Any pointers on Do-It-Yourself Body Work
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Using a DA will only knock the bondo down a little faster. You need a good hard sanding block to finish the bondo. After using the sanding block, if you don't have actual guide coat, spray a little black spray paint on it and then sand with the block again. After you sand and if you still see the spary paint, those will be your low spots. Fill in the low spots with a little more bondo. Then repeaqt the process untill the paint comes off evenly. If you don't have a lot of experience, feeling by hand will be hard because you don't know what your actually looking for. Finish the final sand with 360 grit paper and then prime. Wet sand the primer with 600 grit using a SOFT sanding block. For best results, after sanding the primer, prime and block again. Just take your time and you'll be impressed with what a little patience can do. GL
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Originally posted by SlickMatB
Single Stage. Its just going to Jet Black, nothing crazy or special. Im kind of going for that intimidator look, Blacked out everything, with the exception of the SS badging and Lighting. Normally I would take it somewhere and get it done, but I like learning new fields, and if Im going to be restoring cars as a hobby, Id better learn how to do most of it myself.
Single Stage. Its just going to Jet Black, nothing crazy or special. Im kind of going for that intimidator look, Blacked out everything, with the exception of the SS badging and Lighting. Normally I would take it somewhere and get it done, but I like learning new fields, and if Im going to be restoring cars as a hobby, Id better learn how to do most of it myself.
And as what was said ealiar, If you have access to a long block, finish off bondo that covers a large area with the long block. I seriously I don't ever recconemd using anything higher than 120grit when sanding bondo, because you need to feel the imperfections, and a 320 grit or higher will just smooth the surface of the bondo, and make it seem like its good. But it will still probably be wavy as hell.
Also, For small impefections after you prime, and are noticble use some putty on them, and use a 320 or higher grit to sand. Oh, and re-apply primer to areas where you use putty, because most of the time you will sand away the primer.
The sand paper, and techniques I use may vary a bit from working on cards, I tend to work mostly with bare metals (Aluminum). And no one gets as close as a look at the paint as cars.
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I like PENIS!!!
Joined: Jul 2004
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I was thinking about just stripping it down to bare metal but that is a lot of work, and Im not sure if I would even need to take it THAT far. Thanks for all the input though everyone, I might take your advice and opt for the two stage.
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What? Its just a truck...
What? Its just a truck...
