Rebuilding my '65 Vette 327!
Alright, so I finally got off my ass and tore down my old 327. Here's what I got:
'65 Covette block, .020 over
Stock rods
Stock crank
Sterling 310P 8.7:1 pistons
'67 2.02/1.60/64cc Fuelie heads
Weiand single plenum intake
Now, I just have to go cam and piston shopping. I'm thinking about picking up a Crane 238/246 duration, .480"/.495" lift at 1.5 cam. Now, 2.02 valve heads love to breathe at .515", so with 1.6 ratio rockers I can get damn close at .512"/.528". Anybody suggest anything better? Naturally I'll be getting the block slotted for rollers while I have it in the shop.
Also, pistons, I don't even know where to start. Can someone explain to me the simple math to convert combustion chamber size, etc... into compression? I obviously want to stick something in there that's higher than 8.7:1 since I'm not going to be using the motor for stock drag racing
'65 Covette block, .020 over
Stock rods
Stock crank
Sterling 310P 8.7:1 pistons
'67 2.02/1.60/64cc Fuelie heads
Weiand single plenum intake
Now, I just have to go cam and piston shopping. I'm thinking about picking up a Crane 238/246 duration, .480"/.495" lift at 1.5 cam. Now, 2.02 valve heads love to breathe at .515", so with 1.6 ratio rockers I can get damn close at .512"/.528". Anybody suggest anything better? Naturally I'll be getting the block slotted for rollers while I have it in the shop.
Also, pistons, I don't even know where to start. Can someone explain to me the simple math to convert combustion chamber size, etc... into compression? I obviously want to stick something in there that's higher than 8.7:1 since I'm not going to be using the motor for stock drag racing
Looks like I again answered my own question. Looks like a Comp Cam 12-432-8 will do it with a 230/236 and .510"/.520" at a 1.5 ratio. Also, Keith Black makes some 4.030" bore hyper. pistons that run a 10.5:1 ratio on stock 64cc heads. With a little mill and deck, which are needed anyway, that should get me closer to 11:1 which should generate decent power.
The 1.6 rocker ratio should add 30 to 40 thousandths to the cam lift. As far as Keith Black pistons, don't use them if you ever decide to use NOS. If you don't plan on spraying it, then they will be a good piston. Not that it matters what I think, but I prefer a nice JE piston. Good luck with it man.
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Originally Posted by Zate
i still stand by the fact that 75% of 16-23 year olds are dropped babies.
Originally Posted by Boosted240
Mustangs are the hondas of the domestic cars. The drivers are always doing ricer revs and just like hondas, about the only place you cant buy parts for them is at 7-11.
The heads and valve train are the key to power now. I would suggest you get a retrofit roller cam and some Harland Sharpe roller rockers. I would scrap the heads you have for a good set of after market aluminum or at the verry least have the ones you have now ported and polished and a fresh valve job done. I would think 370 at the wheels would be a can do easy with that type of setup.
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98 Z28 A4/LS1
Sport Gold Metalic
God I Hate Ricers
98 Z28 A4/LS1
Sport Gold Metalic
God I Hate Ricers
Scrapping the head isn't an option. It's a 1960's car, I want to run a 1960's engine. 
I am going to get a whole valvejob and a port and polish done on the heads though. I'll probably have them flow/port matched to the intake and headers I have too. Gonna use some Manley valves and probably Comp dual valvesprings since they come in the cam kit.
That cam I have picked out is a retrofit Comp roller rocker setup. I'm gonna do 1.52 ratio Comp roller rockers which should get my lift to about optimum at .516".
I don't really plan on spraying it and I'm not too hot on forged JE pistons. They're expensive and probably way overkill for a normal street motor. Let's be honest, if I'm going to build a motor for spray, why would I bother with something like a 327 anyway?
I am going to get a whole valvejob and a port and polish done on the heads though. I'll probably have them flow/port matched to the intake and headers I have too. Gonna use some Manley valves and probably Comp dual valvesprings since they come in the cam kit.
That cam I have picked out is a retrofit Comp roller rocker setup. I'm gonna do 1.52 ratio Comp roller rockers which should get my lift to about optimum at .516".
I don't really plan on spraying it and I'm not too hot on forged JE pistons. They're expensive and probably way overkill for a normal street motor. Let's be honest, if I'm going to build a motor for spray, why would I bother with something like a 327 anyway?
On the cam I ment a full roller cam. YOu can get a set of drop in roller lifters and a cam for less than $450 that will make 30 more HP than a flat tappit cam with the same profile. Friction is a big drain on power and the rollers help limit that a bunch.
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98 Z28 A4/LS1
Sport Gold Metalic
God I Hate Ricers
98 Z28 A4/LS1
Sport Gold Metalic
God I Hate Ricers
Originally posted by Gunslinger09
On the cam I ment a full roller cam. YOu can get a set of drop in roller lifters and a cam for less than $450 that will make 30 more HP than a flat tappit cam with the same profile. Friction is a big drain on power and the rollers help limit that a bunch.
On the cam I ment a full roller cam. YOu can get a set of drop in roller lifters and a cam for less than $450 that will make 30 more HP than a flat tappit cam with the same profile. Friction is a big drain on power and the rollers help limit that a bunch.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=12-432-8


