planning a project, advice needed
Originally Posted by Fordified
The problem with a 377 is finding a 400 block that is buildable. They are expensive nowdays. And I've never been a fan of bearing spacers, especially at high RPM's.
Originally Posted by Fordified
The problem with a 377 is finding a 400 block that is buildable. They are expensive nowdays. And I've never been a fan of bearing spacers, especially at high RPM's.
good blocks are getting really hard to find. i found one that still had the oem piston in it and cross hashes. not letting that one go for shit lol.
as for bearing spacers seeing she he doesn't have a crank already. cheap after maket ones from like scat and places like that are a better choise.
i always wanted to build a 377 but its hard to not just do a 406...ya know.
as you can see... this all snowballs really quick money wise and for the price your going to put into a stock block to clean it up. the aftermarket ones are getting cheap and can go about as big as you want and not worry about anyting. seen some of the mags put together 460ci small blocks out of them
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alright getting closer to a final plan here, going 355...
4 bolt main iron block
4.030 wiseco flat-top pistons/rings
eagle h-beam rods
trickflow r-series heads
edelbrock victor jr. single plane intake
same zex kit
1 3/4" long tube headers
couple questions i've come up with after spending all day browsing summit... what rocker arms should i be looking at? any difference between steel and chromoly pushrods? what the hell is the difference between single and double roller timing sets?
4 bolt main iron block
4.030 wiseco flat-top pistons/rings
eagle h-beam rods
trickflow r-series heads
edelbrock victor jr. single plane intake
same zex kit
1 3/4" long tube headers
couple questions i've come up with after spending all day browsing summit... what rocker arms should i be looking at? any difference between steel and chromoly pushrods? what the hell is the difference between single and double roller timing sets?
chromoly pushrods are stronger and maybe lighter but not sure about that. stronger means they don't flex as much with big springs at high rpm. there a good thing...
double roller timing sets are wider and have to rows of rollers not just one. so there better and last longer. get the double
talk to the tech guys where you buy rockers at. they have to clear the spring retainers at full lift. so it depends on what cam and what springs. but most can be grinded to clear anyways if needed. and your going to be spinning this 355 pretty good i think. should sound real nice about 6800 to 7k
double roller timing sets are wider and have to rows of rollers not just one. so there better and last longer. get the double
talk to the tech guys where you buy rockers at. they have to clear the spring retainers at full lift. so it depends on what cam and what springs. but most can be grinded to clear anyways if needed. and your going to be spinning this 355 pretty good i think. should sound real nice about 6800 to 7k
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Originally Posted by ???
chromoly pushrods are stronger and maybe lighter but not sure about that. stronger means they don't flex as much with big springs at high rpm. there a good thing...
double roller timing sets are wider and have to rows of rollers not just one. so there better and last longer. get the double
talk to the tech guys where you buy rockers at. they have to clear the spring retainers at full lift. so it depends on what cam and what springs. but most can be grinded to clear anyways if needed. and your going to be spinning this 355 pretty good i think. should sound real nice about 6800 to 7k
double roller timing sets are wider and have to rows of rollers not just one. so there better and last longer. get the double
talk to the tech guys where you buy rockers at. they have to clear the spring retainers at full lift. so it depends on what cam and what springs. but most can be grinded to clear anyways if needed. and your going to be spinning this 355 pretty good i think. should sound real nice about 6800 to 7k
LT4 Block - accepts old school heads
Dart Aluminum 2.08 Heads / or similar but less $$ I know the Dart heads are $$$
.600 lift cam , 290 duration @50
I'd go full roller but Hydraulic is way cheaper
Dart Single Plain High Rise intake / or the Edelbrock for $$$
750 Double Pumper with 50cc Accel pumps
.030 over SRP 11:1 , Nitrous rings
Eagle H-Beam 6" rods
SCAT Crank
Built TH350 9" 4500 stall
SHould make 450 or so on the motor , alot more on the bottle . 300 through a plate is going to kill you . Invest your money where you can in high quality parts , possiblly a direct port dual stage system using the direct port and the plate ..
Dart Aluminum 2.08 Heads / or similar but less $$ I know the Dart heads are $$$
.600 lift cam , 290 duration @50
I'd go full roller but Hydraulic is way cheaper
Dart Single Plain High Rise intake / or the Edelbrock for $$$
750 Double Pumper with 50cc Accel pumps
.030 over SRP 11:1 , Nitrous rings
Eagle H-Beam 6" rods
SCAT Crank
Built TH350 9" 4500 stall
SHould make 450 or so on the motor , alot more on the bottle . 300 through a plate is going to kill you . Invest your money where you can in high quality parts , possiblly a direct port dual stage system using the direct port and the plate ..
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R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup
Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped
you guys are making cubes out to be a bit more then they really are...there is no need to destroke a 400 or so. technology has come a long way from destroking a 350 down to a 327 just to spin alot of rpm.
but ummm, personally...i would go with a little 355 forged bottom end, and if you can find them, the nascar heads (believe they are 16* heads?), or some SB2.2's...you can make your nitrous goal...on motor. 1 7/8 primaries, solid roller cam. 750cfm carb. TH400, 12bolt/9". fill the block partially, and your other little odds and ends of boltons.
but ummm, personally...i would go with a little 355 forged bottom end, and if you can find them, the nascar heads (believe they are 16* heads?), or some SB2.2's...you can make your nitrous goal...on motor. 1 7/8 primaries, solid roller cam. 750cfm carb. TH400, 12bolt/9". fill the block partially, and your other little odds and ends of boltons.
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El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
Originally Posted by Boosted4AG
LT4 Block - accepts old school heads
Dart Aluminum 2.08 Heads / or similar but less $$ I know the Dart heads are $$$
.600 lift cam , 290 duration @50
I'd go full roller but Hydraulic is way cheaper
Dart Single Plain High Rise intake / or the Edelbrock for $$$
750 Double Pumper with 50cc Accel pumps
.030 over SRP 11:1 , Nitrous rings
Eagle H-Beam 6" rods
SCAT Crank
Dart Aluminum 2.08 Heads / or similar but less $$ I know the Dart heads are $$$
.600 lift cam , 290 duration @50
I'd go full roller but Hydraulic is way cheaper
Dart Single Plain High Rise intake / or the Edelbrock for $$$
750 Double Pumper with 50cc Accel pumps
.030 over SRP 11:1 , Nitrous rings
Eagle H-Beam 6" rods
SCAT Crank
290* @ .05? this is a nitrous motor...
.6 lift?....this is a nitrous motor...
hydraulic IS cheaper, and you will realize how cheap it is trying to put a high duration, high lift cam in it...can we say collapse?
i would run less SCR with the pistons, as the DCR will change when you spray. you can get away with a high SCR if you do indeed go with an LT1/4 bottom end, and have the heads properly converted to the block.
forged callies/eagle crank.
__________________
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
Originally Posted by Sneakin Deacon
you guys are making cubes out to be a bit more then they really are...there is no need to destroke a 400 or so. technology has come a long way from destroking a 350 down to a 327 just to spin alot of rpm.
but ummm, personally...i would go with a little 355 forged bottom end, and if you can find them, the nascar heads (believe they are 16* heads?), or some SB2.2's...you can make your nitrous goal...on motor. 1 7/8 primaries, solid roller cam. 750cfm carb. TH400, 12bolt/9". fill the block partially, and your other little odds and ends of boltons.
but ummm, personally...i would go with a little 355 forged bottom end, and if you can find them, the nascar heads (believe they are 16* heads?), or some SB2.2's...you can make your nitrous goal...on motor. 1 7/8 primaries, solid roller cam. 750cfm carb. TH400, 12bolt/9". fill the block partially, and your other little odds and ends of boltons.
di you have any idea how much money heads like that would cost to use?
it would be fast yes but damn
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