How a Nitrogen push system like pro-mod/10.5 cars using works
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How a Nitrogen push system like pro-mod/10.5 cars using works
http://www.outlawracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110
i thought it was a very cool read..last time i read it it was only on its first page..
i thought it was a very cool read..last time i read it it was only on its first page..
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Most of the pro-mod cars actually went away from using a push system not long after they started using them. The problem is as the car gets near the top end, the RPM and load are so high that going to a rich mixture keeps the motor alive. The push system is great for keeping a solid air/fuel ratio, but it ends up being a bit lean for the motor.
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i dont think u get fully how the nitrogen push system works..its keeps bottle pressure up and gives u the same amount of juice going threw the n2o noids..yes u are right that it will rich the engine on the top end but only because the engine aint getting the same shot size as in the first half it was getting.
the reason u dont see it on alot of pro-mods,10.5 cars or any big n2o cars is do to it being outlawed in alot of orgs.
orasca guys aint running them right now do to the fact they run in the 1/8 and dont see big ass pressure drops like u would see in the 1/4
them engines are tuned and see plenty of dyno time and they ramp the the fuel noids up on the top end alot on there own to make them run rich to not hurt so many parts..but they always do some weird shit with them engine..ask hill or kirk..3 years ago they ate up a total of like 13 engines just in orlando.
and bbb this is ghost 727
the reason u dont see it on alot of pro-mods,10.5 cars or any big n2o cars is do to it being outlawed in alot of orgs.
orasca guys aint running them right now do to the fact they run in the 1/8 and dont see big ass pressure drops like u would see in the 1/4
them engines are tuned and see plenty of dyno time and they ramp the the fuel noids up on the top end alot on there own to make them run rich to not hurt so many parts..but they always do some weird shit with them engine..ask hill or kirk..3 years ago they ate up a total of like 13 engines just in orlando.
and bbb this is ghost 727
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Originally Posted by BigBadBuick
Al?
the first link on that LS1tech thread I made a bunch of those posts (383LQ4SS). The new NOS Wizards electric nitrogen push is a direct copy of my last design in my opinion.I pasted that setup all over LS1tech and other places 4 years ago. Same switch, same on demand setup that I have been using for years on the street.
It works too.
Look at the dates on the LS1tech thread is 2004 and I had my electric N boost setup already done for over a year or two. NOSwizards latest design is an exact copy of mine and his is approx 2005/2006.
Heres mine.
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
Last edited by HybridSS; 07-18-2006 at 08:08 PM.
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damn al..that was u on there..i know that thread got robed from the grave on there..just because people where asking how steve kirk jr.s worked and it showed how it was done..
pm me a price on how much u would charge to build or do one for me..
pm me a price on how much u would charge to build or do one for me..
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When I get a chance...Ill post up the part #s and locations to buy the stuff. You can make one like mine for around $250. Its a piece of cake. I have made 3-4 for local people including Jeremy Formato and Dan ( JuicedSS262).
I thought about making kits a while back...but its too limited a market. Wouldnt be worth the time IMO. So I alwasy post up whats needed so the few who would want to run this setup can without getting raped.
I even have free -4 lines for whoever needs some
I thought about making kits a while back...but its too limited a market. Wouldnt be worth the time IMO. So I alwasy post up whats needed so the few who would want to run this setup can without getting raped.
I even have free -4 lines for whoever needs some
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
*Deadenbear 3000 psi CO2 solinoid PN 302absov $129 or so from summit or jegs
*Dynotune pressure switch from dynotune.org $49
*Either a 1500 psi ball valve or some type of check valve to allow nitrogen into the neck of the nitrous bottle...but not allow nitrous out when the nitrogen line is disconnected $10-$50 Can be had at your local hyd supply shop. It must flow well though. The freer flowing the better.
*two -4 3000 psi 18 inch lines
*Tees and unions to connect it all $30-$40
*switch and wires $15 or so
*optional direct reading gauges for n2 and nos if you want. The ones in the pic above where $19 each
And then you just need another bottle for the nitrogen...must be atleast a 2250 psi bottle if its near equal size. if its smaller but higher pressure youll have to do tha calculations on size VS pressure youll need to "push" and entire 10 or 15 lb bottle out.
And thats about it.
*Dynotune pressure switch from dynotune.org $49
*Either a 1500 psi ball valve or some type of check valve to allow nitrogen into the neck of the nitrous bottle...but not allow nitrous out when the nitrogen line is disconnected $10-$50 Can be had at your local hyd supply shop. It must flow well though. The freer flowing the better.
*two -4 3000 psi 18 inch lines
*Tees and unions to connect it all $30-$40
*switch and wires $15 or so
*optional direct reading gauges for n2 and nos if you want. The ones in the pic above where $19 each
And then you just need another bottle for the nitrogen...must be atleast a 2250 psi bottle if its near equal size. if its smaller but higher pressure youll have to do tha calculations on size VS pressure youll need to "push" and entire 10 or 15 lb bottle out.
And thats about it.
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
Originally Posted by Just Dave
Most of the pro-mod cars actually went away from using a push system not long after they started using them. The problem is as the car gets near the top end, the RPM and load are so high that going to a rich mixture keeps the motor alive. The push system is great for keeping a solid air/fuel ratio, but it ends up being a bit lean for the motor.
They might have gone away with them back then but they are kind of making a comeback in some circles. Mainly due to tha fact that tuning capabilities are much greater concerning just what you stated.
Going rch at the top of the track was always a bandaid IMO for poor overall tuning.
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap