Well I finally decided to go with a Spintech X-pipe(ordered)and JBA Headers (yet to be bought) and perhaps changing the side exhaust to spintech's mufflers and retaining the factory look,but kick up the sound alot.

The Spintech X uses Dr.Gas crossovers and has the X in the front just like Dr.Gas but is $50 cheaper 249.95 instead of 299.95.Dr.Gas themselves told me they have the patent to spintech mufflers and they use thier crossovers.They might be in the same building for all I know.But spintech and Dr.gas told that they cant put the crossover any closer to the headers so I think they are probably the same design and I know people that have gained 20-30rwhp+ with the JBA and dr.gas combo.And added bonus will be not having to worry about ground clearence and possibly with someone help around here install the shorty's myself.

Does anyone care to guess what hp gains Ill be getting and how much time it will get off of my 1/4 time?

 

Here is some install tips. For the JBA's


TOOLS & EQUIPMENT


1. Installing headers on a DOHC 4.6 is not especially difficult, but it can be time-consuming. A decent set of shop tools is required to successfully complete this job. Here is a recommended list of tools that should get you through the install:



- ¼ inch-drive Socket Set, metric and SAE.

- 3/8th inch-drive Socket Set, metric and SAE – including ½ inch deep dish socket.

- ½ inch-drive Socket Set, metric and SAE – including 5/8ths deep dish socket.

- 3/8th and ½ inch extensions and universal swivels.

- ½ inch open/closed wrench. A variety of lengths will make the job easier.

- 1 1/16th inch wrench (for the EGR tube)

- Small hammer

- Typical flat-head screwdrivers

- Floor jack and a piece of wood or other material that can safely lift the motor.

- Anti-seize compound for the new header bolts.



2. The best way to install these headers is by using a car lift. However, if this is not possible, they can be installed with the car on jack stands (we recommend lifting all 4 wheels). Safety is paramount! Use large-base jack stands that are capable of handling the weight of your car – DO NOT RELY ON A JACK!



PRE-INSTALLATION


1. Do not attempt to install these headers on a hot engine. Allow at least an hour for cool down.



2. Spray penetrating oil on all accessible nuts and bolts prior to assembly. This is something you may wish to do a day before the actual install, and once again when you get the car in the air and are waiting for it to cool down.



3. Disconnect the battery. You will be removing the starter, and the potential for shorting out the electrical system is high if the battery is still connected.



4. Remove the EGR tube from the back of the intake manifold. It is on the drivers side. This will make installing the EGR tube on the headers much easier. CAUTION! If the motor is hot, this tube will also be very hot. Be careful!



INSTALLATION




1. Raise the vehicle high enough to access the exhaust system.



2. Remove the H-pipe.



- Disconnect the 4 oxygen sensors on the H-pipe (no need to remove them). They are connected to the receivers by a tab that can be released by pushing down on the tab, and pulling the sensor out. A small flat-head screwdriver makes releasing the forward set much easier.

- Disconnect the H-pipe from the catback by removing the four nuts at the rear of the H-pipe.

- Making sure you have the H-pipe supported, remove the 4 bolts (2 on each side) that connect the H-pipe to the stock headers.

- Set the H-pipe aside.



3. Remove the starter. The bottom bolt is easily accessed. The top one is best removed by using a long ½” extension and universal swivel, and then accessing it from near the front of the motor. Set the starter aside. You can let it hang, but it is best to support the starter in order to prevent possible damage to the wiring. A ‘zip tie’ can be used to easily accomplish this.



4. Remove the passenger-side exhaust manifold.



- It may be easier to remove the stock manifold with the motor lifted a bit. You WILL have to lift the motor before you install the JBA Headers. To do this, remove the motor mount bolts, and carefully raise the engine with the jack and block of wood. You should only have to lift it about an inch.

- The manifold is held in place by 8 studs/nuts. Some nuts will come off the studs, others will pull the studs out with them.

- We supply enough bolts for all the mounting holes. However, you may wish to leave 2 of the stock studs in place in order to help position the header and gasket when you install them. Recommend leaving 2 studs near the front, as some of the mounting holes REQUIRE the use of the supplied bolts.

- Stock studs can be easily removed using a 5mm socket on the very end of the stud.

- Once all the nuts/studs are removed, the stock manifold will slide out via the back of the motor.





5. If you haven’t already done so, lift the motor about an inch, as described in step (3) above. Once again, safety is paramount. Also, be careful not to damage the oil pan or any other components when lifting the motor. Go slow, and make frequent checks to see if things are out of the way and not getting damaged.



6. The air conditioner line that runs near the exhaust manifolds need to be moved slightly, otherwise, the new headers will come too close to them and will cause damage. They are made of soft aluminum, and are easily relocated.



- Remove the small bolt that holds the retaining bracket.

- Gently bend the tube up.

- Turn the retaining bracket up, and put the bolt through the alternate hole, as shown in the diagram below



7. With the motor lifted, slide the new header into place.



- If you left a couple of studs in the head, put the gasket on the studs, then put the header over the gasket.

- If you did not leave any studs, line up the gasket and header over the appropriate bolt holes, and install a bolt on each end of the header.

- Make sure the bolts have anti-seize compound on them before installing!

- Some bolts can be easily accessed with sockets, some have to be tightened with wrenches. If a 3/8th drive socket will not fit, use a ¼ drive socket or a open/closed-end wrench.

- The two most difficult bolts are the top bolts in the back. They ARE accessible, but they will take time to tighten with an open-end wrench. A shortened wrench will speed the process.

- Ensure all the bolts/nuts are tight, and then re-install the starter.

- Let the motor back down, and re-install the motor mount nut.



8. On the driver’s side, disconnect the steering shaft and set it aside.



- The steering shaft is held on the rack by a single bolt. Remove that bolt, and the shaft will slide backwards off the rack mount. Then just move it out of the way.



9. Remove the EGR tube.



- Using a 1 1/6th wrench, remove the tube and set it aside.



10. Remove the oil filter.



11. Loosen the dipstick tube.



- Observe and note the route that the dipstick tube takes from the header to the oil pan before you actually start to loosen it.

- The tube is held in place by a single bolt with a bracket just below the head. Remove that bolt.

- The tube must then be gently tapped out of the oil pan with a small hammer.

- Do not completely remove the tube at this time, as it will be much easier to do once the stock exhaust manifold is unbolted.



12. Loosen/remove the driver’s-side header and dipstick.



- You need to remove ALL the studs on this side, as one of the holes in the JBA header requires the use of the supplied nut, AND the free movement on the header in order to install it.

- Once the bolts are out, slide the dipstick up through the motor mount and stock header. Set it aside.

- Remove the stock manifold from the vehicle.



13. Slide the new header into place – BUT DO NOT START ANY BOLTS!



- It is not necessary to have the engine raised for this side, though you may wish to do so.



14. Install the dipstick tube.



- The tube goes back in between the second and third header tube, and then down under the motor mount. It is MUCH easier to install the tube with the header unbolted, but in its approximate location.

- Tap the tube into the oil pan gently, and then re-attach the mounting bracket to the block.



15. Install the header bolts.



- You must start the bolt that is 3rd from the back on the bottom row FIRST. This is important, as there is not enough clearance to install this bolt once other bolts have been started. It is also much easier to install if you have free movement of the header.

- Make sure you have the gasket lined up, and install the bolt mentioned above. Once it is in, install the other 7 bolts, then tighten all 8 bolts. All are reasonably accessible.



16. Attach the EGR tube.



- It should be easy to do if you disconnected it from the manifold before starting the header installation.



17. Re-attach the steering shaft.



18. Re-install the oil filter.



19. Re-install the H-pipe.



- Use the supplied gasket on the passenger side.

- It is recommended that you use a small amount of high-temperature gasket sealer (O2 sensor safe) around the dome of the passenger-side header for added leak protection.

- Using the supplied nuts/bolts, fit the front of the H-pipe to the new headers.

- Using the stock nuts, attach the catback to the H-pipe.

- Re-attach the 4 oxygen sensors.



20. Re-connect the EGR tube on the back of the intake manifold.



- It may be easiest to take the EGR valve itself off the intake (2 readily accessible bolts), attach the tube to the EGR valve, and then put the valve back on the intake.



21. Re-check all fittings, lines, nuts, and bolts for tightness and clearance. Pay close attention to the A/C line you moved in step 6, and the steering shaft you re-attached in step 17.



22. Reconnect the battery.



23. Start the engine and let it warm up. Check for leaks.



24. Periodically check and retighten header bolts.

 

Did you get LT headers?

 

JBA's are shorties.

 

gotcha. for the trouble its worth, you might as well go with longtubes.

 

I think he is going with shorties because his Roush sits rather low. He might have clearance issues with longtubes.

 

Fought over the whole LT thing for awhile but I think in the long run it will be better to keep everything on this car close to original.Lts havent proven too get much more than this X pipe, JBA setup and are easier to install I would think.I have enough torque I need more ponies to get the trap speed up.I have to baby it out of the hole anyway,Im hoping for 10rwhp from just the X-pipe.More would be great!
MUDGUTS thankx for the install info.

 

I know the LT's have made proven 30+ HP gains on Bullitts, more for poweradder cars. Do a search on stangnet or corral to see what people are doing. I'm getting Mac LT's and the Shorty Pro Chamber when I get caught up from Christmas Debt... Don't write-off Long Tubes on Mod motored cars...

 

You will gain hp from LT on your bullitt. But it's not going to be 30 hp. Probably around 15+ hp. 4v cars have better breathing heads and they might see 15-20+.

My car made 297 at dyno day. There is no way in hell if I bolt on a set of LT's my car is going to gain 30hp.