Cam Help
Ok guys, I want to get a good cam in my car, and I need help deciding which one. I currently make 331hp/338tq to the wheels, and I would like to get close to 400. I have been checking on LS1tech the last couple of weeks, but I am just not sure which one to get. Unfortunately I can't get too crazy with the cam since it is a daily driver for now. If I can get close to 400 at the wheels, a 100 shot should make for a really fun car.
It might...but that would be considered a fairly large cam.
I would go with something in the neighborhood of 224-228 on the intake side and 224-230 max on the exhaust. I would not go over .580 lift. Be sure to get a good spring.
Jeremy Formato had a couple of very nice cams in the range you may be looking for. Rx can get you a deal as well.
I would go with something in the neighborhood of 224-228 on the intake side and 224-230 max on the exhaust. I would not go over .580 lift. Be sure to get a good spring.
Jeremy Formato had a couple of very nice cams in the range you may be looking for. Rx can get you a deal as well.
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap

if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
Originally posted by obrien2
Thanks for the help Hybrid. Just wondering, why would you not go with any more duration or lift? I am not questioning you, but asking so I can learn more.
Thanks again
Thanks for the help Hybrid. Just wondering, why would you not go with any more duration or lift? I am not questioning you, but asking so I can learn more.
Thanks again
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-Vince
-Vince
you could get 400rwhp with a 100 shot WITHOUT a cam.
For daily driver I would say the biggest cam you would prob want would be a TR224 on a 114lsa good driveablity, good power and nice tq.
through a 100 shot on that and You would be way over I guess...
For daily driver I would say the biggest cam you would prob want would be a TR224 on a 114lsa good driveablity, good power and nice tq.
through a 100 shot on that and You would be way over I guess...
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-Eddie
-Eddie
with a larger cam you run the chance of putting the stock springs into coil bind if there is alot of lift, wearing down pushrods quicker, and its just a harder upkeep. you will probably want to upgrade the entire valvetrain to accomodate if you go with a somewhat aggressive cam. jeremy would be the person to talk to as i believe he has software to design a cam to a certain goal. for driveability, id say go no lower then 112lsa, at the MOST, 114 would be more appropriate. if you were gunna spray, id say 226/230 .575/.575 114lsa off the top of my head.
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El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...

Generally speaking...the higher the duration the higher it will want to push your Tq peak and HP peak in the rpm band. This may result in a rough idle and drivability issues in the lower rpm. Like bucking in 5th gaer at 1200 rpm and possible stalling at idle. Tuning can help alot of this so can getting the cam on a 114 lsa. It also depends on how much you are willing to live with on a daily basis. Could you daily drive a car with that cam...you bet. Would you get sick of it....that depends on your preferences.
Lift is another issue completely. Huge lift cams greatly reduce spring life. If you get a cam with a valve lift approaching .600...I would recomend changing springs yearly if you put a normal amount of driving miles on them. Bur stepping down a bit to something in the .560-.580 range makes a very big difference in longevity with minimal loss of power.
I also dont like the reverse split (intake duration larger that exhaust) for the LS1s. Especially if you are going to spray at some point. That cam you listed would idle like absolute ass
What are you goals for the car? What kind of idle are you looking for? Will you race the car? Where do you want the HP to peak in rpms?
Lift is another issue completely. Huge lift cams greatly reduce spring life. If you get a cam with a valve lift approaching .600...I would recomend changing springs yearly if you put a normal amount of driving miles on them. Bur stepping down a bit to something in the .560-.580 range makes a very big difference in longevity with minimal loss of power.
I also dont like the reverse split (intake duration larger that exhaust) for the LS1s. Especially if you are going to spray at some point. That cam you listed would idle like absolute ass
What are you goals for the car? What kind of idle are you looking for? Will you race the car? Where do you want the HP to peak in rpms?
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap

if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
Originally posted by Sneakin Deacon
with a larger cam you run the chance of putting the stock springs into coil bind if there is alot of lift, wearing down pushrods quicker, and its just a harder upkeep. you will probably want to upgrade the entire valvetrain to accomodate if you go with a somewhat aggressive cam. jeremy would be the person to talk to as i believe he has software to design a cam to a certain goal. for driveability, id say go no lower then 112lsa, at the MOST, 114 would be more appropriate. if you were gunna spray, id say 226/230 .575/.575 114lsa off the top of my head.
with a larger cam you run the chance of putting the stock springs into coil bind if there is alot of lift, wearing down pushrods quicker, and its just a harder upkeep. you will probably want to upgrade the entire valvetrain to accomodate if you go with a somewhat aggressive cam. jeremy would be the person to talk to as i believe he has software to design a cam to a certain goal. for driveability, id say go no lower then 112lsa, at the MOST, 114 would be more appropriate. if you were gunna spray, id say 226/230 .575/.575 114lsa off the top of my head.
Kenny...stock spring wont take ANY kind of aftermarket cam. Hell...they wont even hold up to the stock cam past 6500 rpm most of the time.
I was thinking along the lines of a 224/228 comp cam on XE lobes with a 114 at most for dialy driver.
__________________

if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap

if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
damn LS1's, gotta all be difficult...
you all talk about .570+ lift like its nothing...to me as an lt1 guy, that is HUCKIN FUGE!
you all talk about .570+ lift like its nothing...to me as an lt1 guy, that is HUCKIN FUGE!
__________________
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...
El Pendejo Loco
2002 Suzuki Hayabusa
1507 "dry" block
Brocks megaphone
Spencercycle 10" swingarm
MPS auto shifter
Hays convertible clutch
Yea, that about sums it up...



