Negotiating car prices?
The car is used and they wont add or remove anything. I can say one thing i would haggle for is a full "dealership" not third party extended warranty. Third party warranties are a scam. I went with my girlfriend to get her a 05 matrix xr. 35000 miles. They were asking 11500 she got them down to 10500 an 1500 for her POS. I got them down to 9800 ( they were charging her a delivery fee, mind you it was a trade in) she got an extended warranty through that dealer for up to 100k miles and free oil changes up until 100k miles. They removed some of the door dents and repainted the rear bumper from having small scratches.
Keep in mind if they were asking 11500, trade in was 9000 on the car which means they paid 15% less than that for it. So we met them in the middle and got some extras out of them for the car.
Since the car you are looking at is 24.5k and its value is 22k trade in is probably 19-20k and they paid around 17k for it. Id go in, offer 20.5k for
it, see what they can do, work on an extended warranty, dent removal, maybe new tires and what not.
Good luck.
Keep in mind if they were asking 11500, trade in was 9000 on the car which means they paid 15% less than that for it. So we met them in the middle and got some extras out of them for the car.
Since the car you are looking at is 24.5k and its value is 22k trade in is probably 19-20k and they paid around 17k for it. Id go in, offer 20.5k for
it, see what they can do, work on an extended warranty, dent removal, maybe new tires and what not.
Good luck.
Best advice I've EVER heard about buying from dealers.....go the last day or 2 of the month!!! Like NOW for Nov. Salesmen always need to crunch sales at the end of the month to hit their quotas and make the sale. they will take sacrifices to make their quotas... g/l
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For brand new cars so the new models will roll in.. I highly doubt on a used car. If it doesn't sell it will go to auction most likely.
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Most important.....Dont tell them you have a trade in. They'll just base the new cars price on your trade in and you'll realy end up just giving your car away. Don't fall for the "they gave me such a good deal on my trade" crap. What good is $10K trade for your beater honda/toyota/etc if they just raised the new car price $10K too.
And don't tell them what you want to pay "per month."
Salesmen see buyers as "trade-in people" or "monthly payment" people. So don't show them your cards.
AS others said...negotiate the "out the door" price only. New or used, they'll try to hit you for all kinds of bullshit after you settled on the price. Don't EVER pay DMU (dealer mark up) its bullshit. Its just extra money they make. Walk if they won't budge. They'll stop you before you hit the door. After you make a deal, then decide to trade-in your car. Come with all kinds of data; KBB, Edmunds, etc. Have in mind what your car is worth in this market. And that's trade-in value, not resale.
Rainy days are good time to buy, at the end of the year, and the end of the month, they are more willing to deal.
Also, see if your business works with buyer incentive programs. Often larger companies partner up with car makers to offer low prices to employees. Sometimes you can get a car at dealer cost (they still make money on something called Dealer Hold-backs)
Ford has something called the X-plan and Chrysler has something too. Ask around at work.
I paid $15,700 for a SVT Focus brand new in '02. Sticker was $22k. I had the x-plan price.
Always, always , be prepared to walk. Don't let then see you "fall in love" with the car.
There are plenty of others out there just like it, and dealers know it.
And don't tell them what you want to pay "per month."
Salesmen see buyers as "trade-in people" or "monthly payment" people. So don't show them your cards.
AS others said...negotiate the "out the door" price only. New or used, they'll try to hit you for all kinds of bullshit after you settled on the price. Don't EVER pay DMU (dealer mark up) its bullshit. Its just extra money they make. Walk if they won't budge. They'll stop you before you hit the door. After you make a deal, then decide to trade-in your car. Come with all kinds of data; KBB, Edmunds, etc. Have in mind what your car is worth in this market. And that's trade-in value, not resale.
Rainy days are good time to buy, at the end of the year, and the end of the month, they are more willing to deal.
Also, see if your business works with buyer incentive programs. Often larger companies partner up with car makers to offer low prices to employees. Sometimes you can get a car at dealer cost (they still make money on something called Dealer Hold-backs)
Ford has something called the X-plan and Chrysler has something too. Ask around at work.
I paid $15,700 for a SVT Focus brand new in '02. Sticker was $22k. I had the x-plan price.
Always, always , be prepared to walk. Don't let then see you "fall in love" with the car.
There are plenty of others out there just like it, and dealers know it.
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Do not offer a trade in. Don't even let them test drive your car. Let them know you don't have anything to trade. After you negotiate a price and it's a good one then you can tell them you have a vehicle for trade. But remember you will get half a penny on the dollar for a trade in. You are better of keeping it or selling it on your own to get more money.
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Even selling the vehicle at invoice the dealer makes money. Especially if they floorplan the vehicles. There is a lot of money on the backside most car buyers never know about.
When I bought my Focus it was just shy of 9k and the sticker price was 15k. Sold it to me at invoice, I got the hold back, ad money and what ever else they gave up. I worked there and knew it had sat on the lot for 9 months.
That's another thing, try to see how long the car has been there. Older units sell for less.
The end of the month is a true fact. If the dealership is short that month there's a good chance you can get a good deal.
When I bought my Focus it was just shy of 9k and the sticker price was 15k. Sold it to me at invoice, I got the hold back, ad money and what ever else they gave up. I worked there and knew it had sat on the lot for 9 months.
That's another thing, try to see how long the car has been there. Older units sell for less.
The end of the month is a true fact. If the dealership is short that month there's a good chance you can get a good deal.
I worked for a dealership for 10+ years with the fleet department mostly and have a good idea how much lower they can truly sell a car/truck for.
Some dealerships will sell every car at invoice to make a volume profit over individual unit profit.
Some dealerships will sell every car at invoice to make a volume profit over individual unit profit.
im not reading so if tis been covered blow me. Most salesmen have a rough idea of what the dealer will let the car go for but the sales manager is the man to talk to. usually 2 write ups on price and the sales manager will come out and close the deal. he knows if he can lose money cause the car has eben there a long time, or if its a pile of shit that thney just wanna get rid of. the last day of the month is the best day to go. the finance manager will bust his ass to get the deal done and they will let it go cheaper just to add the additional unit to the months sales.
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RIP my very best friend. DJ aka djzstang1 you will be missed dearly. I love you bro.

1995 240sx se
1992 240sx
1990 240sx se
1991 240sx hicas sr20det MDX
1991 240sx project coupe
1990 240sx drift beater hatch
1993 240sx sr20det
RIP my very best friend. DJ aka djzstang1 you will be missed dearly. I love you bro.

1995 240sx se
1992 240sx
1990 240sx se
1991 240sx hicas sr20det MDX
1991 240sx project coupe
1990 240sx drift beater hatch
1993 240sx sr20det


