Because that other thread was taking a while to load, and get to the last page.

My 277hp '91 CRX
1/4 mile 13.256
60ft 2.372
MPH 102.06
R/T 1.222
Surprised a 944 turbo owner. Beat one earlier as well, but this one sounded like he would have been too much.
(It said "Competitive" which I took to mean I'd lose. He thought so too...i.e. "How the hell do you have your car set up?")

Need to get my R/T down by I assume raising Skill level, and while I wait for more stages of nitrous I will be fiddling with (reading forums for advice first) tire pressure, and deciding whether I need new tires or not.

Just wanted to update the team(s) on what I've done since having "quit" a few days ago (:

 

isn't that time kind of low for a nearly 300hp light car

 

High rather.

 

Just bumped up my skill level and happy juice level as well. 233 hp is what I roll with now. Would have been farther along had my car not been stolen early on.

Just ran a 15 flat...woohoo.

 

What are your tuning tricks?

 

Yes.

I am using stock tires, and 36psi front and rear, haven't messed with any of that section yet. Maybe after another stage of nitrous and tuning, I'll start on traction. I need to read up on how much tires (@$1,600) will help. I can spend the time saving money for reading.

I'm debating turboing the car, or ditching it for another, more powerful car to build on.

 

The KDW's I have arent for shit...just a FYI.

 

<---360whp+ mid 12's own j00!

Your on my team though,we kick the other TR teams asses'

 

ps-check the "tam chat" for my mods,exact times and so on its a eg hatch

 

Uh...buy the best parts available.
Ok maybe not the best, I did skip on the $1,200 exhaust and went with a $500 one I think. But there's no sense in spending $400 only to find out that the $500 was better, and if it's not, it's only $100 lost. If it takes 30 credits to install, that's $120 wasted if you buy the wrong one (@$4/credit for working, approximately)

How I tune my A/F ratio:
I go into Photoshop, load up the dyno chart, copied off the website.

Then I zoom in as far as I can, and section off every 500 rpm interval (It only does 1k rpm intervals on the chart, but you have to tune every 500 rpm), find the intersection with the dyno line, make lines across the chart at each of the intersection points, approximate where the lines in-between would go, and then you have each line telling you how far over/under 13.5 your A/F ratio is.

Then make a line across at 13.5 on the chart.
(make a "X" with 2 lines in one of the boxes and then make a horizontal line, or just count pixels (there's 41 I believe between horizontal lines, so 20 above, 20 below the 13.5 line.)

I write down on a piece of paper, from 1k rpm to 9k rpm, +/- for each 500 rpm interval intersection. If it's 1 line above the 13.5 line, then that's a +1. If it's 4 lines below, it's a -4.

Then go to the dyno, and adjust each interval by the +/-. If it was at 68, and was a +7 (7 lines above 13.5) then I add 68+7 to get 75, which is the new setting at that interval. This is why I usually do a first baseline dyno at 80, so I'm dealing with one number to adjust, easier to not make mistakes.

Well... you asked