ka24de-t 13?
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1140cc's of power
Joined: Jul 2003
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Originally Posted by John
its pretty simple with Hondas and Nissans
First one or two letters are engine family
The numbers that follow are engine displacement in liters
Now, for Honda, the letters after that designate version.
Any number after that dictates further differences, either for emissions controls for different countries or power output
For nissan, the numbers after displacement numbers are pretty straight forward. E stands for electronic fuel injection, D stands for Dual Cam, T stands for turbo, TT stands for twin turbo, V stands for variable cam
Since honda and nissan are the most popular engines to speak of in the import world, that should help you not be totally lost when someone says VG30DETT
First one or two letters are engine family
The numbers that follow are engine displacement in liters
Now, for Honda, the letters after that designate version.
Any number after that dictates further differences, either for emissions controls for different countries or power output
For nissan, the numbers after displacement numbers are pretty straight forward. E stands for electronic fuel injection, D stands for Dual Cam, T stands for turbo, TT stands for twin turbo, V stands for variable cam
Since honda and nissan are the most popular engines to speak of in the import world, that should help you not be totally lost when someone says VG30DETT
kings cannot fall.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,784
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i still stand by my reasoning that if all you care about is running some number in a straight line, buy a 5.0 or a camaro.
13's arent exactly fast, and its not super cheap to get there reliably.
13's arent exactly fast, and its not super cheap to get there reliably.
7M 2JZ bird in pear tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 8,532
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Bleh, just drop a SBC in it? 
Some of us import guys make fun of your simple codes...LS1, LT1, LT4...wtf? That doesnt say anything! At least Mitsu says how many cyl. and what fuel it uses (aka 4G63, 4 means 4 banger G means Gasoline, not sure what 6 and 3 mean though).
I personally think Nissan and Toyota have the best codes. Once you decipher them, its easy as fuck to read them, remember them, and suddenly know much more about it than just "LS6"...like Toyota...7M-GTE: 7th in the M series of engines, which are all OHC EFI Inline 6ex's, G for performance DOHC, T for turbo, no matter how many turbos it has, which is why its 2JZ-GTE not GTTE, E for EFI as opposed to carbs...
Theres also stuff like 1G-FEu which is the first "G series engine" (2.0 Inline 6 pos), F for economy DOHC head, and lowercase "u" for emissions. Also, "Z" is supercharged (a la 4A-GZE) and S is direct injection IIRC.
Some of us import guys make fun of your simple codes...LS1, LT1, LT4...wtf? That doesnt say anything! At least Mitsu says how many cyl. and what fuel it uses (aka 4G63, 4 means 4 banger G means Gasoline, not sure what 6 and 3 mean though).
I personally think Nissan and Toyota have the best codes. Once you decipher them, its easy as fuck to read them, remember them, and suddenly know much more about it than just "LS6"...like Toyota...7M-GTE: 7th in the M series of engines, which are all OHC EFI Inline 6ex's, G for performance DOHC, T for turbo, no matter how many turbos it has, which is why its 2JZ-GTE not GTTE, E for EFI as opposed to carbs...
Theres also stuff like 1G-FEu which is the first "G series engine" (2.0 Inline 6 pos), F for economy DOHC head, and lowercase "u" for emissions. Also, "Z" is supercharged (a la 4A-GZE) and S is direct injection IIRC.
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ASE: Brakes
Yea..that very well could have been the most retarded idea I've ever heard, but .. do it anyway. -TheShow50h
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Yea..that very well could have been the most retarded idea I've ever heard, but .. do it anyway. -TheShow50h
Get the fuck off my lawn
Joined: Oct 1983
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Toyota's F and G codes technically refer to an economy and sport head design, but in reality an F head has 22.5* angled ports, a G head has 45* angled ports, in relation to the valves.
for $3,000, buy a boost designs stage 1 kit for $2000, spend the other 1,000 on a clutch, injectors, and either an s-afc, or a romtune w/z32 mafs. and a fuel pump $100.
mars, even though bill did 14.x in his car, thats a rarity. alot of modded n/a KA motors do the same power, but many weigh more, or just can't drive 1/4 mile too well.
for $3,000, buy a boost designs stage 1 kit for $2000, spend the other 1,000 on a clutch, injectors, and either an s-afc, or a romtune w/z32 mafs. and a fuel pump $100.
mars, even though bill did 14.x in his car, thats a rarity. alot of modded n/a KA motors do the same power, but many weigh more, or just can't drive 1/4 mile too well.
