Whats it supposed to be at idle? Mine is oscillating between 44-46 at idle and pins square at 45 psi with any throttle applied. I know 45 at higher throttle is correct but I thought it was supposed to be about 38 psi at idle. I'm thinking this might be causing my slightly rough idle but I want to get other opinions.

 

Too much fuel pressure shouldnt be causing a rough idle, unless at idle you have tons of black smoke, which would indicate the higher fuel pressure. I dont know, to me it sounds like you might be barking up the wrong tree....

 

What you have is fine! when the engine is shut of, does the fuel presure stay up or does it bleed down fast? if it bleeds of fast then you likely have a leak??

 

It stays up. I was thinking that maybe the oscillation of the fuel pressure was the culprit. I don't know though. I'll keep checking different things.

 

I remember you had the distributer out! what did you set the base timing at?

 

sounds like your fuel pressure regulator isnt seeing any vacuum, or there is a leak in its vac line. and yes, the rough idling could be caused by being too rich, would think the o2 sensor would compensate by shortening the pulsewidth though.

 

I put the distributor back in very close to what it was before. I marked the old position and I couldn't tell any difference when I reinstalled it. Besides, the vehicle runs fine at any speed except idle or moving from idle. I do think my fuel pressure regulator isn't functioning quite right, but the more I think about it I don't think it's the problem here. It may be the EGR, since I got an EGR computer code thrown a few times a couple of months ago. Either way, I'm probably gonna live with it until I get a Holly Stealth ram intake(no EGR) and adjustable fpr. I'll probably get new injectors at the same time to eliminate all possibilities on the fuel side.

 

The base timing must be checked and or set at 6 deg before top dead center with the EST conector disconected! start and warm the engine,then unplug the est conector the single tan wire located in the main harnes on the firewall behind the #8 cyl, set timing if needed, shut of ignition then plug the conector back in, disconect the battery for about 5 minutes to reset the computer! this step must be done! otherwise the computer will not have a base timing to work from!

 

Is there an easier way to set timing than disconnecting the #1 spark plug, then turning the crank till you feel compression then setting the rotor to in between #8 and #1 wires? I know I can possibly time by ear but I don't think I'll get it any more accurately than it is now.

 

align the timing mark on the vibration damper to 0 on the timing Tab! pull cap of the distributor! the rotor should be pointing to the #1 cylinder! I `am asuming it is somewhat close seeing as you marked the distributer when you removed it an the car is running and their is no poping or backfiring???? still you need to start,unplug the electronic spark control connector to release the computer from the engine timing and verify with a timing light you have? or set it to 6 degrees defore top dead center, shut of engine disconect neg bat terminal for at least 5 minutes! while waiting plug the est connector back in! this enshures that for some slight chance the distributor gear was NOT a tooth off the correct location but also that the engine timing is within the paramaters that are configured in your computer program! if the timing is off?? the computer has no way of knowing how far advance or retarded the timing actualy is? for example! if the computer advances the timing to 30 deg and the distributor is actualy 3 degrees retarded the engine runs a little rich because the computer is injecting more fuel then the o2 sensor detects a rich condition and tries to compensate then acts like a dog chassing it`s tail around!