Let's talk about oil...
Alright I've been to a bunch of manufacturers websites but some of the info and recommendations for usage contradicts it's self. Just trying toclear some things up. I understand why you cannot use synthetic in a new car until 5000 miles b/c the engine has not been properly broken in yet. But then it states that it should not be used in high mileage cars either. If the cylinder pressure,rings,etc. are fine and the car is not burning any oil why not. I can't get a straight answer.
The 15W-50 is recommended for "high perfomance-high revving cars" because they run hotter, but not for regular N/A cars.
If you live somewhere that's hot ass hell (like Florida summer in bumper to bumper traffic) wouldn't your 1.6 liter n/a Honda need it as much. Or is it that a small engine like that is not as efficient with an oil that heavy?
Discuss!
The 15W-50 is recommended for "high perfomance-high revving cars" because they run hotter, but not for regular N/A cars.
If you live somewhere that's hot ass hell (like Florida summer in bumper to bumper traffic) wouldn't your 1.6 liter n/a Honda need it as much. Or is it that a small engine like that is not as efficient with an oil that heavy?
Discuss!
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"There's more flawless engineering in a Camry than all the berlinettas Enzo ever conjured while lying next to mistresses." - John Phillips/Car and Driver

The swapped hatch hotness
Slow Five-Oh Rustang
the reason you don't use it on high milegale cars is because all of the carbon build up in the engine with regular non synthetic and then it will lose compression when you change it
i am pretty sure on that one...
i am pretty sure on that one...
synthetic builds deposits, cold weather needs thinner oil due to its materical make up oil with slug under code conditions thinner is harder to slug up in cold weather, Hot weather needs THICK becuase of molecular breakdown at hig rpm and high heat.
If you run a 5w-30 in a highrevving high compression high hp car your gonna cook the oil. run a heavier oil, Thinner oil can also bypass rings like water
slow engine like diesals use SLUG lol high comprression low RPM heat breaks down the oil. 10w30 is a good is good for a beefed up car. Turbo needs a special oil that will withstand its heat. Synthetics are just that synthetic They are good for Aluminum blocks and the like. Natural oils have impurioties and junk. Synth is a better oil for performace engines. Its viscosity is 100 times better than natural. Sytnthetics are engineers for high performance. Breaking in an engine with sytnthetics you have to stay with synthetics. and vis versa. Depends on your application. and what your putting it in and the region you live in.
If you run a 5w-30 in a highrevving high compression high hp car your gonna cook the oil. run a heavier oil, Thinner oil can also bypass rings like water
slow engine like diesals use SLUG lol high comprression low RPM heat breaks down the oil. 10w30 is a good is good for a beefed up car. Turbo needs a special oil that will withstand its heat. Synthetics are just that synthetic They are good for Aluminum blocks and the like. Natural oils have impurioties and junk. Synth is a better oil for performace engines. Its viscosity is 100 times better than natural. Sytnthetics are engineers for high performance. Breaking in an engine with sytnthetics you have to stay with synthetics. and vis versa. Depends on your application. and what your putting it in and the region you live in.
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Synthetics don't leave sludge, dino does. Dino oil breaks down, smaller molecules boil off, larger molecules bind together forming sludge. Synthetics are uniform in size molecules, meaning they resist burning off.
Please...read something about synthetics before posting.
I switched to synthetic in my MX-6. It ran just the same as with dino. I popped a coolant line one too many times leading to a bad head gasket, but no oil problems. No excessive leaking either.
I switched my Tempo to synthetic as well. Ran it about 20,000 miles, with one filter, which is still on the car 5,000 miles later. I now have dino in the Tempo, because I knew the oil needed changed, and really didn't feel like putting out the money on the Tempo anymore. If I thought I'd get reliable miles out of it, I might have, but miles rack up quick on 60+ miles/day driving.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Synthetics don't leave sludge, dino does. Dino oil breaks down, smaller molecules boil off, larger molecules bind together forming sludge. Synthetics are uniform in size molecules, meaning they resist burning off.
Please...read something about synthetics before posting.
I switched to synthetic in my MX-6. It ran just the same as with dino. I popped a coolant line one too many times leading to a bad head gasket, but no oil problems. No excessive leaking either.
I switched my Tempo to synthetic as well. Ran it about 20,000 miles, with one filter, which is still on the car 5,000 miles later. I now have dino in the Tempo, because I knew the oil needed changed, and really didn't feel like putting out the money on the Tempo anymore. If I thought I'd get reliable miles out of it, I might have, but miles rack up quick on 60+ miles/day driving.
Originally posted by Illswyn
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
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Yet I was told by a Turbonetics not to run synthetic because it will eventually leave residue in my turbo not to mention it will blow through the breathers like mad, which is what happened on my car before the turbo.
I have read lots of additional info. that says not to run synthetic on turbo cars that get more than track use.
I have read lots of additional info. that says not to run synthetic on turbo cars that get more than track use.
Originally posted by Illswyn
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Synthetics don't leave sludge, dino does. Dino oil breaks down, smaller molecules boil off, larger molecules bind together forming sludge. Synthetics are uniform in size molecules, meaning they resist burning off.
Please...read something about synthetics before posting.
I switched to synthetic in my MX-6. It ran just the same as with dino. I popped a coolant line one too many times leading to a bad head gasket, but no oil problems. No excessive leaking either.
I switched my Tempo to synthetic as well. Ran it about 20,000 miles, with one filter, which is still on the car 5,000 miles later. I now have dino in the Tempo, because I knew the oil needed changed, and really didn't feel like putting out the money on the Tempo anymore. If I thought I'd get reliable miles out of it, I might have, but miles rack up quick on 60+ miles/day driving.
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Synthetics don't leave sludge, dino does. Dino oil breaks down, smaller molecules boil off, larger molecules bind together forming sludge. Synthetics are uniform in size molecules, meaning they resist burning off.
Please...read something about synthetics before posting.
I switched to synthetic in my MX-6. It ran just the same as with dino. I popped a coolant line one too many times leading to a bad head gasket, but no oil problems. No excessive leaking either.
I switched my Tempo to synthetic as well. Ran it about 20,000 miles, with one filter, which is still on the car 5,000 miles later. I now have dino in the Tempo, because I knew the oil needed changed, and really didn't feel like putting out the money on the Tempo anymore. If I thought I'd get reliable miles out of it, I might have, but miles rack up quick on 60+ miles/day driving.
Originally posted by Illswyn
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Synthetics don't leave sludge, dino does. Dino oil breaks down, smaller molecules boil off, larger molecules bind together forming sludge. Synthetics are uniform in size molecules, meaning they resist burning off.
Please...read something about synthetics before posting.
I switched to synthetic in my MX-6. It ran just the same as with dino. I popped a coolant line one too many times leading to a bad head gasket, but no oil problems. No excessive leaking either.
I switched my Tempo to synthetic as well. Ran it about 20,000 miles, with one filter, which is still on the car 5,000 miles later. I now have dino in the Tempo, because I knew the oil needed changed, and really didn't feel like putting out the money on the Tempo anymore. If I thought I'd get reliable miles out of it, I might have, but miles rack up quick on 60+ miles/day driving.
Misinformation.
You break in a car on dino. After the break-in period, you can use synthetic. You can switch back and forth all you like, mix them if you want. They're completely compatible. Saying they're not is 30 yr old advice, because that's about when synthetics were made to be compatible with dino oil. So, unless you're pouring 30 year old synthetic into your car, or you have 30 year old synthetic in your car, that information is just plain FALSE.
Synthetics don't leave sludge, dino does. Dino oil breaks down, smaller molecules boil off, larger molecules bind together forming sludge. Synthetics are uniform in size molecules, meaning they resist burning off.
Please...read something about synthetics before posting.
I switched to synthetic in my MX-6. It ran just the same as with dino. I popped a coolant line one too many times leading to a bad head gasket, but no oil problems. No excessive leaking either.
I switched my Tempo to synthetic as well. Ran it about 20,000 miles, with one filter, which is still on the car 5,000 miles later. I now have dino in the Tempo, because I knew the oil needed changed, and really didn't feel like putting out the money on the Tempo anymore. If I thought I'd get reliable miles out of it, I might have, but miles rack up quick on 60+ miles/day driving.
The most common reason I've heard for not using synthetic in high mileage cars is that they're more prone to leak due to the higher tolerances of a well worn engine.
My car came with synthetic new, so I guess it's up to the manufacturer whether or not they use synthetic for the break-in period.
My car came with synthetic new, so I guess it's up to the manufacturer whether or not they use synthetic for the break-in period.


