To Nitrous, or not to Nitrous ??
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To Nitrous, or not to Nitrous ??
Hello All !
I have a few questions regarding using Nitrous.
1) what is considered a safe " Shot Of Nitrous"(On an 02 GT)?
2) does it shorten the life of an engine (when installed correctly of course)?
3)Which type of kit is the best to use on a 2002 Mustang GT (I.E. wet, dry, Direct Port..etc)?
4) once installed, What is the best and safest way to use Nitrous for streat racing?
5) is there any kind of "NOS for Dummies" book out there us who are completely new to Nitrous?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Here are my current Mods: will they all work safely with Nitrous?
Mods:
Suspension: Steeda Springs, Steeda Caster/Camber plates,
Steeda Strut Tower Brace
Drive Train: 3.73 Pro 5.0 Gear, FR Aluminum Drive Shaft
Induction:K&N Filter, 85 mm C & L meter, FR 70mm Throttle
Body
Exhaust: Magna Flow X pipe w/ cats, Magnaflow Cat Back
Other Mods: Steeda Tri-ax Shifter, Speed Cal
I have a few questions regarding using Nitrous.
1) what is considered a safe " Shot Of Nitrous"(On an 02 GT)?
2) does it shorten the life of an engine (when installed correctly of course)?
3)Which type of kit is the best to use on a 2002 Mustang GT (I.E. wet, dry, Direct Port..etc)?
4) once installed, What is the best and safest way to use Nitrous for streat racing?
5) is there any kind of "NOS for Dummies" book out there us who are completely new to Nitrous?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Here are my current Mods: will they all work safely with Nitrous?
Mods:
Suspension: Steeda Springs, Steeda Caster/Camber plates,
Steeda Strut Tower Brace
Drive Train: 3.73 Pro 5.0 Gear, FR Aluminum Drive Shaft
Induction:K&N Filter, 85 mm C & L meter, FR 70mm Throttle
Body
Exhaust: Magna Flow X pipe w/ cats, Magnaflow Cat Back
Other Mods: Steeda Tri-ax Shifter, Speed Cal
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Rob
02 Saleen S281SC Vert
04 CBR600RR
Rob
02 Saleen S281SC Vert
04 CBR600RR
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Well I am not the in house mod expert but I have some good knowledge of nitrous systems.
Safe on your car would probably be 125 or less with the appropriate air fuel ratios.
It will not wear out the engine if you keep the fuel / air fuel ratios in check. If you run through a lot of bottles it has been said it will shorten ring life but my 13 year old motor that has had lots of juice through it is still running strong.
The new Nozzle kit from NOS seems to be a nice kit for your car.
Not sure I understand question 4.
There is actually a article on the NOS website that is titled "NOS for Dummies"
It was there years ago anyway.
Glad to see another new member. Enjoy the forum, we have a great group of regulars in here.
Safe on your car would probably be 125 or less with the appropriate air fuel ratios.
It will not wear out the engine if you keep the fuel / air fuel ratios in check. If you run through a lot of bottles it has been said it will shorten ring life but my 13 year old motor that has had lots of juice through it is still running strong.
The new Nozzle kit from NOS seems to be a nice kit for your car.
Not sure I understand question 4.
There is actually a article on the NOS website that is titled "NOS for Dummies"
It was there years ago anyway.Glad to see another new member. Enjoy the forum, we have a great group of regulars in here.
whoopdy fucking do!
Joined: Jun 2001
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a dry kit should be used for your car since you have the returnless system......
i'd go with a max of a 125 shot (because of the internals)
use a window switch
and prefferably have a tune done becaues those returnless setups like to run lean......
maybe get the double fuel pump setup for your car to make sure....
and once it is all installed run it on the dyno with the wideband 02 to make sure it is at the correct a/f ratio
i'd go with a max of a 125 shot (because of the internals)
use a window switch
and prefferably have a tune done becaues those returnless setups like to run lean......
maybe get the double fuel pump setup for your car to make sure....
and once it is all installed run it on the dyno with the wideband 02 to make sure it is at the correct a/f ratio
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On 2 valve cars they have a serious problem with the intakes cracking on the sauce. Be careful. Why do you need nitrous anyway. Do you run it at the track or do you spray it from one red light to the next.:o
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2001 cobra
Solid axle swap 4.30's
Mac H-pipe Bullitt cat-back
Steeda uppers.
K N open Filter
12.344 at 110.24 mph
with a 1.796 "60"
on wore BF Dr.
2001 cobra
Solid axle swap 4.30's
Mac H-pipe Bullitt cat-back
Steeda uppers.
K N open Filter
12.344 at 110.24 mph
with a 1.796 "60"
on wore BF Dr.
Daddy-O
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haven't heard of the issue with the intakes cracking, what is the reason behind that????
Pretty much what everyone said is right on, also remember to retard your timing 2 degrees for every 50HP you add (keeps you safe). you might think about getting an MSD box with a timing adjuster module so you can adjust from the drivers seat, I think the 6AL would be fine for you.
don't forget these:
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
bottle warmer
remote bottle opener (not needed, but nice to have)
Welcome!
Pretty much what everyone said is right on, also remember to retard your timing 2 degrees for every 50HP you add (keeps you safe). you might think about getting an MSD box with a timing adjuster module so you can adjust from the drivers seat, I think the 6AL would be fine for you.
don't forget these:
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
bottle warmer
remote bottle opener (not needed, but nice to have)
Welcome!
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Its is very common to have the intakes crack on 2 valve cars all of there intakes are plastic. I am sure someone will chime in with a story. Personally it has happen to several people at the tracks I have been to.
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2001 cobra
Solid axle swap 4.30's
Mac H-pipe Bullitt cat-back
Steeda uppers.
K N open Filter
12.344 at 110.24 mph
with a 1.796 "60"
on wore BF Dr.
2001 cobra
Solid axle swap 4.30's
Mac H-pipe Bullitt cat-back
Steeda uppers.
K N open Filter
12.344 at 110.24 mph
with a 1.796 "60"
on wore BF Dr.
I have fuzzy eyebrows
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,269
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Are you shure those cracks werent from "nitrous backfires" while running a wet kit? The Ford intake is the same material the LS1 intake is made of and they never crack...never from using nitrous. Ive run a 325 shot through mine (200 dry and 125 wet) and had no intake problems.
All of the above info is good stuff. I just might add using a window switch to activate your nitrous at a specific rpm and shut it off at a specific rpm is a nice safety feature as well as a fuel pressure safety switch to shut the system down if fuel pressure falls below a set minimum. There is also a new add on safety feature that uses an 02 sensor to instantly shut down the system should it become lean.
The more of these safety features you use the better off you will be. Also always ensure your fuel system is up to snuff and a 125 should be no problem
All of the above info is good stuff. I just might add using a window switch to activate your nitrous at a specific rpm and shut it off at a specific rpm is a nice safety feature as well as a fuel pressure safety switch to shut the system down if fuel pressure falls below a set minimum. There is also a new add on safety feature that uses an 02 sensor to instantly shut down the system should it become lean.
The more of these safety features you use the better off you will be. Also always ensure your fuel system is up to snuff and a 125 should be no problem
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Yeah, the earlier 2v intakes are prone to cracking. Don't think the 99+ 2v intakes have that same problem. A 125 dry shot should last awhile as long you don't play stupid.. For maximum safety use a window switch, fuel pressure safety switch and drop in an intank pump to supply more fuel. Invest in a Steeda timing adjuster and back the timing down 2-3 degrees also for added safety.
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