Tampa Racing - LT1 Pro and Cons?

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you can get to 400 hp with stock ported heads and a cam... cheaper than buying afr's... i got a better idea... do every bolton imagineable and youll be close if not over 300 hp, then put a 100 shot on

heads are held in by bolts, so does that make them a bolt on? :p

dont stroker kits bolt right in with minor mods to the block? well hell while were at it, turbos, superchargers and nitrous bolt right in as well.. i bolted my bottle down the the floor board and bolted my spray plate in place

Quote:

Originally Posted by URFUCT

I hope you mean 290 to the wheels, with every bolt on imaginable and a 6 speed. You would need a fully built stroker to make close to 400rwp with an LT1. Dont take this as an attack on your post but I'm not a big fan of the programmer, unless your changing the shift points on an auto, and a custom tune is still better and TCI converters are crap compared to the Yank or Vigilante.
Pro's- cheap, pretty fast stock, not immpossible to make fast, like nitrous
Cons- Hard to find low mileage, and the ones that are come near in price to a LS1, your shit outta luck if the motor lets go, I hope you have 3-5k laying around for a rebuild. You will need forced induction to see 11's unless your last name happens to be Lingenfelter.

I agree with 90% of what you said and the stroker is the best way to go. But forced induction to see 11's????? There are multiple Lt1's in the 11's on motor alone, refer to lt1 tech, z28.com and even ls1 tech. For over 400 to the wheels or around that a stroker is ideal. I've seen solid 370-380 on awesome heads and a gigantic bump stick and all other bolt ons. (m6) Auto little tougher but the stall makes up for that in terms of speed, ironic that it causes the lower HP # and then helps with ET's.

it has 285 to rear wheels. the Shorty headers give u 28 RWHP more. I know its possible to get 350 Plus with bolt ons.

Shortys gave you 28 RWHP?????? My long tubes wich are way more efficient did not net me that. Did you do another mod with that? Actually most lt1's in stock form produce about 250 RWHP to 270.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quickdomesticracer

it has 285 to rear wheels. the Shorty headers give u 28 RWHP more. I know its possible to get 350 Plus with bolt ons.

okay, you're building for magazine horse power. I prefer real world horse power made with real world torque and rpms's.

In a nutshell, if you're going to stick to external bolt ons then you'll be a lot better off with an LS1. If you're going to build the entire motor for HP either one will do but the LT1 may have a slight edge in costs.

quickdomesticricer, please stop giving out advice because you are so wrong it hurts me to read it.

i hear LT1s can be built to run 1) 11s N/A and 2) pretty darn quick. but what do i know.

quickdomesticricer? WRONG. How am I wrong when I asked Leonard at gearhead and he read HOOKER SHORTYS 28 RWHP from the book, and many people tell me that the LT1 have 285 RWHP? Arent I correct in saying RICERS are for looks and not performance, when my dad owns 3 race cars, that I help work on and tune on? 2 Camaros and 1 S 10 blazer? I dont think Performance Catologs that supply Gearhead will be guessing, or innaccurate, just cause I havent ran a dyno on mine, added headers and did another dyno doesnt mean its wrong, They cant put false information, all that info is tested, yes its printed to sound the best, and I am sure some only get 15+ HP gains, but its not completely wrong.
You also see well
285
+28
K & N Cold Air
Blocking off the TB from the water system +5 or 6 HP
CSI Electric water pump +5 I mean u can get over 425 Engine HP from bolt ons, your telling me that more than 75 HP is lost to the Rear wheels?

I CAN ALSO TELL YOU SOME PEOPLE HERE ARE FULL OF SHIT. THEY GOT 1.38 60ft oing 6.98 in the 1/8th at 103? My dad had 2 different race cars, one that ran 6.40s but before the engine upgrade was running 6.90s with 1.47 60fts and so, and his new car which runs 6.90s which gets 1.49-1.56 60fts, if u got 1.38 unless u let off is unrealistic.