Fuel guage stuck on EMPTY !!!!!!! PLEASE HELP
89 2.3 91 SSP 5.0
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Fuel guage stuck on EMPTY !!!!!!! PLEASE HELP
Ok, the car is a 91 SSP 5.0 coupe with and auto. I have changed the sending unit with a known working unit. Nothing changed still reads on E. tried a different cluster and different ANTI-SLOSH mod. Still no change. I know the guage works cause when i unplug the anti slosh module the guage pegs past full. I tried unplugging the harness at the sending unit, the guage stayed on E, when i know it should have read full. is there a ground that could be ungrounded somewhere in the harness behind the cluster?
Every other guage is fine except the fuel guage. the cluster doesnt look burnt or anything.
I am running out of idea's as to what else it could be. i even changed the wiring harness going to the sending unit with no luck. anyone know anything else i could do that i havent tried?
Thanks
Every other guage is fine except the fuel guage. the cluster doesnt look burnt or anything.
I am running out of idea's as to what else it could be. i even changed the wiring harness going to the sending unit with no luck. anyone know anything else i could do that i havent tried?
Thanks
A better way to check it would be to operate the float arm slowly and see what the gauge does, the way you're doing it can lead you in the wrong direction. Make sure the gauge is grounded, most issues that I have come across with regarding sender units are ground related. I ran into a Ranger once where the float arm would hang up in the internal wiring harness. Check all the connections to the gauge with a test light or voltmeter, once that is done, check the sending unit then work your way back up to the gauge cluster.
You can unplug the sender and check the unit itself with a ohm meter, operate the lever, watch the meter.
You can unplug the sender and check the unit itself with a ohm meter, operate the lever, watch the meter.
Last edited by blacksheep-1; 11-08-2012 at 03:51 PM.
Ohms won't measure current, it only measures resistance, so you can only use it on the sending unit AFTER it's disconnected from the car's electrical system. The "ohm" meter feature, which is on most multi meters looks like a sideways figure 8. Basically, hold one side of the meter to the unit's body, then connect the other lead to the negative terminal on the sending unit (it may be positive, it's been awhile, just check both, since there is no current, it won't hurt anything. if you "miss"). What you are looking for, at the sending unit, is for the meter to move up and down the gauge as you move the float lever. If that happens then the sending unit is OK, your problem is somewhere else besides the sending unit.
Last edited by blacksheep-1; 11-09-2012 at 01:39 PM. Reason: spelling
89 2.3 91 SSP 5.0
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Ohms won't measure current, it only measures resistance, so you can only use it on the sending unit AFTER it's disconnected from the car's electrical system. The "ohm" meter feature, which is on most multi meters looks like a sideways figure 8. Basically, hold one side of the meter to the unit's body, then connect the other lead to the negative terminal on the sending unit (it may be positive, it's been awhile, just check both, since there is no current, it won't hurt anything. if you "miss"). What you are looking for, at the sending unit, is for the meter to move up and down the gauge as you move the float lever. If that happens then the sending unit is OK, your problem is somewhere else besides the sending unit.
When the anti slosh module is working correctly, if you unplug the harness at the sending unit. The fuel gauge will peg past full, telling you the sending unit is bad.
I unplugged that plug before I changed the sending unit the first time and the gauge never moved, so I know that 1.50 part fixed the anti slosh module. Going to buy a new sending unit as I now know that is the only thing left.
Thanks for the info
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