Clutch/Flywheel questions
drives euro trash
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Clutch/Flywheel questions
If all goes well with selling the Mustang I will be purchasing a new clutch, flywheel, and diff for the Focus in the next week or so. I know the diff will be a Quaife, but I'm having problems figuring out what clutch and flywheel to go with.
First I'll start with the flywheel. I have three options: Fidanza, FocusSport, and Unorthodox. Both the Fidanza and the FS weigh in at 8.5 lbs, and the Unorthodox comes in at 9.5 lbs (stock weighs 21.5lbs). The Fidanza and FocusSport both cost about $400, while the Unorthodox unit costs about $600. I know lighter isn't always better so I'm leaning towards the Unorthodox, but I can't justify spending $200 more unless their quality is far better than others on the market. Here are a couple links for reference:
http://unorthodoxracing.com/ultral.html
http://www.focussport.com/flywheel.htm
As far as clutches go, I know both ACT and Clutchmasters make good units. I also stumbled upon a Sachs clutch for a competetive price. Has anyone had any experiences with or heard anything about Sachs clutches? I have only read reviews on the Internet, and they have a good following over in Europe.
Thanks for the help.
First I'll start with the flywheel. I have three options: Fidanza, FocusSport, and Unorthodox. Both the Fidanza and the FS weigh in at 8.5 lbs, and the Unorthodox comes in at 9.5 lbs (stock weighs 21.5lbs). The Fidanza and FocusSport both cost about $400, while the Unorthodox unit costs about $600. I know lighter isn't always better so I'm leaning towards the Unorthodox, but I can't justify spending $200 more unless their quality is far better than others on the market. Here are a couple links for reference:
http://unorthodoxracing.com/ultral.html
http://www.focussport.com/flywheel.htm
As far as clutches go, I know both ACT and Clutchmasters make good units. I also stumbled upon a Sachs clutch for a competetive price. Has anyone had any experiences with or heard anything about Sachs clutches? I have only read reviews on the Internet, and they have a good following over in Europe.
Thanks for the help.
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Sachs is the OEM clutch manufacturer for Porsche (and a few other european manufacturers I believe).
My first clutch made it about 90,000 miles (at which time I stripped the dampener out of the disk, the friction material was still in OK shape) and the current one is holding up pretty well despite the occasional smoking. When I changed the clutch I upgraded to a different Sachs disk that is better able to handle the additional power from the car's old mods.
For a 10 inch clutch that has to hold over 325 HP and 350 LBS of torque my Sachs is doing quite well. I'm just hoping it can also handle the additional power once I finish my rebuild and new mods.
My first clutch made it about 90,000 miles (at which time I stripped the dampener out of the disk, the friction material was still in OK shape) and the current one is holding up pretty well despite the occasional smoking. When I changed the clutch I upgraded to a different Sachs disk that is better able to handle the additional power from the car's old mods.
For a 10 inch clutch that has to hold over 325 HP and 350 LBS of torque my Sachs is doing quite well. I'm just hoping it can also handle the additional power once I finish my rebuild and new mods.
Got traction?
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IF u wanna a clutch that won't slip, stay away from any disk that has organic compound in it. IMO, look around for a clutch that has a disk made from either Kevlar or Sintered(sp?) iron. They don't slip. -Mark
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, scc, wrote a couple articles using the focusport setup. Might want to try and dig up the back issues.
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Well theres pros/cons for clutches..
Organic/will have slight slippage..
Kevlar<<<not sure on the outcome
Bronze<<will ware down the flywheel..
If you want full drag..and dont care about your flywheel..go with like a 4 or 6 puck..full race ceramic clutch
<><><><<>
Forgot to say..
Diffrent clutches..has diffrent % over stock...and you can get an idea of what clutch you want...they will tell you how many hp its good up to..
Organic/will have slight slippage..
Kevlar<<<not sure on the outcome
Bronze<<will ware down the flywheel..
If you want full drag..and dont care about your flywheel..go with like a 4 or 6 puck..full race ceramic clutch
<><><><<>
Forgot to say..
Diffrent clutches..has diffrent % over stock...and you can get an idea of what clutch you want...they will tell you how many hp its good up to..
Got traction?
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Organic slips. Which means your losing power the the rear wheels...er...I mean front wheels. 
Kevlar won't slip. It's kinda like a light switch. It's either on or off. No in between. Great for drag. Chattering on the street.
Sintard iron. As the compound heats up it grabs harder. Great for daily driving and alittle street action.
Any serious clutch disk will shorten the life of a stock flywheel. So if u go aftermarket flywheel be sure to take into consideration why type of clutch. IMO alum flywheel and sintared iron disk won't go together. Heat bends alum. For a bullit steel flywheel get a sintared iron. For a alum get a kevlar. -Mark
Kevlar won't slip. It's kinda like a light switch. It's either on or off. No in between. Great for drag. Chattering on the street.
Sintard iron. As the compound heats up it grabs harder. Great for daily driving and alittle street action.
Any serious clutch disk will shorten the life of a stock flywheel. So if u go aftermarket flywheel be sure to take into consideration why type of clutch. IMO alum flywheel and sintared iron disk won't go together. Heat bends alum. For a bullit steel flywheel get a sintared iron. For a alum get a kevlar. -Mark
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98' cobra
98' cobra
