Powder Coat VS Painting (wheels)
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sooo...where's the turbo?
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Powder Coat VS Painting (wheels)
I've never seen a powerder coated anything in person. My main question is how thick is the coat? Is it thick and plastic looking up close or is nice and flat like a painted rim? Does it really come down to the person powder coating? Annnnd, what are the chances someone can mess up, and if they do is it reversible and they try again?
aspiring luder
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I've never seen a powerder coated anything in person. My main question is how thick is the coat? Is it thick and plastic looking up close or is nice and flat like a painted rim? Does it really come down to the person powder coating? Annnnd, what are the chances someone can mess up, and if they do is it reversible and they try again?
its very easy to screw up and you can sand down the offending part and recoat it, but the coat is thick enough, just try and find a rattle-can close enough so you can touch up
its better then a recoat
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Ecotec y0!
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or you can just eliminate the idea of getting your rims scratched at all and get a coat of teflon put on your rims.
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"Decide what you want, decide what you are willing to exchange for it. Establish your priorities and get to work."
Thread Starter
sooo...where's the turbo?
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Thanks for the replies. I really dont care too much about getting scratches, etc, I was just wondering the quality of powder coated rims to painted rims. How thick the powdercoat is/can be, etc.
Your Moms New Boyfriend
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When done properly, powder coatings are superior to liqiud paint. Both finish (smoothness) and durabilty are better with powder coatings. Coatings are available in all gloss levels, from flat/matte to super high, and different textures to acheive the desired look. There are many pictures of coated parts in my TR Gallery.
Powder coatiings are removable. It will depend on your coater what is considered a "acceptable" blemish/error. Stripping and re-coating costs money, so most coaters will allow very minor blems on secondary surfaces (back of wheel, anywhere its not readily viewable). Anything on the face/lip of the wheel would definitly require a strip/re-coat.
Powder coatings are measured in mils. In real world terms, a mil is about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. Coatings are applied in thicknesses between 2-4 mils, depending on the coating and the part being coated.
It comes down to cost. Powder coating can cost $90+ per wheel for a single, solid color. If you want the lip left uncoated, or a different color, it will be more. Liquid panting can be under $200 for a set of 4, if not much prep is needed. Its all about what you are willing to spend.
Powder coatiings are removable. It will depend on your coater what is considered a "acceptable" blemish/error. Stripping and re-coating costs money, so most coaters will allow very minor blems on secondary surfaces (back of wheel, anywhere its not readily viewable). Anything on the face/lip of the wheel would definitly require a strip/re-coat.
Powder coatings are measured in mils. In real world terms, a mil is about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. Coatings are applied in thicknesses between 2-4 mils, depending on the coating and the part being coated.
It comes down to cost. Powder coating can cost $90+ per wheel for a single, solid color. If you want the lip left uncoated, or a different color, it will be more. Liquid panting can be under $200 for a set of 4, if not much prep is needed. Its all about what you are willing to spend.
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Thread Starter
sooo...where's the turbo?
Joined: Oct 2002
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When done properly, powder coatings are
superior to liqiud paint. Both finish (smoothness) and durabilty are better with powder coatings. Coatings are available in all gloss levels, from flat/matte to super high, and different textures to acheive the desired look. There are many pictures of coated parts in my TR Gallery.
Powder coatiings are removable. It will depend on your coater what is considered a "acceptable" blemish/error. Stripping and re-coating costs money, so most coaters will allow very minor blems on secondary surfaces (back of wheel, anywhere its not readily viewable). Anything on the face/lip of the wheel would definitly require a strip/re-coat.
Powder coatings are measured in mils. In real world terms, a mil is about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. Coatings are applied in thicknesses between 2-4 mils, depending on the coating and the part being coated.
It comes down to cost. Powder coating can cost $90+ per wheel for a single, solid color. If you want the lip left uncoated, or a different color, it will be more. Liquid panting can be under $200 for a set of 4, if not much prep is needed. Its all about what you are willing to spend.
superior to liqiud paint. Both finish (smoothness) and durabilty are better with powder coatings. Coatings are available in all gloss levels, from flat/matte to super high, and different textures to acheive the desired look. There are many pictures of coated parts in my TR Gallery.
Powder coatiings are removable. It will depend on your coater what is considered a "acceptable" blemish/error. Stripping and re-coating costs money, so most coaters will allow very minor blems on secondary surfaces (back of wheel, anywhere its not readily viewable). Anything on the face/lip of the wheel would definitly require a strip/re-coat.
Powder coatings are measured in mils. In real world terms, a mil is about the thickness of a sheet of notebook paper. Coatings are applied in thicknesses between 2-4 mils, depending on the coating and the part being coated.
It comes down to cost. Powder coating can cost $90+ per wheel for a single, solid color. If you want the lip left uncoated, or a different color, it will be more. Liquid panting can be under $200 for a set of 4, if not much prep is needed. Its all about what you are willing to spend.
Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks!
Thread Starter
sooo...where's the turbo?
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