Just changed ATF now RPM drops and car spudders when taking turns
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Just changed ATF now RPM drops and car spudders when taking turns
97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x2 I6.......
As wierd as it sounds. I changed the tranny fluid AND filter. Did everything to spec pretty much. After that the car shifts fine but whenever we have to accelerate into a curve/make a turn from first gear(or from a stop) I notice the RPM drops and the car sputters. If you give it gas it catches itself fine and moves but if you attempt to let it roll it sputters and rpms go as low as 1-200. In case I may not be explaining it correctly here's an example.
I'm leaving my apartment complex. I approach the corner for a right turn slowly. I slow down and turn the wheel to the right and attempt to ease into the turn by giving it a little gas. If I take my foot off of the pedal, the RPM doesn't go back to a constant Idle, it drops low and the car sputters until you give it gas and it goes fine. Pretty much does this at Drive thrus, parking lots, and other places where you idle along at lower speeds and have to make low speed turns.
When I went to autozone a guy mentioned it may be an idle speed sensor/controller that attaches to the tranny and that it might have been hit out of place when I was changing the fluid. After crawling under there I noticed it. I detached the negative cable on the battery, pulled it off and cleaned it with electrical part cleaner. After letting it dry and attached it reconnected the battery and it still did the same thing. After looking online it seems like it MAY be a crankcase position sensor as some people have said on other Jeep Forums. Can anyone help?
Cliffs:
- After changing tranny fluid car sputters and rpms drop ONLY when making slow turns or accelerating from a slow turn in 1st gear.
- Cleaned Idle speed sensor under transmission as adviced by autozone guy
- Did some researching and seen other people saying this could be attributed to the cps(crankcase position sensor).
HELP!!!!
As wierd as it sounds. I changed the tranny fluid AND filter. Did everything to spec pretty much. After that the car shifts fine but whenever we have to accelerate into a curve/make a turn from first gear(or from a stop) I notice the RPM drops and the car sputters. If you give it gas it catches itself fine and moves but if you attempt to let it roll it sputters and rpms go as low as 1-200. In case I may not be explaining it correctly here's an example.
I'm leaving my apartment complex. I approach the corner for a right turn slowly. I slow down and turn the wheel to the right and attempt to ease into the turn by giving it a little gas. If I take my foot off of the pedal, the RPM doesn't go back to a constant Idle, it drops low and the car sputters until you give it gas and it goes fine. Pretty much does this at Drive thrus, parking lots, and other places where you idle along at lower speeds and have to make low speed turns.
When I went to autozone a guy mentioned it may be an idle speed sensor/controller that attaches to the tranny and that it might have been hit out of place when I was changing the fluid. After crawling under there I noticed it. I detached the negative cable on the battery, pulled it off and cleaned it with electrical part cleaner. After letting it dry and attached it reconnected the battery and it still did the same thing. After looking online it seems like it MAY be a crankcase position sensor as some people have said on other Jeep Forums. Can anyone help?
Cliffs:
- After changing tranny fluid car sputters and rpms drop ONLY when making slow turns or accelerating from a slow turn in 1st gear.
- Cleaned Idle speed sensor under transmission as adviced by autozone guy
- Did some researching and seen other people saying this could be attributed to the cps(crankcase position sensor).
HELP!!!!
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Check everywhere you may have put your hands when you were under the car. Could be something loose or pinched in the pan (pretty common when working on the ground). Also, I hope you put the Chrysler transmission additive back in it.
/trans guy
/trans guy
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Didn't mention that in the haynes manual. Care to explain pls?Also did this already and without pulling the pan again I pretty much checked everything.......
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Most Chrysler transmissions require a bottle of additive. Odds are, you only dumped 4-6 quarts (typical ATs have more than 12 quarts of fluid when dry) out since there isn't a good way to dump all the fluid out of the cooler, lines and torque converter so it shouldn't matter too much. Contact your local dealer, tell them your exact application and ask them if your car requires the little bottle of stuff.
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1979 AMC Jeep Cherokee Chief
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Most Chrysler transmissions require a bottle of additive. Odds are, you only dumped 4-6 quarts (typical ATs have more than 12 quarts of fluid when dry) out since there isn't a good way to dump all the fluid out of the cooler, lines and torque converter so it shouldn't matter too much. Contact your local dealer, tell them your exact application and ask them if your car requires the little bottle of stuff.
My Jeep is unavailable for a picture right now, but it's easy to find.
PCM is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the firewall, aft of the coolant reservoir. You will have to remove the reservoir. The PCM is a square metal box mounted vertically to the firewall with three bolts. On the front, you will find three large rectangular connectors, one black, one white, one gray. Beneath the two outer connectors, you will find the two screws. You do not need to remove the connectors. The screws use a #25 Torx bit for removal. Back the screws out about 1/4" and see if that makes a difference. If you have the same problem I did, install two new 1/4 or 3/8 #6 sheet metal screws and your good to go. If not, come back with detailed info and I'll try to help. Good luck, and let me know what happens.
PCM is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the firewall, aft of the coolant reservoir. You will have to remove the reservoir. The PCM is a square metal box mounted vertically to the firewall with three bolts. On the front, you will find three large rectangular connectors, one black, one white, one gray. Beneath the two outer connectors, you will find the two screws. You do not need to remove the connectors. The screws use a #25 Torx bit for removal. Back the screws out about 1/4" and see if that makes a difference. If you have the same problem I did, install two new 1/4 or 3/8 #6 sheet metal screws and your good to go. If not, come back with detailed info and I'll try to help. Good luck, and let me know what happens.
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I'd clean the connectors with brake cleaner, put some dielectric grease on there and some fresh hardware. Check also for corrosion and loose wires. Those are supposed to be weather-tight connections but the seals do break down over time.
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Ok cool. Will try that thx.....
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