Brakes
Originally posted by Tom
just stick to better pads, a high temp brake fluid and some stainless steel brake lines, you should have no problem with fade, unless you constantly go 100+mph and slam on the brakes
drilled, slotted etc. are just for the pimp factor on a street car....want pimp factor? go ahead, but its alot more money than just pads and fluid
just stick to better pads, a high temp brake fluid and some stainless steel brake lines, you should have no problem with fade, unless you constantly go 100+mph and slam on the brakes
drilled, slotted etc. are just for the pimp factor on a street car....want pimp factor? go ahead, but its alot more money than just pads and fluid
That should clear 98% of your issues.
If you decide you want to increase brake performance, next upgrade is pads. go with a metal content or dual purpose pad. Ferrado or pagid or hawk make excellent dual purpose - next down the price game is axxxis - they are typically much cheaper but more of a street/track than track/street.
Be forwarned - some of the harder compounds can squeek and many take a higher operating temp before they start working. so your street brake performance may actually suffer. Some of the track pads also create a butt load of dust - so if you have wheels that are hard to clean - keep this in consideration.
From there - you may decide on rotors - for the bling factor - the drilled rotors are way up there - just be careful AND inspect them often, at least every six months. The drilled rotors can increase cooling - but they can also wear the pads MUCH quicker than a plain rotor - again inspect often.
My pref is either the gas slotted or dimpled. But you are the one that has to decide.
Originally posted by Chuck 98 RT/10
Drilled have been known to crack. Do not mistake Porsche or Ferrari as drilled. They look drilled but they are actually casted with the dimples in them, big difference.
The main purpose of the slots/dimples are to allow brake dust to escape as the pad is pressed against the disc.
Cooling advantages come from the fin design between the disc. Something street cars don't have and don't need. Nor do they need slots or dimples.
Drilled have been known to crack. Do not mistake Porsche or Ferrari as drilled. They look drilled but they are actually casted with the dimples in them, big difference.
The main purpose of the slots/dimples are to allow brake dust to escape as the pad is pressed against the disc.
Cooling advantages come from the fin design between the disc. Something street cars don't have and don't need. Nor do they need slots or dimples.
stoptech makes a nice kit - I have the 355mm slotted rotor running pagid oranges. Drilled/cast holes looks cooler but tend to crack up a bit. You can always spend 15k on the porsche ceramic kit! haha
Wilwood makes good kits too
__________________
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower"
-Mark Donohue
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower"
-Mark Donohue
Originally posted by g-50Cab
Mine are drilled - from the factory. I also have an under the A-arm scoop that picks up air and shoves it through the hub, and into the rotor itself escaping through the holes and the vanes in the rotor.
Mine are drilled - from the factory. I also have an under the A-arm scoop that picks up air and shoves it through the hub, and into the rotor itself escaping through the holes and the vanes in the rotor.
I have used one of those scoops (Porsche air deflector) you're talking about. They didn't help cool my brakes at all. Others have said the same, some have not (must have something to do with Porsche design and the holes most likely). Now each side has two 3-inch hoses doing a good job.
__________________
Chuck
www.BabelMotorsports.net
www.SAFEMotorsports.com
Chuck
www.BabelMotorsports.net
www.SAFEMotorsports.com
Cahills Yamaha carries Motul but you really don't need it for the street. DOT4 will suffice.
I'm thinking cars, not sure about bikes.
I'm thinking cars, not sure about bikes.
__________________
Chuck
www.BabelMotorsports.net
www.SAFEMotorsports.com
Chuck
www.BabelMotorsports.net
www.SAFEMotorsports.com
I was talking about cars too, bt I didn't know of any auto places that carry Motul other than bike shops for dirt bikes and such. I'm thinking I will deff have to have a higher boiling point brake fluid since I now have a turbo and it sits merely an inch or so from the master cylinder. I don't need my brake pedal falling to the floor when I approach a busy intersection.
Sorry Chuck, but in florida dry boiling point doesn't mean dick. As soon as you open a bottle you are introducing moisture to it. Yes, most bike shops carry motul 600 - sometimes you have to call around for it.
__________________
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower"
-Mark Donohue
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower"
-Mark Donohue




