blue car and the dyno
Now that S&R has posted I wanted to tell what I witnessed on the day that Jerry blew his car. To start if Jerry felt that the Dyno was puting to much load on the car then he should not have got on it, second he was the one behind the wheel he saw the A/F was lean yet he stayed in it. We do work to our cars and we have to take responsability on what happens, to blame others is just Bullcrap. I am always at the shop and I have yet to see Jerry try to talk to Bobby or Jim in order the fix or get a good understanding of the facts. All I see here is the blame game being played by someone who had a mishap on the dyno. To start to bad talking a shop just starting out is LOW and will not benefit either party. Aslo Jerry you spoke with me after your mishap and you said " this was the same spot it blow before". I then asked you if you had the head milled before rebuild and you stated " No it looked good" and replyed you can't just look at it you have to properly measure and mill the surface. Stop and think before you do work on your car and then take count on what you tell others before you try to make yourslf some kind of victom, becouse it all comes back on you. Be a man and talk to them and stop the bullcrap posts with out trying to resolve this.
To Jerry,
I’m sorry about your misfortune
But here are the facts.
The Dyno is a load barring Dyno. This means Dyno can break down every RPM per Sec. You have the option from 200 RPM per Sec to 2000 RPM per Sec. The slower the climb, the more accurate the reading.
When you were here Saturday you saw the Busa running and saying it was loading the bike up and taking to long. Here is a couple things didn’t pay attention to
I’m questioning your ability on engine building. Why would you put a cylinder head on another Engine when it just blew a head gasket? Why wouldn’t you have your head milled? In fact you told me the head gasket blew in the same place.
My A/F has nothing to do with your engine blowing up. You had your own wideband that was reading in the 12’s. The O2 was bad and I have new in place and it is working great.
According Mark French you are pulling 17 degrees timing which is way too much.
I have an open door policy here. Not once did you approach me about this problem.
I have done 180 pulls since you. While Mark from Turbo Trix was here he never touched the Dyno.
Show me somewhere where it says that a load on a Dyno is the same on the street.
The only thing S&R performance is at fault here is some miscalculated HP Numbers that have been fixed. I have already posted a thread about the corrected numbers.
I would be willing to hold a class on how a Dyno works.
I’m sorry about your misfortune
But here are the facts.
The Dyno is a load barring Dyno. This means Dyno can break down every RPM per Sec. You have the option from 200 RPM per Sec to 2000 RPM per Sec. The slower the climb, the more accurate the reading.
When you were here Saturday you saw the Busa running and saying it was loading the bike up and taking to long. Here is a couple things didn’t pay attention to
- .Eddy controllers were turned off…..So there is no load.
- The owner took his time climbing up the rpm.
I’m questioning your ability on engine building. Why would you put a cylinder head on another Engine when it just blew a head gasket? Why wouldn’t you have your head milled? In fact you told me the head gasket blew in the same place.
My A/F has nothing to do with your engine blowing up. You had your own wideband that was reading in the 12’s. The O2 was bad and I have new in place and it is working great.
According Mark French you are pulling 17 degrees timing which is way too much.
I have an open door policy here. Not once did you approach me about this problem.
I have done 180 pulls since you. While Mark from Turbo Trix was here he never touched the Dyno.
Show me somewhere where it says that a load on a Dyno is the same on the street.
The only thing S&R performance is at fault here is some miscalculated HP Numbers that have been fixed. I have already posted a thread about the corrected numbers.
I would be willing to hold a class on how a Dyno works.
I was aware the hyabusa was not running a load when it was dynoed. But it was clear it took longer to pull through the RPM band than it normally would on the street. The owner of the bike was standing right there and admitted his bike goes through the rpm faster on the street. What this means is that bikes should not bother going to your dyno as even with no load the rollers are too heavy and place more load on the bike than it would ever see on the street. Your response again just proves you dont understand the concept of load bearing.
You question my ability to build an engine? The cylinder head was in fine condition when it was transferred to the new block. Thats why the car ran so well and won so many street races. I told you I "thought the gasket blew in the same spot" when we had our conversation. When I got home and found the gasket I saw I was incorrect and the gasket failed in a different spot. And even if the head wasn't flat it should have blown only the gasket, not the whole engine. As a mechanic it is more than obvious there was some extreme heat involved in what happened here. It is a direct result of too much load on the dyno. How many times do I have to state it took 13 seconds to go from 3000-5200? Imagine how long it would have taken to go 7500rpm. How bout 25 seconds? My car went the quarter in 11.9 seconds. Thats using all five gears. The simple fact is the dyno run was WAY TOO MUCH LOAD.
I didn't say your faulty a/f gauge blew up my car. I stated that my A/F gauge in the car was reading fine and it was the only gauge I was looking at during the pull. After the engine blew we looked at the dyno printout and read the 17-1 A/F. Rick at that time had no idea his WB was not reading correctly (and why should he the WB was only two days old?), so his stance was that my car was lean. WHICH IT WAS NOT.
I dont know why you want to quote Mark French about the tune on my car. He has never seen my car much less what kind of timing it runs. I only spoke with Mark once about the load on the dyno I was concerned for the shops sake that you guys didn't understand how load is to be used. I am not even going to print what he had to say about you guys.
I had hoped with taking my time and posting what went wrong here I would get a positive response from you. But to my dissapointment you seem to be clear about not taking any resposibilty here. You can mask the situation with all the cars that have been dynoed without problems. Two of the six cars dynoed on thursday and friday blew and you call that okay? The simple fact is not all the cars were dynoed with the load engaged. You need to learn how to use your dyno. I am already well respected here in the performance community. My achievemnets are well know from today to 20 years ago. You are going to have your work cut out for you with that attitude.
__________________
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV

my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
not trying to bash the shop or anything...but all of the incidents about 2 or 3 cars blowing up due to the dyno..and two employees that work at S&R telling me that my perfect tune of 11:1 is not so perfect b/c the fucked up wideband was reading an average of 16+ all occurred before mark from turbotrix fixed the dyno..so instead of lying to us by saying you knew how to work the dyno PROPERLY before mark from turbotrix came down and fixed it...why cant you guys just man up and admit what you did was wrong?
To Jerry,
I’m questioning your ability on engine building. Why would you put a cylinder head on another Engine when it just blew a head gasket? Why wouldn’t you have your head milled? In fact you told me the head gasket blew in the same place.[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR]
I’m questioning your ability on engine building. Why would you put a cylinder head on another Engine when it just blew a head gasket? Why wouldn’t you have your head milled? In fact you told me the head gasket blew in the same place.[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR]
As a former business owner and dyno operator of nearly 8 years, I'd recommend that you handle this situation differently, on both sides. I realize that there is pride at stake, but no one is coming off as professional in this matter. Certainly you two can resolve your differences without trashing each other publicly?
Well mister I know it all, do you know how to use a dyno NOT IF YOU DID YOU WOULD HAVE ONE AND DO THE SHIT YOUSELF. Stop talking shit you have no clue about. I was there I saw it and it was Jerrys fault. And the other car blew two or three days latter on the road not on the dyno. You guys need to grow up and tell things the way they are and stop putting your two cents in it becouse its just wothless.
__________________
Tuning, Builds, Assembly, Turbo Installs, Repairs and More
inductionperformance.com
ALPHA TUNED

Tuning, Builds, Assembly, Turbo Installs, Repairs and More
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Is anyone replying for S&R looking at the pics? Just look at the plugs. There was so much heat and detonation from the load of the dyno that the electrodes were blown completely off.
This car was running PERFECTLY before it went onto the rollers. There was no tuning being done to the car. The cars tune has nothing to do with the reason that it blew up.
If you would just look at the pics before making yourself sound dumb, it would answer all the questions in the world. The headgasket that was in question before this motor blew up barely had a crack in the gasket. The car was running perfectly even with a slightly blown headgasket. It certainly didnt blow to the point where it needed to be milled. The head surface was flat and was prepared correctly to be put on the current motor *which is now blown*.
The S&R crew should have known from the get-go that there was too much load on the dyno. If they went to the dyno manufacturer to understand how a dyno works, they would have known that under load, the full dyno pass should only take 4-5seconds tops, not 13seconds in the case of the evo. This also need to be into consideration that this 13second pull was from 3000-5200rpms. This wasnt even a full dyno pass. This was half the rpms the car normally sees.
To bring up the load again, why in the hell would a 147whp car blow up on the dyno? What would cause a bone stock suburu wagon to blow up? I just dont understand why you guys can't just open your eyes for one second to take a look at the possibilities. You had to turn the load setting off the dyno to do your dyno day. Why is that? Why didnt you just leave the load settings the way they were if they had nothing to do with the cars blowing up? The simple answer to that question is because you have no clue how to operate the dyno. Mark himself did not want anything to do with this dyno on the load settings because he himself knew you guys didnt know what you were doing. These are the facts and I think you should sit down amongst yourselves as a shop to contimplate how you plan to fix situations like this, because this is just the start.
Take my word for it. The shop you guys have is kick ass, but if no one there has any clue on how to do things properly, it wont be successful. All it takes is word of mouth to make a shop or break a shop. I want to see you all make it, but just remember this. It will only be as successful as you make it. Good luck on your journey and hopefully, you guys can fix this disaster.
This car was running PERFECTLY before it went onto the rollers. There was no tuning being done to the car. The cars tune has nothing to do with the reason that it blew up.
Now that S&R has posted I wanted to tell what I witnessed on the day that Jerry blew his car. To start if Jerry felt that the Dyno was puting to much load on the car then he should not have got on it, second he was the one behind the wheel he saw the A/F was lean yet he stayed in it. We do work to our cars and we have to take responsability on what happens, to blame others is just Bullcrap. I am always at the shop and I have yet to see Jerry try to talk to Bobby or Jim in order the fix or get a good understanding of the facts. All I see here is the blame game being played by someone who had a mishap on the dyno. To start to bad talking a shop just starting out is LOW and will not benefit either party. Aslo Jerry you spoke with me after your mishap and you said " this was the same spot it blow before". I then asked you if you had the head milled before rebuild and you stated " No it looked good" and replyed you can't just look at it you have to properly measure and mill the surface. Stop and think before you do work on your car and then take count on what you tell others before you try to make yourslf some kind of victom, becouse it all comes back on you. Be a man and talk to them and stop the bullcrap posts with out trying to resolve this.
The S&R crew should have known from the get-go that there was too much load on the dyno. If they went to the dyno manufacturer to understand how a dyno works, they would have known that under load, the full dyno pass should only take 4-5seconds tops, not 13seconds in the case of the evo. This also need to be into consideration that this 13second pull was from 3000-5200rpms. This wasnt even a full dyno pass. This was half the rpms the car normally sees.
To bring up the load again, why in the hell would a 147whp car blow up on the dyno? What would cause a bone stock suburu wagon to blow up? I just dont understand why you guys can't just open your eyes for one second to take a look at the possibilities. You had to turn the load setting off the dyno to do your dyno day. Why is that? Why didnt you just leave the load settings the way they were if they had nothing to do with the cars blowing up? The simple answer to that question is because you have no clue how to operate the dyno. Mark himself did not want anything to do with this dyno on the load settings because he himself knew you guys didnt know what you were doing. These are the facts and I think you should sit down amongst yourselves as a shop to contimplate how you plan to fix situations like this, because this is just the start.
Take my word for it. The shop you guys have is kick ass, but if no one there has any clue on how to do things properly, it wont be successful. All it takes is word of mouth to make a shop or break a shop. I want to see you all make it, but just remember this. It will only be as successful as you make it. Good luck on your journey and hopefully, you guys can fix this disaster.
__________________


Kevin *Slo Si* 9/13/06 RIP! You will be missed! Godspeed!

We will miss you Pablo. Take care man. 1!


Kevin *Slo Si* 9/13/06 RIP! You will be missed! Godspeed!

We will miss you Pablo. Take care man. 1!
Is anyone replying for S&R looking at the pics? Just look at the plugs. There was so much heat and detonation from the load of the dyno that the electrodes were blown completely off.
This car was running PERFECTLY before it went onto the rollers. There was no tuning being done to the car. The cars tune has nothing to do with the reason that it blew up.
If you would just look at the pics before making yourself sound dumb, it would answer all the questions in the world. The headgasket that was in question before this motor blew up barely had a crack in the gasket. The car was running perfectly even with a slightly blown headgasket. It certainly didnt blow to the point where it needed to be milled. The head surface was flat and was prepared correctly to be put on the current motor *which is now blown*.
The S&R crew should have known from the get-go that there was too much load on the dyno. If they went to the dyno manufacturer to understand how a dyno works, they would have known that under load, the full dyno pass should only take 4-5seconds tops, not 13seconds in the case of the evo. This also need to be into consideration that this 13second pull was from 3000-5200rpms. This wasnt even a full dyno pass. This was half the rpms the car normally sees.
To bring up the load again, why in the hell would a 147whp car blow up on the dyno? What would cause a bone stock suburu wagon to blow up? I just dont understand why you guys can't just open your eyes for one second to take a look at the possibilities. You had to turn the load setting off the dyno to do your dyno day. Why is that? Why didnt you just leave the load settings the way they were if they had nothing to do with the cars blowing up? The simple answer to that question is because you have no clue how to operate the dyno. Mark himself did not want anything to do with this dyno on the load settings because he himself knew you guys didnt know what you were doing. These are the facts and I think you should sit down amongst yourselves as a shop to contimplate how you plan to fix situations like this, because this is just the start.
Take my word for it. The shop you guys have is kick ass, but if no one there has any clue on how to do things properly, it wont be successful. All it takes is word of mouth to make a shop or break a shop. I want to see you all make it, but just remember this. It will only be as successful as you make it. Good luck on your journey and hopefully, you guys can fix this disaster.
This car was running PERFECTLY before it went onto the rollers. There was no tuning being done to the car. The cars tune has nothing to do with the reason that it blew up.
If you would just look at the pics before making yourself sound dumb, it would answer all the questions in the world. The headgasket that was in question before this motor blew up barely had a crack in the gasket. The car was running perfectly even with a slightly blown headgasket. It certainly didnt blow to the point where it needed to be milled. The head surface was flat and was prepared correctly to be put on the current motor *which is now blown*.
The S&R crew should have known from the get-go that there was too much load on the dyno. If they went to the dyno manufacturer to understand how a dyno works, they would have known that under load, the full dyno pass should only take 4-5seconds tops, not 13seconds in the case of the evo. This also need to be into consideration that this 13second pull was from 3000-5200rpms. This wasnt even a full dyno pass. This was half the rpms the car normally sees.
To bring up the load again, why in the hell would a 147whp car blow up on the dyno? What would cause a bone stock suburu wagon to blow up? I just dont understand why you guys can't just open your eyes for one second to take a look at the possibilities. You had to turn the load setting off the dyno to do your dyno day. Why is that? Why didnt you just leave the load settings the way they were if they had nothing to do with the cars blowing up? The simple answer to that question is because you have no clue how to operate the dyno. Mark himself did not want anything to do with this dyno on the load settings because he himself knew you guys didnt know what you were doing. These are the facts and I think you should sit down amongst yourselves as a shop to contimplate how you plan to fix situations like this, because this is just the start.
Take my word for it. The shop you guys have is kick ass, but if no one there has any clue on how to do things properly, it wont be successful. All it takes is word of mouth to make a shop or break a shop. I want to see you all make it, but just remember this. It will only be as successful as you make it. Good luck on your journey and hopefully, you guys can fix this disaster.
__________________
Tuning, Builds, Assembly, Turbo Installs, Repairs and More
inductionperformance.com
ALPHA TUNED

Tuning, Builds, Assembly, Turbo Installs, Repairs and More
inductionperformance.com
Well mister I know it all, do you know how to use a dyno NOT IF YOU DID YOU WOULD HAVE ONE AND DO THE SHIT YOUSELF. Stop talking shit you have no clue about. I was there I saw it and it was Jerrys fault. And the other car blew two or three days latter on the road not on the dyno. You guys need to grow up and tell things the way they are and stop putting your two cents in it becouse its just wothless.




