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HID Headlamp question/problem.

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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Graves
Because most- A) aren't made in the US because B) 99% aren't DOT approved for use in motor vehicles.
I gave you a perfect example of what to do to determine the problem.
Hell try swapping the ballasts and see if the problem moves.
It's a fairly simple process of elimination.
There is no kit period that is DOT approved. Somewhere in the paperwork/fine print, there is always something that says for off road use only.

Seeing as how it is a 240, I highly doubt the previous owner took the time and money to properly retrofit real projectors and quality parts. More than likely, they bought the cheapest kit they could find. Most of the time, those kits contain some really crappy ballasts. So the first place to start when dealing with this kind of problem is to first swap the ballasts. If the problem moves, then you know it was the ballast. If it doesn't move, then it is more than likely the bulb. To help narrow it down even further, after you move the ballast and the problem doesn't move, then swap the bulbs around. If the problem then moves, then you know it was the bulb. If it still doesn't move, then you can safely say it is a problem in the wiring leading up to that point. Further inspection will be needed to find the problem and correct it.

Originally Posted by Ridiculous Wobble
6k huh? what color does that burn? i love the 10k's man they look so good when they work! lol
10,000k is really blue.
8,000k is noticeably blue
6,000k looks white, but you can see some of the blue when it is next to 4300K
4300K is what stock BMW headlights look like.

the higher the kelvin. the less actual light output of the bulb.

Go to HIDplanet.com they have a sticky/faq that will tell you pretty much everything you need to know about HID's.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Empire
There is no kit period that is DOT approved. Somewhere in the paperwork/fine print, there is always something that says for off road use only.

Seeing as how it is a 240, I highly doubt the previous owner took the time and money to properly retrofit real projectors and quality parts. More than likely, they bought the cheapest kit they could find. Most of the time, those kits contain some really crappy ballasts. So the first place to start when dealing with this kind of problem is to first swap the ballasts. If the problem moves, then you know it was the ballast. If it doesn't move, then it is more than likely the bulb. To help narrow it down even further, after you move the ballast and the problem doesn't move, then swap the bulbs around. If the problem then moves, then you know it was the bulb. If it still doesn't move, then you can safely say it is a problem in the wiring leading up to that point. Further inspection will be needed to find the problem and correct it.


10,000k is really blue.
8,000k is noticeably blue
6,000k looks white, but you can see some of the blue when it is next to 4300K
4300K is what stock BMW headlights look like.

the higher the kelvin. the less actual light output of the bulb.

Go to HIDplanet.com they have a sticky/faq that will tell you pretty much everything you need to know about HID's.
Thanks for your information empire. Although i want to add that this is a 98 240SX (kouki) the headlights are factory projectors. aside from that i cant vouche for how great the quality of the kit is exactly BUT i can say that the guy i bought the car from cut NO corners and really didnt put anything on the car that was "Cheap" persay. Anyways if u want to see the car it's at this link:

https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/m...san-240sx.html



And here is a pic of the car as it sat this morning with the light OUT. Since this has happened i can turn the lights on and they both illuminate BUT the passenger burns a greenish color and the driver side is the 10k blue it should be..

[IMG]http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1252681_n.jpg[/IMG]




When i turn the highbeams on the lowbeams will start to flicker and as i rev the engine and hold it consistently (Making the alternator charge) they both stop flickering.. but i cant tell, alone if the passenger bulb goes blue or not yet.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 04:27 PM
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Also here is a pic of how the car was advertised. idk how long ago this pic was taken but here is what they SHOULD look like.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4869338_n.jpg
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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jus went outside an looked at both the lights in the dark and they looked ALMOST identical... both illuminated but the passenger jus seemed a bit off still.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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discolored out put is usually a sign of the bulb dying. It is also a sign of the ballast or voltage being irregular.....which leads to the bulb dying. Obvious at this point however I know... When replacing HID bulbs they must NEVER be touched by your skin. This is the MOST common reason for one bulb dying faster than the other. A voltage irregularity will do the same thing and based on the other electrical problems that seems to go along with your issues, I would guess it is in your wiring or your ballast. G/L
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by burgy240
discolored out put is usually a sign of the bulb dying. It is also a sign of the ballast or voltage being irregular.....which leads to the bulb dying. Obvious at this point however I know... When replacing HID bulbs they must NEVER be touched by your skin. This is the MOST common reason for one bulb dying faster than the other. A voltage irregularity will do the same thing and based on the other electrical problems that seems to go along with your issues, I would guess it is in your wiring or your ballast. G/L
Tomorrow, i will swap the ballasts and see if the problem migrates to the other side. If not then that's honestly good news. I will then swap the bulbs and try that. If the problem migrates then it must be the bulb. Although, i dont see a bad bulb making my lowbeams both flicker when i turn on my highbeams.
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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IDK and am too lazy to look it up and see what your car need but I have a 9006 4500k kit for 50 dalla if you need extra parts.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by zhillz
IDK and am too lazy to look it up and see what your car need but I have a 9006 4500k kit for 50 dalla if you need extra parts.
Not interested in 4500k thank you tho!
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridiculous Wobble
Not interested in 4500k thank you tho!
Not trying to be a dick, but as stated the higher the number the less light you get. Most people consider anything over 6000k to be ricer since they have less light and are pretty bad when it's wet out.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by zhillz
Not trying to be a dick, but as stated the higher the number the less light you get. Most people consider anything over 6000k to be ricer since they have less light and are pretty bad when it's wet out.
Considering the car is clean and oem the 10,000k lights kind've give it a look of class rather than rice. If u look at the pic it looks great imo. Now if they were pink or green or some fanboy crap like that i could understand but honestly the light output on them is great, although i havnt seen them perform in the wet, yet. Once the car is lowered as well the lights will only look better as far as night time illumination goes. They cover some good ground jus the way it sits, but im jus worried about this power shortage issue. I need to get a tester and find out whats going on... Anyone live in citrus with a voltage tester? Lol
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