Sputtering $$#$%^## and an SES light question
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Animal Mother
Joined: May 2004
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Sputtering $$#$%^## and an SES light question
Car starts right up
Car gets off from a full stop no problem
BUT
If im doing a steady speed, and i give the car some gas, it sputts on me...but if i give it a lot more gas...the car will launch just fine...
any ideas what the fuck that is? and my fucking check engine light is still on!
PS, does anyone know how to get the codes off of a 95 camaro Z28 without a scanner? any tricks to get the light to blink which translates into a code or something? im starting to get sick of this shit and i want to fix it, especially if im thinking of driving it to NY in a month or 2
Car gets off from a full stop no problem
BUT
If im doing a steady speed, and i give the car some gas, it sputts on me...but if i give it a lot more gas...the car will launch just fine...
any ideas what the fuck that is? and my fucking check engine light is still on!
PS, does anyone know how to get the codes off of a 95 camaro Z28 without a scanner? any tricks to get the light to blink which translates into a code or something? im starting to get sick of this shit and i want to fix it, especially if im thinking of driving it to NY in a month or 2
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blowed up
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auto zone or advanced will scan you for free.... sounds a lot like an o2 sensor is going bad.. if you havent replaced the o2's ina while it would be a good idea to go do it
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Originally Posted by 05general lee
im FAT!!!!
Originally Posted by Little Nicky
Scott is my body guard
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Animal Mother
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^^OK...BESIDES THE AZ FREE SCAN....because Autozone does not scan OBD1 cars...ive been to 3 of them already...none of them do it. but thanks tho
any replies that dont involve the above replies regarding Autozone are welcomed
i have feeling that my SES light is whats causing the problems im having.
any replies that dont involve the above replies regarding Autozone are welcomed
i have feeling that my SES light is whats causing the problems im having.
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blowed up
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i have a 94 firebird with obd1 the trick is they need to use the obdII plugin to scan... the people at autozone dont know this because chances are they dont own an f body... go to discount/advanced auto parts. they have an obd 1 and 2 scanner for all cars it should be orange. tell the guy your shit is weird and for him to bring the scanner and all available GM pluggins then just go under your dash and find the one that fits... i just had my car scanned at advanced auto parts on 9th street and 9th ave N in st pete on friday trust me if you walk them thru it they can explain it
if your o2 sensors (or just one) are bad, it will throw a code. when mine went bad it did EXACTLY what yours is doing.. i ignored the problem til it got to the point where the studdering happened all the time... go under your car, wrench the o2 sensors off they will either be black (your running rich) or white (your running lean) chances are if youve owned the car for a while and have not changed these out, there is something wrong with one of them and DO NOT just replace one. always replace both o2 sensors at the same time... a 4 wire bosch o2 sensor is like 50 bucks...
the only other thing it could be (that i can think of right now) is DTC 16 which is an ignition problem thats loss of low resolution pulse signal... basically there is a chip in your opti that measures low and high resolution signals that feed for your tach... either the chip could be bad or somewhere along your ignition/coil setup you have a ground loose (check the bolt that holds your coil ground on.. mine came loose once) but usually if this is the issue your tach will go crazy at certain rpms... and the car could even stall out when you give it gas
check o2 sensor.. and walk the people at discount auto parts thru how your computer works... they will work with you its their job and they have the resources to scan obd1 lt1 computers they just might not know it
if your o2 sensors (or just one) are bad, it will throw a code. when mine went bad it did EXACTLY what yours is doing.. i ignored the problem til it got to the point where the studdering happened all the time... go under your car, wrench the o2 sensors off they will either be black (your running rich) or white (your running lean) chances are if youve owned the car for a while and have not changed these out, there is something wrong with one of them and DO NOT just replace one. always replace both o2 sensors at the same time... a 4 wire bosch o2 sensor is like 50 bucks...
the only other thing it could be (that i can think of right now) is DTC 16 which is an ignition problem thats loss of low resolution pulse signal... basically there is a chip in your opti that measures low and high resolution signals that feed for your tach... either the chip could be bad or somewhere along your ignition/coil setup you have a ground loose (check the bolt that holds your coil ground on.. mine came loose once) but usually if this is the issue your tach will go crazy at certain rpms... and the car could even stall out when you give it gas
check o2 sensor.. and walk the people at discount auto parts thru how your computer works... they will work with you its their job and they have the resources to scan obd1 lt1 computers they just might not know it
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T.R. $100,000 kill club member #002
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Originally Posted by 05general lee
im FAT!!!!
Originally Posted by Little Nicky
Scott is my body guard
Turtle crew member #2
Thread Starter
Animal Mother
Joined: May 2004
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Originally Posted by formula69
i have a 94 firebird with obd1 the trick is they need to use the obdII plugin to scan... the people at autozone dont know this because chances are they dont own an f body... go to discount/advanced auto parts. they have an obd 1 and 2 scanner for all cars it should be orange. tell the guy your shit is weird and for him to bring the scanner and all available GM pluggins then just go under your dash and find the one that fits... i just had my car scanned at advanced auto parts on 9th street and 9th ave N in st pete on friday trust me if you walk them thru it they can explain it
if your o2 sensors (or just one) are bad, it will throw a code. when mine went bad it did EXACTLY what yours is doing.. i ignored the problem til it got to the point where the studdering happened all the time... go under your car, wrench the o2 sensors off they will either be black (your running rich) or white (your running lean) chances are if youve owned the car for a while and have not changed these out, there is something wrong with one of them and DO NOT just replace one. always replace both o2 sensors at the same time... a 4 wire bosch o2 sensor is like 50 bucks...
the only other thing it could be (that i can think of right now) is DTC 16 which is an ignition problem thats loss of low resolution pulse signal... basically there is a chip in your opti that measures low and high resolution signals that feed for your tach... either the chip could be bad or somewhere along your ignition/coil setup you have a ground loose (check the bolt that holds your coil ground on.. mine came loose once) but usually if this is the issue your tach will go crazy at certain rpms... and the car could even stall out when you give it gas
check o2 sensor.. and walk the people at discount auto parts thru how your computer works... they will work with you its their job and they have the resources to scan obd1 lt1 computers they just might not know it
if your o2 sensors (or just one) are bad, it will throw a code. when mine went bad it did EXACTLY what yours is doing.. i ignored the problem til it got to the point where the studdering happened all the time... go under your car, wrench the o2 sensors off they will either be black (your running rich) or white (your running lean) chances are if youve owned the car for a while and have not changed these out, there is something wrong with one of them and DO NOT just replace one. always replace both o2 sensors at the same time... a 4 wire bosch o2 sensor is like 50 bucks...
the only other thing it could be (that i can think of right now) is DTC 16 which is an ignition problem thats loss of low resolution pulse signal... basically there is a chip in your opti that measures low and high resolution signals that feed for your tach... either the chip could be bad or somewhere along your ignition/coil setup you have a ground loose (check the bolt that holds your coil ground on.. mine came loose once) but usually if this is the issue your tach will go crazy at certain rpms... and the car could even stall out when you give it gas
check o2 sensor.. and walk the people at discount auto parts thru how your computer works... they will work with you its their job and they have the resources to scan obd1 lt1 computers they just might not know it
ill try the O2 sensor, im guessing that i only have 1 since its an OBD1 car...and i have no clue if its ever been changed since i only owned it about 6 months.
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Dude, I have the OBD scanner, you just need to get the plug for the OBD-II style thing and we'll hook it up. Hell, we can jam bare wires in there for all I care, just as long as we can get them to stay in contact with the scanner I got. All I'd need are pinouts and we could make it happen.
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Animal Mother
Joined: May 2004
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Originally Posted by Frank
Dude, I have the OBD scanner, you just need to get the plug for the OBD-II style thing and we'll hook it up. Hell, we can jam bare wires in there for all I care, just as long as we can get them to stay in contact with the scanner I got. All I'd need are pinouts and we could make it happen.
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg is that what you need for it to work?
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Originally Posted by phinger23
i love you frank http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg is that what you need for it to work?
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg is that what you need for it to work?I got the special O2 removal socket, I dunno if that'll help you get the sensor out, but you can borrow it.
