper would keep u from ever bending a 3rd gear shift fork.
Subframe connectors is the first mod u should get. Improve ride quality, less rattles, etc.
Get rid of the ugly exhaust tips and get some corsa or borla tips.. keep the slp exhaust if u like it.
Some rearends last some dont. I havent seen any of teh bad rap members bust there rearends yet. My LT1 has much more low end torque and im running drag radials. Buy a TA girdle and u should be perfectly fine under 450hp and torque. If you buy a pre 2001 model you might want to invest into the L6 intake.
I'd get a WS6 or SS without the supension package and put in some Bilstein HD's (im doing this right now) along with a 32mm front sway bar... leave the 19mm in the back alone. The SLP bilsteins aren't valved for the stock spring height... they are more so engineered to work with the 21mm sway bar put in the back... The wrong valve set up is costing the SS and WS6 improved Skip pad and slalom numbers.
Switch out all fluids to synthetic, sea foam the engine, do your basic tune up...
All of these mods are pretty easy except for changing the shocks.. There are tons of other things you could do but these mods are extremely safe, improve life of the car, and driving experience. They are a place to start and work with almost any future combo u want.
First thing first. Do Free mods like TB bypass, EGR delete is optional (i havent done it), descreen the MAF (might throw an SES light might not)...
The Hurst shifter that comes in the car is nice... but a pro 5.0 or ripper would keep u from ever bending a 3rd gear shift fork.
Subframe connectors is the first mod u should get. Improve ride quality, less rattles, etc.
Get rid of the ugly exhaust tips and get some corsa or borla tips.. keep the slp exhaust if u like it.
Some rearends last some dont. I havent seen any of teh bad rap members bust there rearends yet. My LT1 has much more low end torque and im running drag radials. Buy a TA girdle and u should be perfectly fine under 450hp and torque. If you buy a pre 2001 model you might want to invest into the L6 intake.
I'd get a WS6 or SS without the supension package and put in some Bilstein HD's (im doing this right now) along with a 32mm front sway bar... leave the 19mm in the back alone. The SLP bilsteins aren't valved for the stock spring height... they are more so engineered to work with the 21mm sway bar put in the back... The wrong valve set up is costing the SS and WS6 improved Skip pad and slalom numbers.
Switch out all fluids to synthetic, sea foam the engine, do your basic tune up...
All of these mods are pretty easy except for changing the shocks.. There are tons of other things you could do but these mods are extremely safe, improve life of the car, and driving experience. They are a place to start and work with almost any future combo u want.
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You can do almost anything with 5K...I'll give you the URFUCT budget race plan. I would try to get an 01 and up(better intakes, clutches, injectors), throw some Nitto's on it and control arms with relocation brackets, panhard rod, and strut tower and you should hook fine, at least I did with 500lbs of torque at the wheels. BMR fabrication is local and they hook you up when its cash. I paid less than $300 for all of the suspension, I don't have subframes although I should cause it's a great investment like previously said. I would also get some springs to lower it, then add a lid, mass air sensor, ported throttle body, cut-out on stock exhaust, and all the free (cheap mods) like tb coolant bypass, air temp sensor, clutch drill out mod. With that you car will run, look, handle and sound better and you have'nt even spent $1500. You can do a mild heads/cam and spray and run close to 10's with the money left over. I would'nt worry to much about the rear end until it breaks, I have a complete used one here with 3.73's already in it for when mine breaks and I picked it up for $250, which is almost 1/10 what a 12 bolt would cost.
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Pretty simple choice , in your eyes which one looks better?? Choose the cleaner car ie... miles ,paint, interior etc. These guys seem to know what they are talking about so follow their advise on the mods!
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ive driven a lot of W6S's and SS's in a slightly bumpy lot. The Trans Ams seem to rattle more than the SS's and Firebirds. I dont like the way it sounds when the lights come down or go up on the F-body. makes it sound kinda junky in my opinion. The C5's are quiet.. why couldnt they have done the same with the f bodies?
I dont like the clutch feel on the LS1's. They went back to a push style clutch/tranny engage. It feels kinda wimpy and loose. Maybe doing the clutch slave cylinder mod (what urfuct said) helps give it a more agressive feel???
Personally i like the Trans Am WS6 look the best but the SS's and Firebird WS6's ive driven seem to ride better. The firebirds/transams also look like they have a better shot of air, the way the induction is set up.
I dont like the clutch feel on the LS1's. They went back to a push style clutch/tranny engage. It feels kinda wimpy and loose. Maybe doing the clutch slave cylinder mod (what urfuct said) helps give it a more agressive feel???
Personally i like the Trans Am WS6 look the best but the SS's and Firebird WS6's ive driven seem to ride better. The firebirds/transams also look like they have a better shot of air, the way the induction is set up.
Thread Starter
I <3 your mom
Joined: Mar 2002
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Seriously thanks guys, Im thinking about just going out and driving both and seeing with car feels better and drives better. oh and what is everyoves insurance rates under 25 
like me
like me
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Thread Starter
I <3 your mom
Joined: Mar 2002
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Originally posted by "BlackZ28"
im 20, drive a 96 Z and i pay $170 a month try and beat that
im 20, drive a 96 Z and i pay $170 a month
try and beat that
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